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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 02:04 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Jon_Birmingham_England
The counterweights generate an equal and oposite secondary couple and smooths the engine.
All the forces are constrained within the crank itself and that is why the engine is smooth.

The key is to make BOTH ROTOR ASSEMBLY'S THE SAME MASS.
if the counter weights are propperly balance with respect to their rotor (RCW -> FR, and FCW -> RR)

only time will tell if Justin's assumptions and theories work.


You stack the engine yet??? COME AWN!! I want to see this set-up run!! (twin scroll too...is the other controversial thread, haha!)
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 04:08 PM
  #52  
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From: chamber of farts
Originally Posted by dubulup
It appears these rotors, have a little more attention than just grinding some metal out...


Good luck with the project, should be interesting!!
DAAAAAAAAMN!!! That is a nice rotor.
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 10:39 PM
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any idea on the temperatures that coating will hold up to? the site doesn't show anything like that. and how smooth it is (for rejecting carbon build up).
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 10:40 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by dubulup
You stack the engine yet??? COME AWN!! I want to see this set-up run!! (twin scroll too...is the other controversial thread, haha!)
I can't wait either, it's 3 weeks and counting until graduation, then its home to the 7. Controversial....haha yea they have stirred a little **** up havent they. I cant wait to see if this stuff works too.

Justin
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by yodaddy
any idea on the temperatures that coating will hold up to? the site doesn't show anything like that. and how smooth it is (for rejecting carbon build up).
hmmmmm...good point. You're right it doesn't seem to post a temp anywhere. So no I don't, maybe I'll shoot them an email.

The surface of the rotor feels kind of like it did after sand blasting. I would think this is NOT very good for rejecting carbon buildup. I was thinking of maybe buffing them with some fine steel wool maybe? I'm not sure if I should try to do anything here or not.

Justin
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Old Apr 13, 2006 | 03:54 PM
  #56  
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i just noticed you're in logan, is that where you live or where you're going to school?
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Old Apr 14, 2006 | 08:21 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by yodaddy
i just noticed you're in logan, is that where you live or where you're going to school?
Both for now. I graduate from USU this May in Mechanical Engineering. Then back to Ohio.

Justin
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 02:26 PM
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right on, what in the world made you decide to go to USU ? there is a local group of rotor heads around here if you want to meet any before you leave www.slcrotary.com back on the subject, it would be cool if you could get that info from them and share it(about the coating).
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 06:53 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by yodaddy
any idea on the temperatures that coating will hold up to? the site doesn't show anything like that. and how smooth it is (for rejecting carbon build up).
I emailed Techline Coatings:

ME: 1) What temperatures is this good to?

Leonard: Beyond the melt temperature of the piston. Over 1200f.

ME: 2) If I would like a smoother finish after applying this coating, what, if any, is the best method of achieving this. (i.e. Scotch-Brite, Steel wool, etc..)

Leonard: If it has a slight texture, First make sure you are blending it and spraying it properly. Stir extremely well and even if necessary add some BB's or smal ball bearings and shake real well. Spray at high air pressure like 60 psi. P{olishing the small texture can be done with fine sand paper etc.

Why USU...ha, good question, I'm not sure. I had never really been to Utah, it had mountains and engineering so I figured it would do.

Justin
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 10:36 PM
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cool thanks, any idea on if you can buid it up with multiple coats and have it last? asking because i'm wondering if you cvould spray it then sand it down to get a smooth finish and spray it again to get the thickness back.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 07:44 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by pistonsuk
ME: 1) What temperatures is this good to?

Leonard: Beyond the melt temperature of the piston. Over 1200f.
is that going to be high enough? I know exhaust gas in contact with those coatings will be close to 40% higher than that.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 08:31 AM
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These rotors were done by CLR Motorsports in Miami.... here on the forum is name is GT1-20B...my friend is running them in his fd dynoed well over 500whp.. and more to come... i also will be using them in my race car 13b N/A bridgeport with rx-8 rotors and 51 IDA weber

Last edited by 550rwhprex; Apr 17, 2006 at 08:34 AM.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 02:44 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by yodaddy
cool thanks, any idea on if you can buid it up with multiple coats and have it last? asking because i'm wondering if you cvould spray it then sand it down to get a smooth finish and spray it again to get the thickness back
Techline advised against putting on multiple coats. I think it would be best to leave it alone or very lightly sand or scuff the surface to make it smoother. A friend of mine used this to coat the piston tops in a turbo'd Z engine and after 30k there is no excessive carbon build up. I dont expect more than 30k from this engine so i might be alright.

Originally Posted by dubulup
is that going to be high enough? I know exhaust gas in contact with those coatings will be close to 40% higher than that.
They recommend this coating for internal engine parts on turbo and nitrous applications. I assume this temperature given is of the actual part surface. Although combustion temps easily exceed 2000F, I guess the rotor face never goes above 1200F (lets hope). Aluminum does melt about 1100F, I assume that combustion temps (not exh temps) probably dont vary much from piston to rotary engines so I am probably ok.

Justin
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 11:51 PM
  #64  
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wow... ur pretty brave to tackle this project.
I'll be graduating this may as well from Univ of Maryland and go home to my 7 =)
Guess we're in the same boat!
And I also did Mech Eng
Keep us updated and good luck!!
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Old May 8, 2006 | 03:27 PM
  #65  
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My Dremmel bevel job now has about 5K miles.
I was working on a low fuel pressure problem so during this video I was in low boost with the header dump closed.

You may want to right click & save target as, to get around a codec plugin error, and view it locally.
13 MB video of some canyon carving.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 08:25 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by pistonsuk
Kevin at Rotary Resurrection PM'd me these "mean" rotor weights. Thanks Kevin for taking the time.



I have heard of using one or two letter deviations in a build. I am not positive what mazda does. To be conservative let's assume it is one. That means, for example, worst case would be a heavy "B" (4388g) being used with a light "C" (4342g). This allows for 45g difference between the two rotors. After removing material from my rotors I noted less then 0.3grams difference in material removed.

More importantly, if it is true that mazda uses the same counterweights on all builds then sets of rotors weighing anywhere from 8800g (2 mean "A's") to 8628g (2 mean "E's"), a range of 172grams, can be used with the same counterweights.

Given this info why would the removal of 60grams from my rotors merit the need for $200 of balancing?

Justin
yes one counter weight for each generation but the counterweghts on each engine have drill balancing marks indicationg that they were balanced by mazda to the rotors chosen. Does your stock counter weights have no sign of ballance machining?

I do like what your doing, I have totaly over looked this as internal modification choice when i last had my engine apart, I had heard of this done years ago but was told it was for a different reason, to prevent scoring of the side plates, which sounded like rubish so never took much notice. but the reason you explained above now make a lot of sence.

I supose you are getting an extra 5deg or so more port timing with out the overlap?.
Attached Thumbnails My Beveled S5 Turbo Rotors *Pics*-000_0731.jpg  
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Old May 11, 2006 | 10:54 PM
  #67  
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Much more than that actually...I believe it's an extra 140 degrees TOTAL. That's a lot.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 05:12 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by rx7tt95
Much more than that actually...I believe it's an extra 140 degrees TOTAL. That's a lot.
if he beveled both ends of the rotor, but he only did the botom or the final edge that closes the port. i meassured aprox 5mm gain in port hight or aprox 3-5deg xtra timing. hmm i think i mite have try this with a big street port combo.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 11:09 AM
  #69  
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flip the rotors around backwards to have the ports open earlier. you can close them as late as you want with a port job, but can only go so early without bridging.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 07:05 PM
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or do both ends and a large extended port to get that 140deg gain
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Old May 14, 2006 | 08:54 PM
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550rwhprex, what is the cost per rotor for the cnc work?
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Old May 16, 2006 | 11:54 AM
  #72  
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SureShot beveled both leading and trailing edges. I purposely beveled only the trailing because I did not want to increase int/exh overlap.

Just got the engine togther last night. Should be running later today.

Justin
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Old May 16, 2006 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Heath
550rwhprex, what is the cost per rotor for the cnc work?

i'd like to find out too. beveled rotors with renesis-style porting = brap brap brap from a streetport
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Old May 18, 2006 | 10:04 AM
  #74  
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well it runs....and it vibrates too. not bad, just noticable more than the last setup. i replaced the stock engine mounts with poly ones so i think that this is the main cause. granted, a fully balanced engine would most likely feel better. i'll let you all know if anything explodes.

what kind of compression bounces should i expect from this engine if i am using a normal compression gauge with the check valve removed?

Justin
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Old May 18, 2006 | 10:49 AM
  #75  
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good job on getting things together!

I take it your twin scroll manifold is in aswell???
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