smg944

iTrader: (34)

trying to decide on a exhaust a/r for a t04z. i know the .84 will help my spool up more but i dont want to fall off up top, i want all the way to 8k. from some of the dynos i have seen the .81 or .84 match well with a 66-67mm comp. now if i get the 1.00 i will lose some spool time, but the top end look really close in these dynos i have come across. the .84 looks like it will be enough. here is a link to the dyno page where some sheets are.

http://71.102.125.165/graph.php?car9...1&SUBMIT=GRAPH

dubulup

Well...I keeping hearing/reading both sides of the fence.

Go .84...the top end you'll lose will be minimal, can't even feel seat of the pants.

Go 1.00...the spool you'll lose will be minimal, can't even feel seat of the pants.

Then if RICE RACING sees this thread...

Go 1.32 or go home.

dougiepants

1.15 or 1.32 or buy another turbo

finnicky7

1.00 is plenty O'boost, I'd like to match my 1.00 up against one of these 1.15/1.32. I say 1.00 is best bang for your buck.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Lol, I'm glad you see the same thing I do We need to get together and compare notes one day. lol

dougiepants

1.00, 1.15, & 1.32 all cost the same when purchasing the turbo lol

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

yeah but it's not about the cost. It's about what's best for that particular turbo / engine combo.

RICE RACING

Get a 1.32, ditch your tubular header and make a sheet metal manifold that mounts the turbo as close as is physicaly possible to the exhaust ports. No runners no restrictions, no heat losses or pipe losses feeding up the turbine housing.

Its the way to make maximum power and have best responce and allow you to use the biggest housings.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

pics?

smg944

iTrader: (34)

what about an hks log mani, thats really short. also i read a big thread on how the longer runners increse spool etc.. not true?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

well what I think he is talking about is like a box with an exhaust flange on one side and the t4 on the other side. this would get rid of small little runners and go to alot more exhaust getting to the turbo thus spooling it up faster. since the box would be so short the velocity would be very high as well.

edit: at least that what I think he is talking about, lol.

7_rocket

iTrader: (6)

selling you gt35?

smg944

iTrader: (34)

yes i have it up for sale here is the link..

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=645116

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

Get the 1.0 if you want just plain good all around performance. Turbine selection has a lot to do with the system as a whole. Ie ports, manifold, boost control, etc. Just throwing a 1.32 on anything is stupid so would just throwing a .84 on anything. Guys on this board are making 500+whp on .84's with low 20's in boost. If that is enough power for you then be happy with that and not lose your bottom end punch if this is a street driven car. By street driven I mean used regularly. Not once every so often on a nice day. That is a whole different type of application at that point. The 1.0 will lose minimal to it on bottom but stay in it longer. Look at what you have, how you plan to use it, and go from there.

-S-

signofinfinity

Pete.... define that manifold thingy you discussed.... you lost me there!!!

you mean a boxed like exhaust plemium???

hmmmm you sure got my attention......again!!!!

smg944

iTrader: (34)

i want 450whp on pump gas with a re-circulating wg to cut the noise down some. i dont mind a slight increase in lag. a buddy of mine has a t66 bb with a .96 a/r and he has a very nice power band from 5-8k rpm. also he is on stock ports. im figureing with my steetport i would have a nice range from 4.5-8k rpm.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

You're figuring correctly. It may come on even sooner than that depending on setup.

-S-

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

ok so when do you suggest a 1.32? And what are the supporting mods you would suggest. I mean you said "just throwing a 1.32 on anything is stupid" so what are you saying there. Sorry just trying to get some info on when to put a 1.32 on a turbo. Thanks.

finnicky7

If your vehicle has 18 wheels and a bulldog as a hood ornament. J/K

As for the 1.00 a/r I saw full boost below 5k and thats 25psi.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

Haven’t you figured it out yet??? Turbine A/R is proportionate to your ***** size!!!

At least that’s what one is lead to believe if you’re in this forum enough. Recommending a huge A/R to someone who is only looking for 400 ish is stupid. 400-ish is obtainable with much smaller turbines that give a broader more useable power band (and MUCH more pleasurable to drive). Not a laggy On/Off switch. Not everyone lives were there’s nothing but straight ******* roads or spends any amount of time on the drag strip. Be realistic about your cars folks, in reality your car's life is 1000 to 4500 RPM carting your assess around. Even aggressive ******* drivers (like me) still may hit redline maybe 10 times a day, but I still spend 85% of the time driving like a normal human. Now if your after the absolute most power and your cars' life will spend more then 40% of its life 5K RPM's and higher, then get the big turbo and match it with a big turbine wheel and medium to large turbine housing, but don’t mismatch the bitch with a small turbine wheel and big *** turbine housing thinking it'll give great top end (lag with minimal gain up top). A street car doesn't need all top end, even if you *think* you'll need it to be fast. I bet the majority of guys that have yet completed there cars and as the build goes they get greedy and more greedier for power, but have you guys been in a 350~400 hp FC or FD yet? It’s ridiculously fast!!! Normal pump gas and 15 psi is all you need to shredded tire goodness and still be able to drive the thing at light loads without annoying ******* bucking and misfire from bridge ports or waiting around for some torque to finally kick in from either too big tubine A/R's or too big over sized for the application compressors or BOTH. Its nice to be able to run an auto cross track, kick a couple Z06 and Vipers assess on the street, then go the track and lay down a low 11 or high 10 with PUMP gas and still drive home and get over 20 MPG. All mentioned didn't need half bridges or HUGE turbos with ridiculous RACE sized turbine A/R's lag MONSTERS with no linear power curves, simple On/Off switch. They’re great for going straight and showing off by lying tire pounding smokey burnouts, but that’s about it. Ever try to modulate a car like this going through a corner on the very edge of adhesion? It’s ******* scary. Well an attitude seems to be, slow in/hella fast out. To each their own I suppose. I prefer going in fast and graceful then exiting the same picking fast lines and sticking to them. One with the car, not a ******* redneck trying to tame a wild bull.

Hondahater, don't you have a HKS log manifold? The 1.32 not to mention 1.00 and 1.15 come DIVDED ONLY, so forget about using them unless you plan on getting a nicer tubular mani. The only other size bigger in an open valute is a massive 1.71 A/R. WOW, I bet I just gave some guys who may be lacking in one department of their life an idea to make it seem not so lacking!!! :O

It's all in what the purpose of the car will be used for, not the size of your ahumm or trying to maximize wide open throttle at the last 1000 RPM of the power band (unless that IS your main goal). Street cars don't need to match pre turbine exhaust pressures with intake. it would be super sweet if they did, but as of now technology hasn’t gotten us there unless we're willing to sacrifice response to reach the intake and exhaust equal pressure phenomenon (called crossover).

Sorry for the rant....

BTW, this entire post of mine was just a "in general rant" about turbo's. It's totally off topic except for were I mentioned Hondahater specificaly. So theres no need to waste your finger energy typing in some obvious factoid that "Handahater is looking to make more then 400 hp..." and so on. Like I said, the post was a off yet on topic rant in general, not specific to certain people or cars or set ups. I just see a lot of bad info or people doing things for the wrong reasons. But if one of your main reasons is touting about the size of your turbo/ports/turbine/exhaust IS your major concern, then by all means go ahead, just don't pretend it isn't a factor for you.

~Mike..............

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Ok well now I know your oppinion, lol. I am building my car more toward a 1/4 mile track car. This is by no means a daily driver and am in no way going to kid myself with delusions of grandeur about having both a track car and a street car. I do appreciate your oppinion and will think about that while I'm trying out differant turbine combos for best track times. No my car is not an extension of my umm... man hood. This is mearly a past time that I very much enjoy and am starting to really enjoy it more and more everytime I go to the track. I just wish I could get straight answers on this forum instead of 100 differant people saying that thier way is the best way. Obviously there has to be someone here that has experiance enough to say well your .96 is going to have great results because it's going to spool quickly on your hbp and the 1.32 will just be too laggy however it seems like alot of people don't know the differant combos and what the effect will be on track time etc... I've talked to a few people that take gt45's and have them machined to 80mm and are running 1.32 hotsides with p trim wheel. These people run very fast in the quarter but of course they are running 45-50psi of boost. Maybe a 1.32 is better for more boost? I'm only shooting for 25 or so psi. Maybe the smaller is better for less boost. I just don't know the answers to my questions so I don't mind asking them. I guess I'm used to talking to people that when I ask them a question it's been done before and they will either tell me yes this is good or no that will not work. However I guess when you get on a public forum you will have tons of people saying both things so you just have to make a gut call and go from there or experiance both for yourself and that is obviously what I'm going to have to do. Your point on mismatching your turbo, turbine wheel and exhaust housing though is very interesting and maybe the guys with the 1.32 have a much larger turbine wheel than a ptrim. Anyways thanks for your rant but again I'm not trying ot flash my epenis around etc... just looking for good useable info.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

I think your misstaking my post. It wasent about your manhood lol, but more or less how its suggested that real men run big turbine A/R's, its been said more then just a couple times now withen this and other forums. Big A/R's are for big horse power, if your looking for big power, get a big A/R turbine, its that simple. Keep in mind though, theres guys runnign .81 P-trim turbines making in excess of 500 RWHP @ less then 24 psi of boost. With the bigger A/R will there be more power??? Of corse, how much i can't say for sure, anythign from 20 to 40 HP at the wheels most likely. You'll most likely encounter over 1000 RPM differance in full boost between a .81 and 1.32 turbine also. Its a bigger differance in power to higher the boost you run and the more power you make, were the smaller .8X turbines make power up to 400 and sometimes even 500, over that its time to go bigger on the A/R and OR tubrine wheel too. Your turbine wheel should always be matched to the compressor wheel diametrs and flow rates. you can get away runnign a slightly smaller turbine then compressor wheel for better response if done with moderation (EX: going to a tiny O trim isn't going to help response, it'll hurt it were going from the proper Q trim down a size to P will help spool in the lower HP numbers, if higher numbers is the goal, should stick to the matching Q trim as its response will probly be better wiht a mid sized A/R then the p trim with the BIG A/R. Reason being is there better matched {the compressor and Q trim} in overall size and flow). PHEW... again wiht the long post damn.......though these numbers aren't exact, I'm not just throwing them out there for you. Consider it more or less a educated guess. Another thing to keep in mind. once your in the low 11's club, it takes a **** load of more power to get into the low 10's club. Keep that in mind, it'll be like 100 RWHP or more differance going from low 11's ~10's to low 10's ~ 9's. So its up to you in that chase for power. Personally I like having a well round car that runs 11's with horrible driving and high 10's with a good footer behind the wheel and still have mid RPM torque to detroy V8's I might encounter on the way home. Now for 100 or so more HP the car is no longer fun except that occasional track night. If you spend a lot of time at the track, go for it man. Your HKS logger is now junk, go full tubular, big A/R, half bridged, back halfed, and caged! Although it would have been more optimal to go with a larger turbine trim for your current goals, going with a larger A/R will still work, just not as effectivly with that large of a compressor.

~Mike............

Comitatus

iTrader: (7)

I run a HBP with a Garrett TO4R P trim and a 1.32 housing. I built my setup correctly...and matched the turbo and housing up to my motor.

Those of you who claim lag with a HBP and a 1.32 housing have not ridden in one...in fact, come visit me and I'll take you for a ride...then lets see what you think.

I only run 12 psi on my setup on the street, and it's a monster. I still have only cracked 18 psi on Race Gas, and I honestly can't express to you how fast the car is. There is no need to run big boost on a properly setup motor/turbo combination.

I agree with a lot of statements made in this post so far, but the simple fact is, just match your turbo with your motor setup and the goal of your car. You won't be disappointed. Period.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Ahhh ok I see what you where saying now. I appreciate the input, it's a big help. I don't think I'll go all out puerto rican style but you never know. I'm looking for something like what you mentioned 11 second as a beginner driver 10's if I start really devoting myself to some good track time and then still have enough power and torque if I do drive it on the street to kill the occational v8. but then again I may get into this thing and get the ford 9" cage etc... I guess I'll keep my 1.32 for later when I deside to go to an 80mm turbo and for now keep the .96 and just run with that. Again I do appreciate your help it's helped me deside where I want to go from here. I'm not looking at changing my manifold anytime soon so I was just going to run the 1.32 on it and see how it went but you are right I think if I did go with the devided stuff I would then up my manifold to a nice tubular one.


what manifold are you using? When do you start to see boost? When do you get full boost? Any 1/4 mile times?

antnicuk

i run an FC series 5 block with low comp series 4 rotors with a small street port on the exhaust and inlet, a gt35/40 on a T4 flange, P trim 0.96 turbine and 0.72 cold side.

The car starts making positive boost at 2k rpm and full bost of 17 - 18 psi at about 3800 - 4000 but it pulls really hard as the boost builds. I see 460 rwhp and 330 rwflbs. Its great on the track and pulls nicely from low down. Its still pretty good on the 1/4, i have run 12.2 at 120 on street tires on the one occassion i took it to the strip.

As per my rebuild post, i have ported the new engine a lot more on the inlet, the runners and the exhaust and using FD rotors, i have just swapped the Turbine housing for a 1.15 p trim, it should be running in the next couple of weeks so i will be able to give you some comparison figures. Its a bit of guess work but i hope it will work.

BTW, I use a HKS cast manifold for an FD