I was experiencing some boost leaks, so I bought some new couplers and clamps, but I'm still having issues.
Part of this is because my hard pipes aren't really a perfect fit, since my V-mount intercooler setup is a custom hack job built from an FMIC.

It's really hard to get the new couplers on and position them so I actually get a solid seal.

Should I lubricate them first somehow? Obviously oil is bad, since it means you need extra clamp force to keep them from slipping. Maybe with alcohol?

Is there some sort of procedure to best install the clamps and couplers?

My intercooler piping also isn't perfectly round. At what point does that effect my seal?

 

Dish soap is my go to for things like that

 

I had considered that. I guess if it works for tires…

 

Is the issue getting them on? Keeping them on? Both?

Can you post pictures of your set up?

 

Fitment is everything ! if they are ar funny angles or joins are on a bend radius you will always struggle to seal them. I highley recomend a good 4/5 ply silicone so many suppliers these days, along with Murray clamps! there not cheap but seal fantastic and look cool. if fitment is really awful a cheat is to use Humped connectors as they have a little flex in the middle wich helps with movement and expansion. Also make sure you have the right size silicone for your pipe work a few mms can make all the difference it shouldnt be that hard if sized correctly.

 

Mostly the former. There’s kind of a sequence you have to follow, but I haven’t worked it out.

I will get some pics next time I go work on it. It’ll probably be fine now that I know to lubricate them with something that will dry and then not slip.

I need to get a deep socket for my new clamps… using a box wrench is a non-starter.

I also need to raise my tower bar up a bit, since there’s a clearance issue.

 

This pic shows how wonky the elbow fit is. In practice, it contacts the compressor outlet and tilts a bit, while leaving a small gap on the other side.

The problem is, I realized the couplings I bought are actually too big. I measured based on the outlet which is bigger than the pipes. D’oh.

Measure twice, order once… Explains why the clamps seemed oversized.

I can just keep using my existing couplers or build up the diameter of the pipe somehow… ideas?




Once I popped the tower bar off and lubricated the cold-side pipes with diluted Simple Green, they went on no problem. Not getting any leaks here now.

I also have a small leak from one of the extra vacuum nipples. I will replace the Teflon tape (probably over 10 years old) or block it off with JB weld, since I’m not using it.

 

Looks fine. Might need a 22.5* silicon elbow from the I/C to that trust elbow
plenty dish soap so you can wiggle and twist it all around if its that tight

 

I already spent too much on parts I probably didn’t actually need (new clamps and re-rounding the cold pipe probably would have sufficed), so I’m going to try using my old couplers as adapters for my new couplers. Hahaha.

 

HPS has a great selection of silicone couplers. With that said, ditch those T bolt clamps. T bolt clamps don't evenly compress a coupler when tightened like a standard worm style clamp. There are high quality worm gear clamps out there I would recommend.

 

Generally apply a touch of caliper compound used to assemble brakes to slide baked-on couplers on and off - silcone spray would probably do the same.

Agree the T bolts are less than ideal. Surprised how many times when you think they're good and a smoke test shows them leaking like a sieve.

 

My old couplers a bit too thick to work as adapters….

Any ideas how to build up my elbow’s OD by 5 mm?

Maybe aluminum tape?

 

You can use JB Weld or similar epoxy product on the aluminum elbow to build up its OD. For something like that, I'd choose the JB Weld product type that sets up/cures a little quicker, then sand it to shape. Use masking tape to keep it off parts of the pipe where you don't want it to go. Done this before on pipes that lacked beading on the ends and it works great.

 

why not quit screwing around and do whatever it takes to make it right?

some people just love trouble and problems it seems

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because ordering the right parts would cost me another $80... and a roll of aluminum tape is $3.

 

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^Don't waste your time, it won't work. Engine bay heat will turn the adhesive in your $3 roll of tape into a gooey mess that wont really stick to anything and the whole works will come apart...

The correct fix here is using the proper sized hard pipes with beaded ends and correspondingly proper sized silicone couplers to suit. If the alignment between the 2 hard pipes is not 100% perfect, using a silicon hump hose coupler in lieu of a straight coupler to join them might help.

The JB Weld work-around solution I gave you will work specifically for the case where the pipe & silicone couplers are both correctly matched size-wise, but where the beaded end of the pipe may be cut off or otherwise missing, compromising the seal. JB Weld may be a little more spendy than your $3 aluminum tape, but not by much and it will work as described.

 

it looks from the pic that the compressor could be clocked a little to make the pipes align better

 

I will have to get some study e-ring pliers to attempt this…

I know the heat will kill the adhesive, I just hope the pressure from the clamp and coupler will suffice to keep it reasonable boost tight. I figure another solution would be a tube of high temp RTV silicone around the hard pipe. JB Weld is too hard to undo.

Again, if it doesn’t work, I’ll just use my old couplers… in hindsight the issue was probably not even the couplers to begin with.

 

Why not return the incorrect parts?
I don’t see the problem.

 

No returns for parts that have been installed…