Does this work for a FC with the pfc the same way? Ive never had problems with mine. I have 10ohm 10W resistors on mine.

 

how much is a pfc with resistors compared to an e6k?
is it worth the lack of speed?
at what power level is the trade off with the pfc? what about he e6k?

 

I don't think that e6k was mentioned anwhere in there, I think he was talking about the difference in prices for the FJO setup. as he already has the PFC.


Smitter, it simply did not work and had a burned smell to it. vice messing with it and and damaging it we took it to a electronic repair shop up by Yokohama and they fixed it for like 7500 yen (70 USD give or take).

kenn

 

The type of resistor you use shouldn't make a huge difference (note that I said huge difference, there will be a manageable difference) in the way the car drives if you play around with the fuel map, lag ,and transition times. Yes, the injector driver would be ideal, but you can still iron out all the serious driveability problems of big injectors even with the 10W / 10 ohm resistors on a PFC. People have been doing it for years.

With my OEM 6ohm resistor pack I did a full recalc, rescaled my P rows, and basically redid my entire fuel map to compensate for the injectors, resistors, etc. It's not "perfect" but I don't have any scaling/transition problems or significant deviations in the intended fuel curve (such as serious rich or lean spots). When you switch to a secondary injector that is twice the size of the stock ones it's just going to take time to get it to run right, no matter what your setup (resistors, no resistors, no resistors + FJO driver).

Sometimes there's no silver bullet and you just have to do brute-force tuning: tedious datalogging and driving, adjustments based on a little bit of luck and guesswork (as opposed to having an Excel spreadsheet correction formula that should work yet doesn't 100% of the time). You may try a different lag or transition setting and then you have to play with the fuel map or something else. That's just the way it goes.

 

i'm using 3ohm with no problems

 

Today i tried my pfc in a friends car, same result, the fuel injector drivers must be fried. 4.4 impedance injectors and 3 0hm resistors, by formula a safe combination.

Are u more likely to fry the drivers redlining the car as opposed to granny shifting it @ 5000rpm?
i believe i damaged the ecu when hitting the rev limit @ 8500 rpm

 

as already stated, a driver box would be ideal and not a band-aid,
yes you can run without resistors as proven by many people over time,
but to answer the original question... try this online calculator for getting the right resistors in a system.

http://www.injector-rehab.com/kbse/resistor.htm

 

i'm shipping the ecus into apexi to see wtf is wrong, its gotta be the injector drivers. while i wait 3 months to get the results, i have purchased another pfc and am gonna pick up the fjo driver.

 

cool man so whens the car going to be on the road?

 

Got my new power fc today, plugged it in and just as i suspected the Car ripped like it did before. So this solidifies that my 2 power fcs both have fried secondary drivers. Running with 7.4 ohms of resistance.

I emailed Steve Kan to get his recomendations and he said that the power fc circuits can only with stand 1.5 amps of continuous load, Not 2.0 amps that many have told me. That explains it. That being said, he recommended a minimum resistance of 8.7 ohms.

 

I have seen different resistance listed for the Bosch injectors over the years.
If using resistors, be sure to measure the injectors first before going any further.

My Bosch 1600/light gray tops were slighlty over 5 ohms.

Below is something posted by another member.
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After much searching and head scratching, I think I finally deciphered this mess. I think that all 1600cc, or more exactly, 1680cc/160lb Bosch injectors are originally made for one purpose: to flow CNG on vehicles purposely made from the factory to run on this fuel. They were made for 2 engines, a 4.6L modular V8 from Ford that was fitted on their Crown Victorias and a 5.2L LA small block V8 from Chrysler that was fitted on their Ram vans. Thus we have 2 sets of part numbers, which are:


Ford injectors (should have a Ford logo embossed on them):

Bosch part # 0 280 150 839, Ford part # XL3E-C5A. Light green top (aqua).

Bosch part # 0 280 150 846, Ford part # F5TE-B5A. Light gray top (white).


Chrysler injectors (should have a Chrysler pentastar logo embossed on them):

Bosch part # 0 280 150 837. Brow top.

Bosch part # 0 280 150 843. Blue top. Both share Chrysler part # 53030518.
************************************************** *********************
I´ll rather not mix part numbers. It has been suggested on this forum (search around) that the Chrysler injectors have faster reaction times, and there is also talk about different resistance readings (i.e., ohms) between different part numbers. And there might even be volume differences, too, as the Chrysler ones were meant for a 5.2L engine and the Ford ones for a 4.6L. As I said, my rantings are not based on any factual evidence other than my 843s have 5.3-5.6 ohms resistance cold and they flowed at 141.2 and 142.8 at 18ms or roughly at 90%.
************************************************** *************
Don't forget the 0 280 150 846 that has a 4.7 ohm coil and white top.

 

10 ohm 10 watt here with no problems after 2 yrs.