how nuts am I?
how nuts am I?
Stupid water coolant seals have gone.
A malloy reman is on the way.
How silly will it be for me to toss in a TO4s with a PFC and fuel pump(and big clutch) when i toss in the motor. Everything else stock.
Run 8 psi till I get the engine/clutch broken in...and then when my $$ allows...toss on more fuel system, exhaust, IC.
I realize my performance will suffer till I get the turbo breathing more healthfully. But if I don't rev it too much...or push too hard...seems like I wouldn't do any harm to anything.
I am quite experienced fabricator/tuner. I've built 2 open class rally cars from the ground up and have a 12/14 finishing record...with the 2 dnfs due to roll and tree
details of what I was thinking is using an Ebay special manifold with more beefy welds...to4s with .84 divided housing and Tial 46mm wastegate. I'll be making up my own down/intake/ic pipes.
I was going to use a "standard" sequential downpipe to start out with. obviously cut off the sequential flange and weld on the v-band. Has anyone else done this? Does the bend that the standard sequential downpipe match anywhere close to where the single turbo kits do? Lengthening and shortening on both ends shouldn't be a big deal. I can butt weld thin stuff ok. I'm really just looking for a starting point.
oh yah. I'm gonna do this in a weekend
Sleep...who needs sleep 
Thoughts? BTW, the turbo, manifold and tial are already on the way.
john
A malloy reman is on the way.
How silly will it be for me to toss in a TO4s with a PFC and fuel pump(and big clutch) when i toss in the motor. Everything else stock.
Run 8 psi till I get the engine/clutch broken in...and then when my $$ allows...toss on more fuel system, exhaust, IC.
I realize my performance will suffer till I get the turbo breathing more healthfully. But if I don't rev it too much...or push too hard...seems like I wouldn't do any harm to anything.
I am quite experienced fabricator/tuner. I've built 2 open class rally cars from the ground up and have a 12/14 finishing record...with the 2 dnfs due to roll and tree

details of what I was thinking is using an Ebay special manifold with more beefy welds...to4s with .84 divided housing and Tial 46mm wastegate. I'll be making up my own down/intake/ic pipes.
I was going to use a "standard" sequential downpipe to start out with. obviously cut off the sequential flange and weld on the v-band. Has anyone else done this? Does the bend that the standard sequential downpipe match anywhere close to where the single turbo kits do? Lengthening and shortening on both ends shouldn't be a big deal. I can butt weld thin stuff ok. I'm really just looking for a starting point.
oh yah. I'm gonna do this in a weekend
Sleep...who needs sleep 
Thoughts? BTW, the turbo, manifold and tial are already on the way.
john
definitely keep it cool...
the larger turbo should keep compressed temps down...but the stock IC is a complete joke.
anyways...
for those of you whom have made your own kits...is starting out with a downpipe that is "designed" for the stock twins an ok starting point...or is it a waste of my money?
seems like the turbo output will be in a pretty close proximity to the stock output...
and there' so much room cause the huge cat's gone.
second question: What belt do i use when I get rid of the stock air pump?
thanks
john
the larger turbo should keep compressed temps down...but the stock IC is a complete joke.
anyways...
for those of you whom have made your own kits...is starting out with a downpipe that is "designed" for the stock twins an ok starting point...or is it a waste of my money?
seems like the turbo output will be in a pretty close proximity to the stock output...
and there' so much room cause the huge cat's gone.
second question: What belt do i use when I get rid of the stock air pump?
thanks
john
whew...this was the weekend...luckly it was a 3 day weekend 
I got the reman in with the single turbo(ebay manifold, tial 46mm and t04s(.84 hot side)) and am about 75% done with the custom downpipe. I started with a stock twin downpipe, and it actually came out pretty damm close...granted cut up and done in a completely different angles...but I only had to add a 6 inch section of straight stainless to finish it up. I used ARP header studs(3/8 course thread) for the manifold...and have 2 extra sets I'll sell for 15 bucks each if anyone else has the ebay manifold and hasn't figured out what the stud size is or what they're gonna use...
I went with -3 oil feed with a -10 return on cheapturbo's recomendation. -6 water lines.
got all the air pump crap removed. Wholly crud was there a lot. Got a huge pile of crusty vacuum tubes
Almost got it done...still gotta install the greddy IC. Then tune...and breakin the reman. And add more fuel and a real exhaust system...then 15 psi
couple of quick questions if anyone made it this far...
1. what's the temp sensor directly below the ECU coolant temp sensor? it is a single wire. Fans or dash gauge? I don't seem to have a connector for it...
2. what bundle of wires does the knock sensor hook up come from? I've got almost all the other wires hooked up...but i'll be dammed if I can find this connector.
3. For the OMP pressure source...i'm assuming I have to tap a boost only source...
as I posted on the main list, I also made my omp lines out of -3. Everything I know about fluid flow and how the system works...this should be OK...any other thoughts?
as far as tuning goes, I'm going to start with the stock ignition map(stock ports) under 5 psi and at about 7 psi make sure they don't go over 15 leading. then tune the fuel with the wideband/datalogit.
thanks for any words of advice anyone can give.
john
my hands ache
This much work shouldn't be done alone 
John

I got the reman in with the single turbo(ebay manifold, tial 46mm and t04s(.84 hot side)) and am about 75% done with the custom downpipe. I started with a stock twin downpipe, and it actually came out pretty damm close...granted cut up and done in a completely different angles...but I only had to add a 6 inch section of straight stainless to finish it up. I used ARP header studs(3/8 course thread) for the manifold...and have 2 extra sets I'll sell for 15 bucks each if anyone else has the ebay manifold and hasn't figured out what the stud size is or what they're gonna use...
I went with -3 oil feed with a -10 return on cheapturbo's recomendation. -6 water lines.
got all the air pump crap removed. Wholly crud was there a lot. Got a huge pile of crusty vacuum tubes

Almost got it done...still gotta install the greddy IC. Then tune...and breakin the reman. And add more fuel and a real exhaust system...then 15 psi

couple of quick questions if anyone made it this far...
1. what's the temp sensor directly below the ECU coolant temp sensor? it is a single wire. Fans or dash gauge? I don't seem to have a connector for it...
2. what bundle of wires does the knock sensor hook up come from? I've got almost all the other wires hooked up...but i'll be dammed if I can find this connector.
3. For the OMP pressure source...i'm assuming I have to tap a boost only source...
as I posted on the main list, I also made my omp lines out of -3. Everything I know about fluid flow and how the system works...this should be OK...any other thoughts?
as far as tuning goes, I'm going to start with the stock ignition map(stock ports) under 5 psi and at about 7 psi make sure they don't go over 15 leading. then tune the fuel with the wideband/datalogit.
thanks for any words of advice anyone can give.
john
my hands ache
This much work shouldn't be done alone 
John


