Chaotic_FC

I just recently bought a 3 stage Magnus pro-series dry sump. It is used, but in great mechanical condition.

Does anybody have any diagrams or pictures explaining what needs to be done to accomidate a dry sump system on a 13b? I cannot find any information this out there.

thanks in advanced

- Zander

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

Pictures of said kit?

Chaotic_FC

here are some pics from the seller:




condition is much better in person than in pictures.

Chaotic_FC

so does anybody on this forum know?

Chaotic_FC

anybody?

NOPR

Is that an external set up thats supposed to run off of an accessory belt? All the dry sump rotaries I've seen used the ones that were built into the front cover (mazdaspeed). Defined Autoworks has a dry sump write up in their vendor section of the forum, i suggest you start there and ask Logan if you have any questions.

Chaotic_FC

yeh, i couldn't afford a mazdaspeed front cover, and figured this would be just as good
i'll have to check in that section
thanks

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

don't mean this to sound harsh or condescending, but why didn't you check on it before you bought it?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Is this for your peripheral port carbon fibre wide body stainless steel tube frame FC?

Against my better judgement....

To make the dry sump system work, you need to:

1. Remove stock oil pump, leave the drive gear on the eccentric.

2. To be neat and tidy, plug up stock oil passages. Put a freeze plug in the front cover and front iron, make a small blockoff place to plug the front pickup.

2.5. Plug up the oil cooler banjo connection on the rear iron, and remove and plug the stock oil pressure regulator.

3. Fabricate a plate to replace the oil pan. Use 3/16" aluminum. Add two small sumps about 1/2" deep to the front and back of the plate. Make them a bit thinner then the width of the plate. Weld an AN flare to each.

4. Fabricate mount brackets for the dry sump pump. Decide whether to use a V-belt or toothed belt and modify the front pulley appropriately or swap the pulley on the pump.

5. Fabricate a remote reservoir to hold your oil. It will need one input connected to the top in a swirl pot configuration. It needs a vent, and a filler. The feed to the pump is to be on the bottom of the reservoir, preferably at the lowest point in the middle (make the bottom a slight cone).

6. Plumb the system. Connect your two scavenge stages to the new oil plate, one to each sump. The outputs of the scavenge connect together and go to your swirl pot. The bottom of the reservoir connects to the pump pressure section feed. The output of that feed goes to an oil filter, then to the cooler (or cooler first, doesn't really matter), then to the engine via a plate that replaces the stock pedestal.

I may have left out one or two minor tasks but you get the idea.

Chaotic_FC

thank you aaron
i already understand those things
i suppose what i should have asked more specifically, is where should the oil re-enter the engine?
i have seen the oil enter the engine through the center plate before. does that provide any extra oil to t

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Have you ever actually seen a center plate from a 13B? If so, you would know that there are no oil passages except the simple passthrough on the dowel pin hole that supplies oil from the rear iron all the way up to the front iron. With some work, oil can be delivered to that passage to feed both sides of the engine, however it's largely unnecessary as on both the rear and front iron, there are already two oil passages which are very convenient to access.

Any oiling you have seen applied to the center iron is because that iron has been machined to accept a 3rd bearing, for a two piece eccentric shaft.

The diagram above this post is a pretty good reference to what you need generally. Personally I'd put the filter before the cooler to try and keep crud out of it.

Chaotic_FC

hmm, alright
thanks guys
i'll have some pics up soon of my work