Single Turbo RX-7's Questions about all aspects of single turbo setups.

intake manifold pics for my single FD project...

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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 01:03 AM
  #26  
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i think it looks good, and should work real good.. nice job!
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 06:09 AM
  #27  
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Whats the 13b cosmo inlet like compared to the FD inlet??
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 09:30 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by crispeed
It's gonna leak under boost. Even the factory intakes are prone to leaking on the primary ports at high boost. I always use 3/4 inch to 1 inch 6061 to help with that problem.
motor shouldn't be seeing too high of boost. However, if it really becomes a problem, I can always take the manifold off, cut the flange off and throw a nice thick one on there. Thanks for the info.

Last edited by 2a+RoN; Mar 13, 2006 at 09:37 AM.
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 10:13 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by crispeed
It's gonna leak under boost. Even the factory intakes are prone to leaking on the primary ports at high boost. I always use 3/4 inch to 1 inch 6061 to help with that problem.

1" flanges on an intake manifold?
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 01:09 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by GUITARJUNKIE28
1" flanges on an intake manifold?
Yes.
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 03:15 PM
  #31  
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From: lebanon
Steel is MUCH more rigid than very weak Alloy, combined with the pipes stiffness to the plenum and if its flat already it will take a hell of a force to distort it (100+psi).

I doubt very much you will have any problems at all

P.S. Lots of people here use M.S. *of similar diminesions* to construct intake manifolds with no issues @ 35psi boost pressures. You will find it far better than welded alloy as it wont crack in service as its much stronger against fatigue, good choice mate 6061 or anything else of heat treated grade is not that after its welded either but the extra thickness does help.
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 06:30 PM
  #32  
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Very nice. I especially like the locations of the secondary injectors. Hides all the plumbing and keeps them out of the heat.
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 07:18 PM
  #33  
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is there any taper in those runners.i just always figured u would want some sort of taper in the runners to add a bit of velocity and or cut down on pumping losses<------not an expert tho
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 07:19 PM
  #34  
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Looks very nice, good job.
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 07:45 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by T04Eneedy
is there any taper in those runners.i just always figured u would want some sort of taper in the runners to add a bit of velocity and or cut down on pumping losses<------not an expert tho
I wish they were tapered the entire way, but I figured that would be pretty difficult to do w/ mild steel mandrel u-bends.. I flared out the ends of the runners where they meet the plenum, then ground a nice smooth radius after it was welded in. The tubes are crushed down a bit where they meet the engine flange and I tried to put as smooth of a transition into the flange, I've got a couple pics that I'll post up later showing what I mean. Thanks for all the compliments guys! Its nice to see something finished after putting so many hours into it (~50 hrs...)
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 07:47 PM
  #36  
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i really dont think you would need a flange thicker then 1/2". whats the length of your runners? sorry im asking so many questions im just so interested and would like to start applying these dimensions to my plans and modifly them a little bit... then its gonna be made of stainless
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 08:14 PM
  #37  
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runners are 15". Like I said earlier, I think I would go w/ a little bit smaller diameter runners, it was kinda a bitch matching the runners to the ports, might make the engine a lil happier too. Good luck w/ your project.
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 09:23 PM
  #38  
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Looks good man. When are you expecting it to be on the road? I wanna race. Mine will be running in about 2 months.

-Destin
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 10:04 PM
  #39  
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I hope she's running by then... but it'll only be n/a so it won't be much of a challenge
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 10:18 PM
  #40  
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here's a shot of the portmatched runners:

and here's one of the radius into the runners:
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 10:23 PM
  #41  
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I realized it was going to be quite near the downpipe and turbo, so it's been ceramic coated to keep as much heat out of the intake as possible.
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 02:51 PM
  #42  
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did you make that out of stainles steel its going to be very hot

i would have mounted the trottle body direct to that 3 inch pipe



look at mine

some more more
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 08:00 PM
  #43  
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Its made of mild steel. It only cost me ~$50 alltogether since I had scrap of everything except the u-bends.

Which 3" pipe? I assume you mean the plenum?

I almost wanna make another one now that I have so many things that I'd do differently..
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 08:47 PM
  #44  
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i wanted to make one similar like your with 1.5 aluminum bends from burnsstainless
i made the turbo manifold first and when i started building the intake manifold there was no room to clear runner #1
i might still come up with some thing

i think you also got a q45 tb???
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 04:45 AM
  #45  
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looks great. how did you make the radiused bends where the runners meet the plenum?
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 09:44 AM
  #46  
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its a secret...






Actually, I found something in the shop, i think a socket, that had a bit of a flare on it and it's od matched the id of the tube, then just pressed the tube onto it. Worked great.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 11:37 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by 2a+RoN
its a secret...






Actually, I found something in the shop, i think a socket, that had a bit of a flare on it and it's od matched the id of the tube, then just pressed the tube onto it. Worked great.

NICE, thats all i can say
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 12:07 PM
  #48  
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looks good...
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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 12:14 AM
  #49  
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That's damn good for a first time TIG project! How are the middle two runners welded to the flange? From the inside of the port?
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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 11:40 AM
  #50  
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I tried to get in there as much as I could with the tig, then switched to mig to get in there further, then I welded from inside the port as well, kind of a PITA.
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