New streetport for my single, need advise on fuel/timing
For what type of car?
for a rotary, very, very possible.... look at the depth of the threads in the front of the journal shaft. Now look at the assembled depth of the front pulley, the threaded section ends at the same depth as the pully, and the wall of the shaft is very thin, overtightening of the belts can bend it let alone what you could do with a wooden block and a jack, hell who knows but it is possible.
kenn
for a rotary, very, very possible.... look at the depth of the threads in the front of the journal shaft. Now look at the assembled depth of the front pulley, the threaded section ends at the same depth as the pully, and the wall of the shaft is very thin, overtightening of the belts can bend it let alone what you could do with a wooden block and a jack, hell who knows but it is possible.
kenn
It would have to take a bloody serious knock to bend a shaft. AND ITS BLOODY THICK.
Maybe you should refresh your memory and pull one down. ........
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,389
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From: Stamford, CT
i know i def need a tune, hopefully that solves the problem, good thought about the injectors as well, they were switched to the new motor and i was careful but i guess they could have gotten dirty or something.
Only problem is that i don't know anyone that can tune locally, i worked late and did not get to speak with pf supercars, hopefully ray is kind enough to work with me over the phone a bit, thanks for all the comments, i'll make an update once i am able to talk with pfs about tuning
Only problem is that i don't know anyone that can tune locally, i worked late and did not get to speak with pf supercars, hopefully ray is kind enough to work with me over the phone a bit, thanks for all the comments, i'll make an update once i am able to talk with pfs about tuning
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,389
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From: Stamford, CT
I removed the plugs tonight, probly should have done this a while ago. but could this be the problem. both 1st rotor plugs are black, the rears are clean. this is what they look like.
The pics arent the best, but the rear is on the left, both Trailing and Leading plugs look alike on each rotor. The rear is almost clean, and the front is pure black. almost no miles on the engine still.

The pics arent the best, but the rear is on the left, both Trailing and Leading plugs look alike on each rotor. The rear is almost clean, and the front is pure black. almost no miles on the engine still.

Thread Starter
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,389
Likes: 963
From: Stamford, CT
I also thought I had flooded it after i put the old plugs back in (from before the engine swap) so I pulled the egi and cranked for a while and it fired and tried to run. is this supposed to happen?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,389
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From: Stamford, CT
I found the FSM and tested the coils, I have crazy spark from all of them.
And I've switched the plugs around, (clean are now in the front rotor), just waiting for the battery to fully charge back up.
Is it possible that the front rotor's primary injector is messed up? so at the low rpms its only running on 1 rotor, it sounds like its only running on one, except every now and then it will sputter a few times and sound like it should for a second (i think when the secondary injector sprays a bunch of fuel).
could a bad primary injector cause these symptoms that i'm having? I've done some searching and can't really tell, is there any way to test the injector at home or while its still in the car?
And I've switched the plugs around, (clean are now in the front rotor), just waiting for the battery to fully charge back up.
Is it possible that the front rotor's primary injector is messed up? so at the low rpms its only running on 1 rotor, it sounds like its only running on one, except every now and then it will sputter a few times and sound like it should for a second (i think when the secondary injector sprays a bunch of fuel).
could a bad primary injector cause these symptoms that i'm having? I've done some searching and can't really tell, is there any way to test the injector at home or while its still in the car?
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Pittsburg, KS.
I found the FSM and tested the coils, I have crazy spark from all of them.
And I've switched the plugs around, (clean are now in the front rotor), just waiting for the battery to fully charge back up.
Is it possible that the front rotor's primary injector is messed up? so at the low rpms its only running on 1 rotor, it sounds like its only running on one, except every now and then it will sputter a few times and sound like it should for a second (i think when the secondary injector sprays a bunch of fuel).
could a bad primary injector cause these symptoms that i'm having? I've done some searching and can't really tell, is there any way to test the injector at home or while its still in the car?
And I've switched the plugs around, (clean are now in the front rotor), just waiting for the battery to fully charge back up.
Is it possible that the front rotor's primary injector is messed up? so at the low rpms its only running on 1 rotor, it sounds like its only running on one, except every now and then it will sputter a few times and sound like it should for a second (i think when the secondary injector sprays a bunch of fuel).
could a bad primary injector cause these symptoms that i'm having? I've done some searching and can't really tell, is there any way to test the injector at home or while its still in the car?
Try spraying some starting fluid in the motor at idle to see if the motor runs smoother. Why don't you add 5-10% fuel throughout the whole map to make it safe than take out fuel where it is rich.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,389
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From: Stamford, CT
I did that but it still sounds really weird like its only running on one rotor, which is why i think its the front primary injector. I'll get some starting fluid and see if that makes the engine sound like its running on both rotors.
The original fuel map had injector opening time at 1.5ms, a change in this will add a linear change to the whole fuel curve. when i put it to 2ms it bogs down, when i changed it to 1ms it idled a bit better.
The original fuel map had injector opening time at 1.5ms, a change in this will add a linear change to the whole fuel curve. when i put it to 2ms it bogs down, when i changed it to 1ms it idled a bit better.
You're only running on one rotor. The side that the clean plugs came from is not combusting. If you pulled the plug wires off and have spark on all 4 wires then its probably either one side is flooded, or your primary injector is not firing. Its not that hard to figure out! I diagnosed a bad injector on a late night with only a flashlight and some end wrenches on the side of the road in about 10 mins. Look for some of my other posts to someone for how to diagnose issues like this. I don't have time to write it all out.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2008
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From: Stamford, CT
Thanks, i'll be looking through you're posts. I've got spark, and I cranked it without the egi and without the plugs in it, so hopefully its no longer flooded. how do you tell if the injector is stuck open or just not functioning at all?
Yeah that def sounds like the prob. If the injector is bad you can test to see if there is resistance between the two elect connections at the injector. Or just connect volage to ve injector and listen for it to click. But sounds like you found the prob
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,389
Likes: 963
From: Stamford, CT
Oh yeah, since the wire broke off in the clip i had to kind of cob it together a bit, but it runs awesome now. thank you everyone, too bad i didn't see the two weeks ago. thanks again, i'll go through the break in and go get a real tune.
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