It's a stock UIM with a K2RD fuel fuel rail.

 

Surely you aren't dynoing and tuning on old plugs?

 

Sorry for the confusion. I was running brand new NGK 9's all the way around. I was wondering if a different type of plug (heat/type) would help that.

Wow, I didn't know there would be this many issues with me posting a dyno sheet. I really only did it to show Andy what his car was capable of once tuned. There were a lot of people on his for sale post that were challenging his claims. I'm sorry if the numbers don't add up. I asked the person that was running the dyno if it was correct and he said the previous six cars that day were right on the money as far as previous runs and mods they had done since. If anything, they were concervative.

I'm really a single turbo newb, so I give most of the credit to Andy, Ito, and Karl (my tuner). If anything was not right, Karl would have told me. He's not one to let anything slide. I'm sure you could always call Phantom at the number at the top and ask them any questions.

Oops, sorry for the long post.

Shayde

 

hey man, nice numbers. you came up to salt lake to dyno? karls a pretty damn good tuner. suprised you went to phantom though... we have a mustang dyno here too, i thought thats where karl did most of his tuning.
i dyno'd on a mustang dyno and hit 426 at .80 bar. although it was right after i broke in the new pineapple streetport (which i haven't had any problems with btw, i guess i got lucky), so i think it was still a little loose. but i ended up with 409 after the day was through. that's running WAY rich (10.5-9.5afr) through the band. retuning with new aspec manifold at higher boost next month.

 

MARSHALL, thats exactly what i said

 

On the ignition break-up over 6.5k...

*IF* the AFR's are accurate, it might be too lean causing the misfires up high.
With the HKS Twin Power installed, the ignition should not have any problem igniting the combustion charge at only 10psi.
All brand new 9's should fire fine for only 10psi.
I say "IF", because we were having a lot of problems recently trying to get the Dyno Jet AFR "pump" to read correctly on a 20B NA.  Even with back-to-back runs, the AFR's were off by as much as 1.5 points!  I got so frustrated, I yanked the damn probe out.

I assume it has some kind of aftermarket intercooler set-up?


-Ted

 

I wasn't there that day. I was told is was corrected horsepower. The car had all the potential in the world to run 10.90 or better at over 120mph @low boost, but it always came down to one thing. Shifting, Vosko couldn't ever get a proper gear shift. In between shift points, it took him so long to shift gears in that car that all the momentum and miles per hour were totally lost. Every single time run,the same scenario. Vosko had to seriously granny shift and in the world of drag racing is you against the time clock, granny shifting takes everything away from MPH and elapse time no matter how much horsepower you have..

But I understand your point.. I made it comment about that to Vosko himself one time.

 

There's no doubt in the tuner(Karl) or even the engine builder( Ito) but when you show a dyno sheet with torque peaking as high as ~7100rpm in a turbo street-ported(assuming) 13B raises a red flag.

Dyno curves say alot and torque #'s also give a good indication of more or less amount of boost.

Once you hit dialed boost which is obvious you did by 4.5krpm it normally peaks out from that point to about 6.5krpm depending of porting but yours keeps climbing.......a clear indication of boost climbing with rpm.
Still impressive...congrats.

As far as Vosko......Well YES, he did have the "total package" !!! was a matter of more tunning a good driver and his car would have been deep in the 10's easily.
I even personally offered to give it a shot.

JD

 

ok couple of things my car did make those passes with the rwhp. honestly i am not the best driver yes the car could have done better obviously. 12.0 wasn't bad. my best run ever i twisted both the input and output shafts. my car also made 410rwhp and 459rwhp uncorrected. and the 459rwhp was holding it until it started breaking up due to 10.0 or below AFR. umm i have video of my FD on the dyno. i wish i could have done better but keep in mind when i was drag racing it i wasn't even legal to drink a beer! give a guy a break on top of all the other problems i had!

i never said i was an amazing driver but i am better than most.........all said and done i have drag raced better in my nissan than the FD....

oh yeah i got a ride in al's car when he first got it back.......he thought the clutch was slipping in fourth gear. NOPE he was BURNING TIRES at 80mph!!!!!

 

LOLOL I remember that. It felt like the clutch was slipping but it was the tirings breaking loose. After I dropped you off I saw Ito in his Rx8 going home LOL Vosko has broken everything in his car except his motor.

 

yeah i have no luck with any car.....i just deal with it and the cars breaking themselves and the bank

 

I was about to say the same thing inregards to the ignition.

What type/version of probe were you using? We had similar issues at the dyno i work at and found it was the box that the probe goes to was faulty. Got a the new one from dyno jet and it works like a charm now.

 

when i drag raced it i wasn't running the same tune as i was on they dyno. every time i drove the car i played with it trying to get it to run an even AFR but to be safe it was ridiculously rich the whole time so that it wouldn't blowup

 

vosko: just curious what your motor has for cranking compression

 

Just one recomendation. First of all nice numbers for only running 10 psi! Okay, I think that one should never ever lean out the car just a bit to get slightly better numbers because remember when you dyno your car it's in a controlled enviroment. Out on the highway or dragstrip a lot more air will be coming in so in reality you will be more lean than on the dyno, I usually calculate a .2 a/f difference. That's just what I believe in not only from somewhat common sense but also experience.

 

it had 150psi compression when it was built. i sold the engine to a friend since my car was totalled

 

my FD ran an in car FJO wideband the whole time

 

You guys think running 13 's before peak torque , 11.5 to 11.8 at peak torque and 12 to12.5 above that 'ill be a good idea with water injection ? max ignition advance in the peak torque region would be no more than 13 deg rising to about 17 deg by 9000 rpm .
When I get my boost spike problem under control , I am thinking about tuning for these figures , what ya think . I wouldn't mind making 450 @ 10 psi with my half bp.... hehehe.

 

Man, I can't believ these numbers. If these are corrcet than this is the most efficent engine I have ever seen. I try to figure out VE calculating backwards from HP.

At 10 PSI
The motor in question modified average stock ports

RPM RWP VE RWP VE
3000 114 .75 109 .7
4000 217 1.05 151 .73
5000 271 1.05 227 .88
6000 326 1.05 279 .9
7000 416 1.15 307 .85

Even Itos semi PP wouldn't be as effiecient as this streetport!!!

Ito semi pp
650 RWP at 30 PSI at 7000 rpms (assume) = VE 1.05

Ito street port as above
715 RWP at 30 psi at 7000 rpms = VW 1.15

Of course all these calculations assume same tuning and turbo and IC efficency. Still, I think I just expressed in numbers what most of you were thinking in your earlier post.

If these dyno and boost numbers are correct, I want the same ports that are in this engine. I was seriousely considering a semi pp but maybe not!!!

Thanks for listing
CW

 

Some tuners advise running the car rich, w/aggressive timing, run it lean w/conservative timing. I don’t have the first experience, or knowledge to have a definitive answer on which is better for a 13b. Since this tuner helped out on the rx7.com drag car, I would say it's safe to assume, he knows what he's doing, and expect big power from him.

I would like to see the timing maps.

Does this car have all the little tricks, i.e.. gasket matched manifolds, rounded tb butterflies, extrude honed exhaust manifold/turbo housing, heat wrap the full exhaust, and so on? I know it's a long shot, but maybe all these 2whp things added up?

 

10 psi and 415 rwhp? I just don't see it...

 

"

 

insane. I have a large street port and t78. maybe my engine isn't pulling your compression or something, but I'm quite sure its rather strong at 6k miles....

i pulled 408hp and 350 torque at 15 psi with terrible intake temps... I also ran the tuning rather conservative as I want to be able to beat on the thing. I know I could get more, but I just dont understand achieving that hp number and that torque number. What was the trick?

... no ignition breakup in my setup either...

 

I've never seen numbers like that on a t78 running only 10psi

 

Most likely several pounds of boost creep.