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I haven't done a TII TB, just went straight to the FD TB/UIM for that extra 30hp.
I am too lazy to work on my own cars, so doing work for others is right out.
But if you want an excuse for why your project isn't done yet, send your parts over to me and I will guarantee to not get them back to you
hahaha what an awesome quote. I intended to just lurk this thread, after all I have nothing to contribute as this is all beyond my current comprehension level. But, that just made me laugh out loud.
One must think outside the box.
Take off your TB and learn how it works.
...well, i know how to modify a tb streamlined, i was referring to the second paragraph, and the point about modifying the tb to be symmetrical - i couldn't see any major unsymmetrical area there...
I'm also not the only one who has had problems taking the screws out... i used "tons" of WD40 and other things, but the screws were stuck so i had to leave them in place...doesn't help if you damage the head of the screws...
...well, i know how to modify a tb streamlined, i was referring to the second paragraph, and the point about modifying the tb to be symmetrical - i couldn't see any major unsymmetrical area there...
I'm also not the only one who has had problems taking the screws out... i used "tons" of WD40 and other things, but the screws were stuck so i had to leave them in place...doesn't help if you damage the head of the screws...
They're not Phillips screws, which is why they're always damaged. They're JIS screws, which isn't technically even a standard any more. Vessel is the only company that makes a JIS driver.
Been a very long time since I touched that area or the secondaries. Seem to remember they're like a lot of butterflies...peened over on the threaded side....in which case, I'd have used a carbide burr to take the edge off.
If you remove the hot wax rod unit, the TB can be modified to be symmetrical which reduces turbulence along with grinding on other parts of the opening.
...just have to ask about that modification...as it hot wax Rod is ecternal (i also cut away that rod for simplification), i can't see how it affects the internal symmetrie...perhaps i'm missing anything?
Also wondering, even this is just because i want to simplify the tb, if ever anyone modified that external shaft with that cruise control stuff...should be possible to cut that away and cut the thread on the shaft a bit more...
...well, i know how to modify a tb streamlined, i was referring to the second paragraph, and the point about modifying the tb to be symmetrical - i couldn't see any major unsymmetrical area there...
I'm also not the only one who has had problems taking the screws out... i used "tons" of WD40 and other things, but the screws were stuck so i had to leave them in place...doesn't help if you damage the head of the screws...
Look on the right side where the hot water goes through the TB and out the hot wax rod unit.
More flat area there on the right than the left. DOH 1.
The very soft throttle plate screws will strip the heads sometimes when trying to remove them. Outside the box includes drilling out the screws with a small drill bit so that they can be removed. DOH 2.
On all the FD TBs that I have seen, the top 2 secondary throttle plates do not open 100% but the primary does. You can fix it that the 2 open 100% parallel to air flow and the primary slightly over rotates but less than the stock 2 underotating.
You can fix it that the 2 open 100% parallel to air flow and the primary slightly over rotates but less than the stock 2 underotating.
You can just make a new link between the primary and 2ndary throttle shafts that is the correct length so all the plates open 100%- that is what I did.
You can see it (brass) in the pic on the 1st page.
You can fix it that the 2 open 100% parallel to air flow and the primary slightly over rotates but less than the stock 2 underotating.
You can just make a new link between the primary and 2ndary throttle shafts that is the correct length so all the plates open 100%- that is what I did.
You can see it (brass) in the pic on the 1st page.
Yes that will work fine for a car which still uses the stock vacuum secondary throttles. But not good if they were removed.
Still looks like the primary is over rotated like mine.
The TB is another Mazda screw up!
Last edited by cewrx7r1; Dec 29, 2016 at 10:24 PM.
You can fix it that the 2 open 100% parallel to air flow and the primary slightly over rotates but less than the stock 2 underotating.
You can just make a new link between the primary and 2ndary throttle shafts that is the correct length so all the plates open 100%- that is what I did.
You can see it (brass) in the pic on the 1st page.
I like that link. Any better pics, just for curiosity? I just bent a "hump" in the middle of the stock link to take up the slack.
...where did you get the adapter to the uim from? Is that the ffe adapter?
And how did the change the driveability, idling and so on? I think the GM DBW tb doesn't have that bypass and no adjustment screw...?
His looks just like mine, so I'd imagine it's also the FFE adapter. Very nice little piece, smooth transition. All adjustments must be done via the ECU. Mine was through AEM, and while the setup was supposed to be simple using the wizard, it was a nightmare. Luckily the boys at AEM sorted it out for me.
...ok, i'm going with the Haltech Elite, hopefully its not that difficult. Which foot pedal do you have? I've been told any will work but in best case theres one that is a bit easier to install, ideally
plug and play...
...ok, i'm going with the Haltech Elite, hopefully its not that difficult. Which foot pedal do you have? I've been told any will work but in best case theres one that is a bit easier to install, ideally
plug and play...
I have a very unique setup, mid mounted 13b with a Subaru transmission. I used a lot of Subaru parts and had a DBW pedal to use. As long as you can find the pinouts, any pedal will work fine. My issues were between the software and TB. When I selected that TB in the wizard it used settings from a BMW TB and it made god awful noises before shutting itself down. So it had to be setup manually using which was a little over my head. Again AEM tech support took good care of me, exchanging half a dozen logs in one day.
The whole reason I went the DBW was for more idle control and to see what it was like.
Been very happy with it to date. but still need to correct some minor things in the tune.
