My Beveled S5 Turbo Rotors *Pics*
#51
development
Originally Posted by Jon_Birmingham_England
The counterweights generate an equal and oposite secondary couple and smooths the engine.
All the forces are constrained within the crank itself and that is why the engine is smooth.
The key is to make BOTH ROTOR ASSEMBLY'S THE SAME MASS.
All the forces are constrained within the crank itself and that is why the engine is smooth.
The key is to make BOTH ROTOR ASSEMBLY'S THE SAME MASS.
only time will tell if Justin's assumptions and theories work.
You stack the engine yet??? COME AWN!! I want to see this set-up run!! (twin scroll too...is the other controversial thread, haha!)
#52
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Originally Posted by dubulup
It appears these rotors, have a little more attention than just grinding some metal out...
Good luck with the project, should be interesting!!
Good luck with the project, should be interesting!!
#53
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any idea on the temperatures that coating will hold up to? the site doesn't show anything like that. and how smooth it is (for rejecting carbon build up).
#54
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by dubulup
You stack the engine yet??? COME AWN!! I want to see this set-up run!! (twin scroll too...is the other controversial thread, haha!)
Justin
#55
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by yodaddy
any idea on the temperatures that coating will hold up to? the site doesn't show anything like that. and how smooth it is (for rejecting carbon build up).
The surface of the rotor feels kind of like it did after sand blasting. I would think this is NOT very good for rejecting carbon buildup. I was thinking of maybe buffing them with some fine steel wool maybe? I'm not sure if I should try to do anything here or not.
Justin
#57
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by yodaddy
i just noticed you're in logan, is that where you live or where you're going to school?
Justin
#58
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right on, what in the world made you decide to go to USU ? there is a local group of rotor heads around here if you want to meet any before you leave www.slcrotary.com back on the subject, it would be cool if you could get that info from them and share it(about the coating).
#59
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by yodaddy
any idea on the temperatures that coating will hold up to? the site doesn't show anything like that. and how smooth it is (for rejecting carbon build up).
ME: 1) What temperatures is this good to?
Leonard: Beyond the melt temperature of the piston. Over 1200f.
ME: 2) If I would like a smoother finish after applying this coating, what, if any, is the best method of achieving this. (i.e. Scotch-Brite, Steel wool, etc..)
Leonard: If it has a slight texture, First make sure you are blending it and spraying it properly. Stir extremely well and even if necessary add some BB's or smal ball bearings and shake real well. Spray at high air pressure like 60 psi. P{olishing the small texture can be done with fine sand paper etc.
Why USU...ha, good question, I'm not sure. I had never really been to Utah, it had mountains and engineering so I figured it would do.
Justin
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cool thanks, any idea on if you can buid it up with multiple coats and have it last? asking because i'm wondering if you cvould spray it then sand it down to get a smooth finish and spray it again to get the thickness back.
#61
development
Originally Posted by pistonsuk
ME: 1) What temperatures is this good to?
Leonard: Beyond the melt temperature of the piston. Over 1200f.
Leonard: Beyond the melt temperature of the piston. Over 1200f.
#62
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These rotors were done by CLR Motorsports in Miami.... here on the forum is name is GT1-20B...my friend is running them in his fd dynoed well over 500whp.. and more to come... i also will be using them in my race car 13b N/A bridgeport with rx-8 rotors and 51 IDA weber
Last edited by 550rwhprex; 04-17-06 at 08:34 AM.
#63
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by yodaddy
cool thanks, any idea on if you can buid it up with multiple coats and have it last? asking because i'm wondering if you cvould spray it then sand it down to get a smooth finish and spray it again to get the thickness back
Originally Posted by dubulup
is that going to be high enough? I know exhaust gas in contact with those coatings will be close to 40% higher than that.
Justin
#64
wow... ur pretty brave to tackle this project.
I'll be graduating this may as well from Univ of Maryland and go home to my 7 =)
Guess we're in the same boat!
And I also did Mech Eng
Keep us updated and good luck!!
I'll be graduating this may as well from Univ of Maryland and go home to my 7 =)
Guess we're in the same boat!
And I also did Mech Eng
Keep us updated and good luck!!
#65
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My Dremmel bevel job now has about 5K miles.
I was working on a low fuel pressure problem so during this video I was in low boost with the header dump closed.
You may want to right click & save target as, to get around a codec plugin error, and view it locally.
13 MB video of some canyon carving.
I was working on a low fuel pressure problem so during this video I was in low boost with the header dump closed.
You may want to right click & save target as, to get around a codec plugin error, and view it locally.
13 MB video of some canyon carving.
#66
Senior Member
Originally Posted by pistonsuk
Kevin at Rotary Resurrection PM'd me these "mean" rotor weights. Thanks Kevin for taking the time.
I have heard of using one or two letter deviations in a build. I am not positive what mazda does. To be conservative let's assume it is one. That means, for example, worst case would be a heavy "B" (4388g) being used with a light "C" (4342g). This allows for 45g difference between the two rotors. After removing material from my rotors I noted less then 0.3grams difference in material removed.
More importantly, if it is true that mazda uses the same counterweights on all builds then sets of rotors weighing anywhere from 8800g (2 mean "A's") to 8628g (2 mean "E's"), a range of 172grams, can be used with the same counterweights.
Given this info why would the removal of 60grams from my rotors merit the need for $200 of balancing?
Justin
I have heard of using one or two letter deviations in a build. I am not positive what mazda does. To be conservative let's assume it is one. That means, for example, worst case would be a heavy "B" (4388g) being used with a light "C" (4342g). This allows for 45g difference between the two rotors. After removing material from my rotors I noted less then 0.3grams difference in material removed.
More importantly, if it is true that mazda uses the same counterweights on all builds then sets of rotors weighing anywhere from 8800g (2 mean "A's") to 8628g (2 mean "E's"), a range of 172grams, can be used with the same counterweights.
Given this info why would the removal of 60grams from my rotors merit the need for $200 of balancing?
Justin
I do like what your doing, I have totaly over looked this as internal modification choice when i last had my engine apart, I had heard of this done years ago but was told it was for a different reason, to prevent scoring of the side plates, which sounded like rubish so never took much notice. but the reason you explained above now make a lot of sence.
I supose you are getting an extra 5deg or so more port timing with out the overlap?.
#68
Senior Member
Originally Posted by rx7tt95
Much more than that actually...I believe it's an extra 140 degrees TOTAL. That's a lot.
#69
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flip the rotors around backwards to have the ports open earlier. you can close them as late as you want with a port job, but can only go so early without bridging.
#72
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Thread Starter
SureShot beveled both leading and trailing edges. I purposely beveled only the trailing because I did not want to increase int/exh overlap.
Just got the engine togther last night. Should be running later today.
Justin
Just got the engine togther last night. Should be running later today.
Justin
#73
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Originally Posted by Heath
550rwhprex, what is the cost per rotor for the cnc work?
i'd like to find out too. beveled rotors with renesis-style porting = brap brap brap from a streetport
#74
Senior Member
Thread Starter
well it runs....and it vibrates too. not bad, just noticable more than the last setup. i replaced the stock engine mounts with poly ones so i think that this is the main cause. granted, a fully balanced engine would most likely feel better. i'll let you all know if anything explodes.
what kind of compression bounces should i expect from this engine if i am using a normal compression gauge with the check valve removed?
Justin
what kind of compression bounces should i expect from this engine if i am using a normal compression gauge with the check valve removed?
Justin