Chris Ng

I'm jsut about finished my td07-25g install into my FC.. however, I do have some concerns regarding hoses and heat from the turbo...

After bolting up the turbo to the block, I've noticed that the exhaust manifold runners are quite close to the lower rad hose... I'm afraid that heat from the manifold will cause the hose to fail (stainless manifold if that makes a diffrence).. Ayone have any suggestions as to what I could do to protect the rad hose (Or should I not even worry?) .. are there any specific wraps I could use on the hose to protect it from the heat? should I wrap the exhaust manifold itself?

My other concern is with the wastegate lines.. the lines from the wastegate are going to be awfully close the downpipe.. The fittings that came with the tial wastegate were barbed fittings.. I had a look at some braided vac lines to try and protect the hoses, however the walls were very stiff on the hoses and I doubt I would be able to securely clamp them down onto the barbed fittings... are there any specific hoses I sohuld be useing for the wastegate? are there any wraps or any technniques I can use to protect the hoses from melting??

Thanks for any suggestion guys..

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

Here is what I used:

http://www.designengineering.com/pro...sp?m=sc&cid=10



And some of this:

http://www.designengineering.com/pro...sp?m=sp&pid=30



I don't know how many good performance shops you guys have in Calgary, but you can order all these products at Crappy Tire through Keystone (ok), or through DriverFx.ca (pretty good).

sillbeer

Check this out. http://www.paragonperformance.com/Fire%20Sleeve.html We use it on the fuel lines on the f16.

-Destin

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

You can buy sleeving from www.vitek.com for the radiator hoses. The drawbacks are they only come in white and are pricey. I think they are good for about 1200 degrees.

setzep

Kind of off topic but do you have any pic's of your TD07? I'd like to compare to my TD07.
Thanks

setzep

Kind of off topic but do you have any pic's of your TD07? I'd like to compare to my TD07.
Thanks

Chris Ng

sure:

Compressor


exhaust side


buncha shots of the manifold




Back on topic.. I purchased some of the insulating tape that you guys mentioned.. wrapped the rad hoses and vac hoses with it.. looks like it will do the job.. hopefully the adhesive will not come off.. I'm thinking I'll use some safety wire to keep them together....

thanks for your suggestions

stevecod

the thermo heat wrap will do the job well. if you want to look all fancy or hardcore you can get the earl's flame guard but they are pricy. i know cause i have them.

setzep

Thanks for the pics of the turbo. Even has the same turbine housing as mine. Have you run the turbo yet? Any boost creep? I ended up putting my wastegate on the turbine housing itself to get rid of my creep.

Chris Ng

Hopefully the car will be back on the road this weekend.. all the parts that needed to be welded are done.. all the misc parts put together.. so it's just a matter of bolting everything back up and crossing my fingers.. after that, re-working my fuel/timing maps and praying I don't blow things up

I read the thread concerning your creep issues.. I am hopefully not going to encounter the same thing..I am however running a smaller 40mm tial than your 46mm...
The turbo is going on my 13bt with a moderate streetport..

what are your impressions with this turbo? how is the spool? and what kind of power are you running? I'm moving from a hybrid turbo which made 270ish rwhp @ 1 bar on a mustang dyno.. I would see full boost in 3rd gear by about 3500rpm with the old turbo, however would find that boost and power dropped off by 5500 rpm.. the wastegate has a 8.5lb spring.. I'm thikning of running 10ish psi for low boost and 14-15max high boost... not too sure if my current fuel pump will handle is all though.. might be time to upgrade it.. current fuel setup includes 720 primaries, 1600 secondaries, malpassi FPR and an FD fuel pump.. I am unsure if the FD fuel pump will flow enough for 14lbs with this turbo...

Cheers!

screw all that expensive stuff...

goto mcmaster.com and look up sleeve.

Here are some examples:

Heat-Reflective Fiberglass Wrap-Around Sleeving
Protect your critical components with this heat-reflective sleeving. Made of woven fiberglass base fabric and laminated with aluminum foil, it withstands ambient heat up to 392° F as well as radiant heat. It also offers good fluid and chemical resistance and maintains a circular profile when flexed. The wrap-around design is easy to install over existing wires. Temperature range is 40° to 392° F. Meets ASTM D350 requirements as self extinguishing. Sold in 3-ft. lengths.
ID Bundle Dia. Range Each

3/8" 5/16"to 3/8" 2627K31 $8.43
1/2" 3/8"to 1/2" 2627K32 9.97
3/4" 1/2"to 3/4" 2627K33 11.33
1" 3/4"to1" 2627K34 12.60

High-Temperature Braided PEEK Mesh Sleeving
Perfect for use in extreme and hostile environmental conditions as hot as 500° F. This tough PEEK (polyetheretherketone) sleeving is lightweight and highly flexible, and the open weave construction allows sleeving to expand to fit different applications and sizes while remaining resistant to trapping water, heat, and humidity. Great for protecting cable assemblies, hose, and wire harnesses from abrasion, chafing, and cutting. Color is black. Temperature range is -94° to +500° F. Meets UL VW-1 for flame retardation. Bundle Dia. Coil Per Foot
ID Range Lg. Partial Coil Full Coil


1/4" 1/4"to 5/8" 100 ft. 2656K11 $1.64 $1.37
1/2" 1/2"to 7/8" 50 ft. 2656K12 5.00 4.17
3/4" 3/4"to1 3/8" 50 ft. 2656K13 7.25 6.04
1 1/4" 1 1/4"to1 3/4" 50 ft. 2656K14 10.30 8.58
1 3/4" 1 3/4"to2 1/4" 50 ft. 2656K15 14.98 12.48
2 1/2" 2 1/2"to3" 50 ft. 2656K16 17.80 14.83

PEEK is good stuff it doesn't degrade in radiation as well.

Fiberglass Sleeving

1000° F Sleeve
Unlike plastic-based sleeving, fiberglass won't shrink or swell, which can cause gaps in the thermal barriers. Cut with scissors.
1000° F Fiberglass Sleeving- This economical braided sleeving is good for general heat protection. Resists alkalies, water, solvents, and oil. Temperature range is -100° to +1000° F. Wall thickness is 1/16". Color is white. To Order: Please select from available lengths of 5, 10, 25, 50, and 100 ft. Maximum continuous length is 100 ft.
1200° F Fiberglass Sleeving- Braided from heat-treated fiberglass coated with high-temperature resins. Resists abrasion, chemicals, solvents, and oil. Temperature range is -94° to +1202° F. Wall thickness is 3/64" except for 1" ID size, which is 1/16" thick. Color is black. UL recognized and CSA certified. To Order: Please select from available lengths of 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, and 200 ft. Maximum continuous length is 200 ft.
1400° F Fiberglass Sleeving- This tightly knitted fiberglass is stronger and provides the best temperature resistance of the fiberglass sleeving we offer. Resists most acids (excluding hydrofluoric), alkalies, oil, grease, ammonia, and detergents. Temperature range is -70° to +1400° F. Wall thickness is " Color is white. To Order: Please select from available lengths of 5, 10, 25, and 50 ft. Maximum continuous length is 50 ft.

Lastly...

Nomex Sleeving
Unlike fiberglass and silica, Nomex (knitted from Aramid fiber) doesn't irritate the skin. Resists most acids and alkalies, water, hydraulic fluid, alcohol, solvents, waxes, petroleum, UV, flame, and salt. Has excellent strength and dimensional stability. Temperature range is -320° to +450° F. Wall thickness is 1/16". Color is white.To Order: Please select from available lengths of 5, 10, 25, 50, and 100 ft. Maximum continuous length is 100 ft.

setzep

Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier.
I love the turbo, it makes plenty of power to move my FB around. Spool is right there, you won't be disappointed with "lag". I don't know how much power I have, haven't had it to the dyno. Unlike your old turbo this one will pull past 8k and probably come on earlier. 3500rpm sounds late to me, what is your "full boost"? I run 9-10 psi right now (just off spring pressure) and when I get around to putting in a boost controller I'll run 15 also. The guy I bought it from said to not bother runing much past 17psi. I guess it does best in the 15-17 range, or it did for him. I've run 9-10 psi and also 15 psi and you can feel a pretty big jump in power. In my car it means the difference between spinning in 3rd gear or not.
It sounds like you have plenty injector for the turbo but I'd take another look at your fuel pump.

Let me know how you like the turbo after you got to do a few boost runs. I'd like to hear your impressions of it.
-Cam

setzep

Oh yeah, do you have any info on the history of this turbo? As in what it came in? I'm guessing some big diesel cube truck?

Chris Ng

Well, here are my impressions on the turbo...
I originally was running off the wastegate spring which was a .6 bar spring, so about 8.7psi ... figured this would be plenty boost for the time being.. wastegate started to open by 6 psi, and I would see a max of 9.5 psi in all gears.. I would go into positive boost in 4th gear by about 2200rpm, and would hit full boost by 4000rpm.. the car pulled okay, but to be honest, I couldn't tell if it was making more power than my old hybrid setup.. I hooked up my boost controller (profec B) and started turning up the boost.. I am now at 14.5psi max.. with the profec, my wastegate doesn't start to open till about 11psi.. since my wastegate is open vented, this makes driving around town alot easier on the eardrums, since I still have plenty of power availible at 10psi.. 14 psi comes around in 4th gear by around 4500rpm .. it's definitly laggier than my hybrid setup (that was to be expected) but certianly streetable..
when boost comes on, I don't get as much of a push back into the seat feeling as I did with the hybrid.. power comes on alot more linear..it's almost decieving.. it doesn't feel as powerful as the old setup, however I definitly am going faster than before.. the turbo also pulls and continues to pull, well beyond 7000rpm.. overall I like it quite a bit.. I'm not breaking the tires loose at will with this turbo, but I think I have to play around with my timing/fuel maps a bit more to get things set up right.. I retarded the timing I had on boost for safety and found that the turbo would spool quicker.. however I could have also lost some power in turn.. got to find a happy medium..
No scheduled dyno time so far to compare numbers with my old setup, but I will be heading to the track on friday and shoudl be able to be tell if my trap speeds are up..

I've also been trying to find more info on this turbo, however havn't had much luck.. can't even find a compressor map for it.. however I was told that it is very similar to the maps of a t66?

I'd eventually like to run more boost, as it seems like after 13 psi, this turbo really starts to make some power.. even a 1 psi increase in boost is now noticeable.. however I would like to continue running pump gas as well.. how does one know how much boost is possible before having to more over to racefuel??

setzep

I notice that with my turbo also.. Boost doesn't really HIT, it's more linear. But I do remember the first time I boosted it felt like it hit pretty fast in 2nd gear. I remember it would light up the tires like a light switch in 2nd. I should go back and take a look at that map and compare to my current one.

I haven't found anything either on the turbo. I don't think there are many around.