garry-rx7

iTrader: (5)

Tommorow, I'll bring my stainless steal pipe and flange at the weld shop, but the guy ask me to draw on a piece of paper the lenghts, angles to do it.

I can't bring the car to him because the engine isn't in the car yet... (FD3S)

I want it bolt or so.

thanks for your help.

Jason

iTrader: (5)

That wont work. A lot depends on the manifold and turbo you are using. No way to guess the lengths correctly.

trainwreck517

iTrader: (1)

I agree with Jason. Best bet would be to get the engine / turbo setup into the car. Tow the car out to the shop and have them make the downpipe. That way it will fit perfect.

fiz-e

iTrader: (19)

The only way to do this without taking the car to the shop is going in multiple steps. like have the turboside flange welded on. then take the pipe home. put it on the car! see where the pipe ends measure cut, align then take back and tack it then bring it back. its a lot of back and forth.

What he wanted you to do is pretty much draw out the template with sizes... but yeah man, without the car and turbo on it will never just bolt up! every turbo and manifold sit slightly differently.

What I am doing is I got a premade DP. I am cutting it . connecting both sides and then getting a extension piece in the middle to connect it!

If you don't got the set up on the car... you are going to waste time and money!

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Here is what I did a few years ago when I didn't have access to any welder and I didn't want to tow the car. I bought all the pieces and cut them myself. I had the exhaust shop slightly flare each end. Then I duct taped them together--it would be much easier if you could tack weld them because they won't move.

It started out like this



then after a bunch of trips to the muffler shop it looked like this



which BARELY fit, and even then it was only because I could squeeze it in there with a flexpipe. once I had that bolted up and confirmed the engine was running I took it to the shop and they fixed that one weld. then they did the wastegate recirculation.



In the end it worked out and I have had that downpipe for over two years without a single leak. This was a very time consuming process and it only worked for me because I made half a dozen trips. I knew the guys at the muffler shop and they were willing to be patient. If my driveway at the time weren't on a steep hill I would have never gone this route. The only reason I didn't tow it was because it would not be feasible to put it back in the garage if something went wrong when I started up my new rebuild. I would not go this route if I were you. Tow it to the shop.

The thing you have to keep in mind is that clearances are very very tight and everything has to be perfect. If you can't tack weld it together it will shift slightly or the marks won't be perfect and then it won't work. You MIGHT be able to pull off an open downpipe to limp it over there, but no matter what somebody is going to have to fix the exhaust when it is on the car.