Hello,

I've perused this site for a while now, but I've finally locked down on a Chastise White FD.

I've started to work on aesthetics and getting the car to feel more like my own and I'm considering going down the path of single turbo.

I understand the topic is beaten to death and from what I've read there are a lot of options, however due to the volume of topics with various titles and content, I am having trouble sifting through the hundreds of non-related threads to find the answers I'm looking for.

I was wondering if anyone knew of a single setup that would be simply "bolt-on" with no tuning or upgrading required (i.e. injectors, fuel pump, management etc.)?

Are there any viable alternative options for management aside from PFC that are equally effective?

In the interim, I'll keep searching. Thanks!

 

You need to do a better job of searching, lol.

Going single is NOT a simple plug-n-play mod in an FD.

You'll need, at the least, an upgraded IC, a stand alone/tunable ECU, the single kit (turbo, manifold, DP, wastegate(s), etc.), a fuel pump able to flow enough fuel, and bigger injectors. (This would still be cutting some corners and overlooking supportive mods to get the best use of the single turbo.)

Doing a single conversion CORRECTLY is gunna cost a pretty penny, if finances are a limiting factor then just stick with the stock twins until you have a better understanding of how your car works.

 

The only way you can run a single turbo system without all the necessary upgrades is to keep it below the stock fuel system power levels( generally around 280rwhp). However I would still do a pump upgrade, rewire, and intercooler if coming near these levels. That being said you will need a single turbo system that will run around 7 psi of boost in near stock power levels. This can be hard to accomplish as most single turbo systems turbo manifolds aren't designed with proper waste-gate flow.

Our turbo manifolds are designed to run as low 3psi without boost creep;

Turblown Engineering FD3S RX-7 Twin Scroll Turbo Manifold

Here is the complete kit;

Turblown Engineering FD3S RX-7 Turbo System

I am definitely advocating you do bare minimums and not just a single turbo kit.

If you are looking for a much more advanced plug in ECU here is your answer;

Adaptronic Select Mazda RX-7 ECU

 

good inforation

 

Understood. There is just so much information on this site that I'm having trouble with that -- so it's good to know that it's not that viable to go single unless I'm willing to shell out.

Sorry about that, I just wanted a little clarity in regards to what I was reading as most the people that decided to go single turbo were looking to make much more power; so I didn't see anything that was related to what I personally wanted to know. Thank you for the information!

Thank you, this is information is very helpful. I'll be looking through your links. I appreciate you answering my question; I know a lot of people are fed up replying and beating a dead horse because they know the information themselves, however as I learn I think this gives me a good idea for what kind of budget to expect, so thank you for that!

 

I would do a g30-770 1.06 T4
360WHP on 14psi of boost on a factory mazda engine
Full boost 3000rpm and holds fairly well to 8000rpm (Peak power around 7100rpm)

On a ported engine would make 400-410rwhp on the same boost

 

9 years late to the party and nobody had that option back then

since you don’t trust USA dynos, here’s a lousy high compression, choked side exhaust port Renesis with G30-660 1.01 v-band in New Zealand

https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-p...-dyno-1154187/

now currently doing ~350 whp @ 13 psi and a 0.83 T3 turbine on street gasoline


but in addition to the time warp factor, maybe you forgot that your dyno reads a lot lower than to who and where you’re replying to. 🤔

and also might possibly want to think twice before mocking at and calling anyone else an idiot …
.

 

Think twice about mocking? You're the only one being an idiot and mocking.

Someone asked for a recommendation. I made it based on my results and experience. You based it YET AGAIN on someone else's 2nd hand information. Better yet it's a renesis which are completely different to a REW, but you wouldn't know that since you have not done any of the work yourself. Oh wait even better, its on E40. ......

Go crawl back under the rock you came out from, you're still giving out bad advice. nothings changed.

 

the question was back in 2013 and he hasn’t logged in from over 3 years ago, but glad we cleared that up
.

 

Cool story. you still giving advice based on your 0 experience ?
Why don't you go read some more dyno graphs and then pass it on to someone else as your own experience, better yet, make recommendations lol

 

No, not everyone is a social media harlot with the expressed intent of merchandising people.

You don’t know me from Adam, or with who, or what may be going on regarding me.

So flail on over this as much as you want. Because regardless of whatever you post, the truth of this situation is screaming from the roof top for everyone here to hear and see.

Yet, in all fairness you do good work. Just because I’m bold enough to question you on something rather than bowing down to kiss your rear doesn’t mean I don’t recognize or respect your work.

Try this on for size:

A foolish man never learns from his mistakes, and a smart man eventually learns from his, but a wise man learns from watching the mistakes of others.

I would add that a man who won’t admit to his mistake is even more foolish than the man who never learns from them.

have a nice day
.

 

I too will be shooting for probably 550-600rwp. Been looking at the sxe366 and apparently there is a new s366sx-R. Apparently the R has some kind of low friction spool according to their brochure. Have to do more research, but it's a T4 and either 64/84 or 68/88 sizing. Looks pretty interesting but I have to research more.

 

I haven’t seen anything other than this yet



.