[IMG]\\ENGINESONLINE-S\usb2.0 drive\share\turbo\p1010054.jpg[/IMG]

At last! I've collected parts for this conversion for over a year now, all I can do right now is slapping myself for not having done this sooner! The car feels like it's shed 400lb's or something, the response is amazing. I knew that the turbo would make good power, but the response is way better than I ever imagined, much better than my Non-seq setup!!!! Oh yeah, I'm still using hi-flow cats.

The power is as immediate as the factory sequential setup (noticed I said power, not boost)! Punching the throttle while cruising in 3rd at 3000 rpm generates immediate 3-4 psi of boost, and full boost (12 psi) comes on in a few 10th of a second! Remember that 60-1 compressor flows a lot of air at low pressure, even at 3-4 psi it still feels faster than 10 psi on the factory primary turbo! Anybody who says that they prefer the stock twin setup is HALLUCINATING, and have no idea what they are missing... Come see me for a ride!!!!

Other benefits of the single:
less heat, more vacuum while cruising (means a LOT less back pressure), much cleaner engine bay, turbo removal should be ~20 minutes.

I got started about 3 weeks ago, the engine had to be rebuilt so I figured that I could get the turbo kit fabricated at the same time, so needless to say, I've spent a good part of last three weeks in the garage. Did a street port on the intake and cleaned up the exhaust port, match ported all of the runners, and used Hurley 3mm seals.

As for the turbo "kit", it consists of :
HK$ cast manifold,
HK$ std. wastegate with 6lb spring,
-4 oil inlet lines with adaptor to factory line,
homemade oil return line,
V-band assembly from Diesel truck shop,
(special thanks to my friend Paul of K2RD who machined the turbine housing outlet for me)
The turbo: T4 with 60-1 compressor, .70 comp. housing P-trim exhaust wheel 1.0 A/R exhaust housing,
Homemade downpipe(made from scratch from a single 3" u-Bend, was a great welding practice as I had to TIG weld 7 joints) with 3" flange from Roadraceengineering,
Homemade turbo and manifold heatshields using thin alum. sheets and Thermotec wrap...
and lots of misc small parts...

Total cost for turbo kit: ~2100-2200

Was it worth it to build my own? Yes. Would I do it again? Not if you can buy a XS t04S kit(pretty much same turbo) for 2800 dollars.

TO DO:
route the WG dump back into the downpipe.
Tune use DIY WB (finished the board, building the monitor right now)
Dyno in the future

Problems:
Can't tighten the nut that's right underneth the turbo (there are four bolts/stud needed to bolt the turbo onto the exh. manifold, this is the one on top and closer to the front of the car). It's just too tight, can't get anything in there, so there's a little exhaust leak... Any ideas?

[IMG]\\ENGINESONLINE-S\usb2.0 drive\share\turbo\p1010055.jpg[/IMG]

 

More pics:

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BTW, the nut that i can't tighten is on the top right stud of the manifold flange, there's just no room once the turbo is on there

[IMG]\\ENGINESONLINE-S\usb2.0 drive\share\turbo\P1010051.JPG[/IMG]

 

Oh yeah, my porting job helps the spool, I think.

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[IMG]\\ENGINESONLINE-S\usb2.0 drive\share\turbo\P1010026.JPG[/IMG]

 

Congratualtions! I was a sequential hold-out, too, but I eventually bought a single and have been very happy with the driving experience.

On my RX6 kit, I got a tip to install the turbine housing on the manifold first and then bolt the rest of the turbo into the turbine housing. It works great for the RX6, perhaps it will work for you as well.

-Max

 

man, this sucks. I can't see any of the pictures.

 

thanks max! I'll try that later!

Fred

 

Still can't view them from work. Send them over via email fred. Thanks..

 

Hey I am in the bay area... and would like to take a test ride. ='] I'll pm you my ph #. I am thinking of going single but have never had a chance to take a ride in one.
Thanks
-m

 

pics are not showing up (I was referring them locally, thinking that they'll be uploaded or something, duh!), so I'll shrink them in photoshop and then attach them

 

here's the turbo and downpipe

 

here's the manifold

 

here's the turbo in car

 

turbo running in car

 

The exhaust port, I think this really helped the turbo spool

 

the last pic (phewwww), intake port

 

Itoen, you're more than welcome to come for a ride, just give me a couple of weeks to break it in and tune it with the wideband.

 

Can't beat my FCD Foolz. hehehe

 

 

Just took the car to Vishutuning in pleasanton, CA this Sat for Dyno tuning. I went there because they had a $50 dyno special, although I would've preferred a Dynojet over the Dyno Dynamics Dyno they have. Since Dynoject is more common and posts much higher numbers than Dyno Dynamics', i.e. a stock WRX posts ~162 on Dyno Dynamics, and ~190 on DynoJet.

To make a long story short, running 12-13 psi, my 1st run yielded a 344.X hp at the wheels (I didn't get a print out for it though), and my 3rd run was at 338.8 when the car was hotter. Also Shiv, who was operating my car on the dyno lifted at ~7300 rpm, when my hp curve was still rising. He said that the same number would translate into ~380-390 hp on the DynoJet. The air fuel ratio was conservative at 10.X through out most of the band. So, I'm pretty happy with the numbers. Hopefull I'll dyno it again on the dynoject after I upgrade the ignition (still stock).

I'll try to post picture of the dyno chart later

 

Sounds like pretty good numbers to me.
If the equivalent dynojet reading is 380-390 rwhp @ 12-13psi with your 60-1 T4 turbocharger, I think it's pretty good.
Especially running a fairly rich air/fuel ratio like that, you can lean it out a bit and make more power without risking detonation.

 

Hey Fred, first congratulations, you've been working on this for a while Any chance I could borrow your O2 sensor(5 wire for a day? I don't seem to be able to find one for my DIY WB(prebuilt), except parts bin for 300.00 I'm all hooked up, just waiting on someone to get the sensor in stock. Where did you get yours? PM me, or call me. cell 707-696-2705. thanks, Carl Byck

 

On my kit I installed the whole turbo onto the manifold and tightened the nuts while it was out of the car. Then I installed the manifold/turbo as one piece onto the motor.

Matt

 

Thanks for the tip. I actually got the problem solved a little while ago. I used the smallest 14mm wrench I could find, and there's just enough room to operate it on that nut, with lots of patiences. Also, the alignment of the downpipe is very important for preventing leaks (since the V-band is used, it's easy to misalign ever so slightly, causing exhaust leak).