thats the ebay china one, hence the incorrect T4 flange ports.

 

Josh and anyone that is interested... The deal I can get for the Doc Race Manifold is $775 plus shipping and paypal fees. I looked on Doc Race sight and clicked buy manifold and shipping was $65 for the manifold. I updated the cart to 2 and shipping was the same..so might be cheaper on shipping if more than one was ordered. But basically...all in all... as of right now... I can save whomever $70 off the Doc Race manifold. If anyone is interested.

The next few pics are my manifold from Doc Race:





Disclaimer... I do not work for Doc Race nor have I tested mine yet. Just passing what little savings I can on to my fellow rotary friends. I do need to get my butt in the garage and start wrenching... however it seems so wrong to take apart a running RX7 PM me if you all have questions.

 

Look up gato performance. Got mine for under $500 shipped and if it's good enough for the Puerto Rican 7 and 8 second cars, it'll be fine for the rest of us. He will build it to your specs and if you want the turbo on the passengers seats, he'll build it that way.

 

I just weighed the hks cast... bathroom scale says 13.5 lbs. not sure how accurate that is, but it can't be far off.

 

This is the one we use in our kit and it works well. Nice thick/flat flanges.

http://www.rx7store.net/RX_7_Turbo_M...20manifold.htm

 

About the china/ebay/rotory-works one... really nothing wrong with them. Many people have used them with good results with years of use.

The issue is when they are welded the flange warps from heat. So people just slap them on and later say they have leaking problems....??? Well no ****?
The mating surface needs to be milled flat before it's installed. If not milled flat it also causes stress on the welds when torqued on. Then weld failure comes into play.

It's like when you take off a used head or cast exhaust manifold from a piston engine it should be milled before reinstalled if not it puts stress on the studs and may leak.

This is a touchy subject it always turns into a war on this forum because one person says they are junk then people take as the last word without personal use or digging for more info or do not understand the problem.

Is it the best?..um...no. Will it work? ..yes. They are good if you just want to make reasonable power without forking out alot of $.

 

That's actually lighter than the stainless manifolds I've seen! I guess the shorter length really helps with weight. I wonder if it flows as well?

 

I may be interested, as we do to make a joint purchase and cheaper to leave us?

I also called the attention the gato performance, which could recommend those two?

 

Gato will make SS manifolds for $650

 

Photo?

 

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/hk...n.%20vband.htm

+

http://shop.edoperformance.com/hks-t...1r-p-4653.html

 

Search Armando Melendez on Facebook to see some of his work.

 

Ok

 

is the hks cast one any good? ive been told it would fit my application(8 rew swap)

 

Full Race...Its perfect.

 

I personally dont like how the wastegates are on the far end by the turbo. Most people have them extremely close to the motor side like turblowns manifold.

 

Heres a pic of a gato performance manifold. Ive been running this for about 3 years now, no warping, no cracks, no issues. He's gotta be making them right if many of the 6 and 7 second cars from Puerto Rico only use his manifolds.

 

Full-race for me as well. Build quality is top notch...

 

Any of these fit an fc?

 

Mines and a-spec. compact, direct, simple. Probably the lightest of the bunch by looking at how much metal there is.

 

Does it leak?

 

no it doesn't leak. when I say by how much metal there is, its not wall thickness I am talking about, I am talking about how long the runner length is. the turbo sits right next to the engine and pretty far back.

 

I really like that one

 

does anyone have this one?

RX7 Turbo Manifold Neukin 13B 600HP Made in Indiana | eBay

 

I have their divided manifold its real nice