That's funny I was just about to take a look at the video and there you go posting a snapshot of it

When I bought the turbo I was told it's a TDO7 with a 25G compressor and a 17cm turbine housing. The turbine outlet flange that's on mine was made for it and welded on, it's not a bought item or casted into the housing. Is yours casted? In this video the turbine housing looks just like mine with the same small wrap on the rear and larger one on the front of the housing. I see now what you're talking about in regards to the turbine clamp size, your's is bigger. Mine looks like the one in the video. Your's looks more like one on a T-78. I think your's may be the "Q" trim while mine is the "P" trim when compairing to garrett terms.

Do you know where these turbos originally came from? I'm assuming diesel trucks? Maybe I should try taking it down to the local diesel repair shop and have them take a look at it. They might be able to identify and give me some background info.

Ok, more head scratching...

 

I'm sure businesses are glad there are still suckers out there.
I guess I didn't word my response effectively enough for you to comprehend what I was trying to say.  A lot of the R.E.A. stuff is rebadged Trust components.  R.E.A. makes very little "custom" parts in-house.  R.E.A. boost gauges used to be made by Omori, which used to make Trust gauges.  The front upper strut bar is the same design as Trust, but with different colored parts.  The spark wires used to (still is?) the same molds off the Trust spark plug wires.  I'm sorry if you're not up to speed of how these shop operates - R.E.A. is in bed with Trust, whether you like it or not or how much you're in denial.  You're right, R.E.A. does not stock Trust equipment - it's just all that stuff is rebadged or custom colors just for R.E.A. by Trust.

That SEV **** was "special magnets" that allow more power and better performance just by securing them onto your exhaust tail pipe, intake pipe, damper body - pure bullshit.


Wow, moving onto advanced words.  I'm sorry I had to crush your high expectations from R.E.A., but I know some others would like to know they are not what they make themselves out to be...top rotary shop in Japan.


-Ted

 

That would be a good idea, its hard to see the backside of that turbine in that video, and like I said, its hard to determine a/r from the outside appearance...from what I can tell of some other shots I have of the turbine, than flange is cast in... as soon as I get one of these in my hands, I will be able to give you the exact details of measurements etc... I tried to scan the one mag picture of it, but it loses its depth once I scan it, but it shows the rear wrap on the housing, and it looks to be only stepped down about 1/8" inch from the first wrap...I am really interested to see these spool and boost compared to the t04e I have now, since its such a popular turbo over there...Max

 

Actually, you didn't crush any expectations of RE, I have actually been there and bought stuff from there, and know what they sell on the shelves, I still hold them in pretty high regard while my you have further lowered what I expect from you, let me see here, a guy running a half beatin mostly stock FC, telling me RE is a sellout that doesn't know or do ****....Funny Ted, I didn't see your face on the wall at Mazda HQ in hiroshima....Thanks for coming out ....Max

 

no reason to get nasty, boys. no reason to threadjack, either.

 

No, but that was some funnny shiiaaat!!

 

I really really REALLY think setzep should save time and energy by using the current wastegate locations and simply change from a single wastegate to a dual Tial set up. You won't have to weld up holes in your runners 9or make new ones) and you already have angled them in the direction of flow anyways. just cut them off and inch or so from the runners and run a simple 90 (one on each side) to a length of pipe then the wastegates. Your spool should shorten also in theory due to keeping the primaries from cross talking or trading pressure differentials. For the price of one large unit, you can get 2 high quality Tials (sell your old one). Just my $0.02

~Mike...........

 

Max- I guess it's hard to tell if that turbine housing is exactly like mine but it has the same "dual" shape. Also judging by the hands on that Japanese guy I'd say it's the same as mine. Where is IGY...

150FC- that's ok, It's sorta on topic. I'm with Max on this one, after all I'm still waiting for REted to back up his words in this thread -> https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=253903

RacerXtreme7- hmm.. another idea. I'm almost liking this one I'd also gain ~35% more valve area if I were to go with two 38mm tials vs my single 46mm. Getting rid of the "H" pipe would also be a huge bonus. I only have one problem, where the WG would sit from the front runner. The oil drain line is right where the prime spot would be. Do you know off hand how tall a 38mm Tial is?

Thanks guys,
Cam

 

Setzep,

This is what I'm envisioning (see pic). Also some thing similar to what I'm building for my own home made manifold. Use the same place for your waste gate taps (so you wont need to weld them shut, or make new holes in your purdy mani) and run duals (try to keep the tubes going to the gates same length) and place the waste gates between the Dp and tranny. You can atmosphere dump them or plumb them back into DP separately or run a merge collector and dump plumb back. I guess you could merge them and dump them atmosphere too. It all depends how complex you want to make it, but as far as the base system (just 2 gates dumping atmosphere) it would be simple and should be effective in controlling boost without chopping up your current manifold too much.

~Mike..........

 

I see what you're saying now but I have a new concern, WG runner length. A page or two back someone mentioned how the WG runner length should be the same as the main runners, think this is critical?

 

Setzep,

Waste gate runner length same as primary length? Ok, we all want an optimal set up, but when space and cost and just plain making things a pain in the **** you gotta compromise some were..lol... Think of it this way, how many people have great set ups with good boost response and huge HP numbers from crappy manifold designs. Don't get me wrong, for those who can't affordit or doesn’t have the know how to build a manifold what’s offered works exceptionally well (basically any divided manifold works well enough for good boost response and power, even uneven legth runners, (tw TRY and find an equal legth runner manifold ANYWERE). ). You even up-ed this by having 3" straight section from the port, having very few bends, all being equal in length and bend radii, excellent merge from a round pipe to a square flange ETC ETC..... Yeah it would be absolutely optimal with the same length, but will there be a difference great enough to feel it from the seat of the pants? HELL NO. I'd concentraight more on making them the same length from one another then look at length of wg to primary length.


~Mike................

 

Ok Mike, I'm going to have to do some reasearch on the Tial 38's and take it from there. I also need to figure out if this turbine housing is the same as the one in the video Max posted. If the turbine housings are the same I think I'll have to go with your route.

Thanks a TON!

Cam

 

In this particular case, I agree. BTW, Cris used two small wastegates on his 9 sec car too.

 

Damn it's been a long time since I looked in on this thread. First of all Ted is correct in saying that REA works hand in hand with Trust and that all his turbo systems are rebadged Trust items(REA is more a body /chassis guy that got into rx-7's because he loved the design). The TD07-25G 17cm that setzep has is the same turbo that comes in the Trust TD07 FC turbo kit (same turbo REA loves). The turbo that Max shows is an old version based off the same frame and was originally found in OEM diesel applications. The TD07-25G is very compareable to a TO4R in it's potential. The 17cm # is the same as AR on Garrett turbos. 17cm is good for a stock to mildly ported motor. If you plan on going big try to find a 22cm, they do exist. I haven't played with mitsubishi turbos for about 5yrs, and have forgotten most of what I knew. I got away from them because I was paying $400 for a rebuild kit and I could buy a whole used Garrett turbo and rebuild kit for the same price and garrett parts are much more interchangeable/upgradeable.

 

IGY thanks a TON for chiming in! I'll have to store that info in my head.

 

Igy is right about the The t04r comparison... The turbo I put up is a fujitso engineering kit, which is the same as the panspeed kit, which I bought as well, both are the Td07-25a, which in all my searching, seems to be the popular number on FC kits that use a mitsu turbo...
I went through about 3 years of archives on a Japanese web board and found a thread about the Td07, its pretty interesting, with such comments, as exhaust system sensitive, hard to fit, etc etc, some of the other comments are that its very high power turbine, capable of 450 ps says one poster...
I did find another fc site with the same Td07 kit as I bought, he has his turbine spec as 24 cm3 on the panspeed kit. Is the Td07 25g then the 17cm3 and the "a" kit the 24 cm3? I went through a list of truck turbos and could only find the Td07s-18g listed.. The more popular number seems to be the td07-25a though on rx-7's there..
As far RE amemiya, yes alot of his stuff is Greddy stuff, mostly due to his acheivements in motorsport, Greddy doesn't align itself with every tom dick and harry, Mopar performance rabadges autometer, holley and carter stuff, does that mean they lack credibility...no.... His first business was painting cars when he was younger, his start with Rotary engines was with amatuer racing in his 20's when he began tuning them and rebuilding himself, his success on the racetrack and his liking for fast driving got him to where he is today, his shop carries alot of stuff other than Greddy merchandise, when I was there, there was a myriad of other marques on display, from cusco, to gab, knightsports and even racing beat products, there are ton of things they themselvs have developed , which are Rx-7 specific, they farm out the production of such items to keep costs in check, but which Japanese companies don't do that these days..
I spent about 70,000 yen at that shop when I was there, and they treated me as good as the other guy that spent 700,000 yen there on mods for his FD3s, they are a first class operation......

 

25a is old 25g is newer. I cannot think of a car that I have seen a 25a on in the last 5yrs, but I have seen the 25g on more cars than I can remember. The TD07 25g 17cm is the Trust TD07 kit, it is the same turbo REA says is #1 for the rotary. He may use a different AR exhaust housing. TD06 25g and the TD07 25g have the same compressor section. The T78 33d and the T88 33d have the same compressor section. Mitsubishi turbos are a bitch, because very little is shared or standardized.

Once saw a TD07 25g take off a finger tip. We found bone in the throttle body. When we pulled the IC piping the next day, I almost lost my lunch from the smell. Fun ****!

REA runs a business that caters to the rx7 community, he is a good guy in my book. He makes very nice chassis components and body kits. He puts his name on other people's **** that he sells, I don't care, everyone does it. Most of the stuff he sells can be had for cheaper if you go to the source. He has the rep why shouldn't he use it to make money.

 

Funny, R.E.A. started just out like that...
The word "ironic" comes to mind.


I'm glad to see that you base your purchases on who's picture is on wall at Mazda HQ in Hiroshima.



-Ted

 

Oh, it has to do with the position of the restrictor...but it's difference is minimal for most applications.  Whatever the case, it had nothing useful to add to that post...and it really has nothing to do with this one either.

-Ted

 

It's funny you mention those particular products.
Cusco is heavily aligned with Trust; you can only but authorized Cusco products in the U.S. from an authorized GReddy dealer.

GAB is made by KYB.  KYB (and Tokico) make the majority of dampers in Japan.  It is heavily rumoured that Cusco gets their dampers (design) from KYB's help.

Knightsport brings in a lot of (well, more than other Japan shops) U.S. products and markets them.  I use to know one of their buying reps that regularly came to the U.S. for sales relations with major U.S. vendors.  What does it have to do with R.E.A.?  R.E.A. doesn't have such relations.


It's funny, cause that was my point.  Basic business mantra - always push your products.  In the Japanese economy, there are only a few companies which produce the majority of products for consumers.  Couple that with the fact that R.E.A. is pushing their turbo as the "best", one can't help be suspicious of such claims.  The Mitsubishi turbo is not the most efficient turbocharger design out there - look at the Garrett Ballsitics Concepts GT-series turbos?  HKS is even on the ball with their rebadged GT-series turbos built specially by Garrett.  I find it hard to believe that the TD-07 is "better" than either GT-series turbos, which are very popular in Japan and in the U.S. (hell, the world over).

Already, this is getting way OT, and my replies add nothing useful to this thread anymore, so it stops now.


-Ted

 

Still, what is your point? You have some dellusional ranting about Re amemiya being some sort bad guy for being in business and being successfull, you seem to have some sort of problem with the guy, I don't know if its spite or jealousy, but you really need to let it go here Ted. You werent really adding anything usefull anyway....
When you can actually post any kind of accomplishment, then maybe offer up your opinion of someone else product, when you do something worthy of getting your mug on the wall of Mazda HQ, make sure you drop us a line and lets us know that your expertise actually made it out of your living room...

 

Who was sticking their finger in the turbo..lol....The Mitus information is very elusive, when I get the stuff thats coming, I will take pictures and post every number I can find on them,.. I am going to dyno one of them on my car as well just to see what its like versus the t04e before I move up to the schwitzer...
I found a picture of all the mtisu turbos in a line in Rx-7 magazine(japanese), they have little cards on them showing what they are, at the very front is the Td06-25g, then a Td07-25a, then a few turbos back a 25g, the housing on the a is really alot bigger when you see it in a line like that..

I would guess since alot of FC's are being dismantled in Japan, is why the 25A is starting to show up on the for sale boards and what not, I found another 2 for sale last night, but I think the 2 I have already is enough... They all use a HKS standard wastegate on a divided stainless manifold...Some of those guys like do things the hard way though, one of the kits comes with a UIM with 4 extra injectors in it... I am guess 1600cc/min injectors are a north american thing...max

 

Ted- Ok, so I win then?

Max- Do you have any more info on the "exhaust system sensitive" nature of this turbo? I have small diameter primary runners and a very free flowing exhaust, perfect for boost creep issues...

 

This is wrong I get authorized cusco products from my Cusco distributer, he has nothing to do with Greddy but is one of, if not the, largest authorized distributer of Cusco.

-Sean

 

Getting ready to cut the hole in my turbine housing for the pipe to come out of it but want to make sure of a few things first. The first two pic's below are roughly the angle I'm shooting for BUT I'm not sure if cutting just one hole right in the center is the way to go. Will doing this screw with the exhaust pulses or because it's so close to the turbine wheel it doesn't matter? The 3rd pic shows how soon after the exhaust enters the turbine it's collected. When I had a look at a divided garrett turbine housing it looked to be collected a lot farther down stream than my mitsu. Any opinions?
Next is welding that piece of 304L SS to the cast iron housing. From asking many people I've gotten responces from, "nope, can't be done even with high nickel rod" to "yeah, just go at it with 308 filler rod". So... has anyone actually welded 304 -> cast iron with good success??

Thanks
Cam