jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

I am gathering parts for my new build and was tossing around the idea of a full hard line fuel system rather than rubber or braided hoses.
Has anyone done this or is it not recommended due to engine vibration? I would be using the stock hard line from the fuel tank to an inline fuel filter (flare the end and use a flared -6an fitting) then another flared -6an from the filter to the rails and then use flared hard line for the rest.
If this is a bad idea, then I'll just buy the full kit from FFE

Don Nguyen

I would use a combination of soft and hard lines. Hard lines for hot areas or if it is going underneath the car. Complex curves, I would go with a rubber hose.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

You'll need soft lines between any items that are not solid to each other.

Firewall to engine.
Fuel filter
Fuel tank to vehicle.

As far as a hard line setup between rails, its possible. Just be very very precise. But I don't see a performance benefit. Just bling/unique factors.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Yeah just trying other stuff out and what not, figured I'd need soft lines

Gilgamesh

stock fuel lines are 5/16ths (-5) -6 is 3/8s

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Are you talking about having new hard lines made for the vehicle? Or just using the pre-existing stock hard lines?

Making new fuel lines will run you $400-$500 for just standard (Summit Brand) -8 and -6 steel and nylon braded rubber fuel hoses. Add a bit more if you want to run PTFE lines and fittings. Having hard fuel lines made will likely cost significantly more (I've never priced it out) and ultimately do about the same job.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

I can buy 50' of 3/8" stainless tubing off ebay for $60 and the flared an fittings are about $6 a piece.
Basically my plan was this:

Fuel tank to inline filter using stock hard line with the end flared for a fitting to the filter. Then from the filter to the fuel rail using braided -6an hose. Then hard lines for the primary to secondary rail and to the FPR then braided -6an hose for the return to the stock hardline.

I just think it would look good?

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

So you want to use a mish-mash of stock, braided, and some -6 steel hard lines. Because it's going to look cooler???

Whatever floats your boat, I personally think it would be a bit of a waste of time. You might as well save some money and just keep the stock fuel lines for everything except the engine bay. But that's just me...

If you want to remove the stock fuel lines for some sort of flow/performance gain than remove ALL of them. If you just want to do it for looks than don't waste your time/effort on doing it where they won't be seen.

Do you have the time/capability to bend the steel lines yourself? If not, have you contacted a shop that can/will? Do you realize the sheer amount of labor that will be involved in making hard lines for just the engine bay?

I'm not poo-pooing your idea. I'm just not sure if you've considered everything that will be involved with it.

Vicoor

Actually bends can be a much tighter radius with hardlines than with hose. And they do look much better.



You need to make sure vibration doesnt cause a problem by anchoring the tubing adequately

I am currently working on hardlines for my friends FD. It is a lot of work, very tedious detail oriented kind of stuff. for me it's like therapy.

Like was said, really the only places where hose is necessary are places where there is a lot of movement, like between the engine and body. also where things need to be moved for service like at the filter and tank area. Running hardlines up and over the rear subframe would necessitate dropping the subframe. I'm doing hose in that area as well.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

And that's what I'm talking about ^

I've read numerous threads and articles on bending hardline for carb'd hot rods, didn't seem like it requires a special shop to do the work, just time and patience.
My fuel filter would be in the same spot as stock but would be an inline with -an fittings, so I d keep the stock hard line from the tank to the filter for the time being.

Thanks for the posts

Gilgamesh

i did rubber for fuel out of the tank into an aftermarket inline filter. the outlet on the fuel filter fed into the stock hardline with an AN fitting. which ran into the bay where i then adapted my hardline to braided AN

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Priced out the parts and its $60 including 5' of straight stainless tubing (I dont know if I want to deal with straightening a coiled tube). I can buy a flaring tool at Home Depot that people with air ride swear by for a decent price.
I'll be using FFE rails, ID 1000x4, Fuel Lab FPR, stainless hard lines, and havent decided on a filter yet, but so far thats $1000 with shipping and I bought extra fittings to do oil/water lines for the turbo.

I think thats a decent price considering I paid almost $500 for a used KG kit system with brutal Bosch 1600cc injectors that were a biatch to not have a vacuum leak and a stock primary rail and injectors with an aeromotive regulator which ended up leaking later.
I have decided to be more selective on used parts, and will not be using any used fuel system parts.

Speed of light

iTrader: (8)

I've done it both ways and prefer the result with hardlines based on my experience.

Additionally, There are different angles for the various flares in use so be sure that your tools and fittings are compatible. 37 deg and 45 deg are common and look about the same which can be problematic if you mix
them.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Yeah the fittings I'm ordering will require a 37 degree flare.
Anhy pictures from when you did the hardline setup?

Gilgamesh

why stainless tube vs. aluminum?

also summit sells the right 37* AN flare tool for $40

i buy most of my tubing and hardware and extra bolts to keep on hand from these guys...

Chrome Bolts, Stainless Steel Bolts, Metric Bolts, Socket Head Cap Screws, Grade 8 Bolts, F911 Bolts

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Just partial to SS I guess, no real reason.
If one buys a coil, whats the best way of flattening it without buying a $200 roll tool

deftones1868

iTrader: (19)

And THAT is the million dollar question. How to straighten a Roll perfectly straight. Ive come up with a few ideas but havn't put them to use yet.

86v8rx7

iTrader: (12)

If it comes in a roll it doesn't belong in your fuel system......... Stainless steel hard lines are the only way to go IMO.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

:
were do you buy 20ft hardline, or braided line perfectly straight?

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I tried that coiled 25 foot stuff that you get from Napa.
I tell ya,if you want an excuse to go ballistic,work with that stuff.

Vicoor

If you are dealing with -6 (3/8") or smaller you can get it pretty straight by hand. If you are using -8 (1/2") or larger, expect to have a real fight on your hands.

We got our tubing from inline tube and the coils were like very large paper clips with a good deal of straight between very large radius bends. If the tubing is not seamless, expect to have to use some form of conical seal like is available here;
seco seals also the wall thickness is important to getting smooth bends. for sizes larger than -6 you probably want to go with .035".

Get a good flare tool and benders. spend extra to make your job easier.

I made a roller straightener but the pulleys I used came from really cheap block and tackle from harbor freight. Turns out the pulleys aren't very concentric and it really hampers the tools use.

Victor

86v8rx7

iTrader: (12)

You can buy 20 or 24ft sticks from tube services or a hydraulics supply. I have done multiple cars this way and would never go back to hose for under the car.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

aluminum tubing works fine, cheaper and obviously easier to straighten out..

just startn

iTrader: (33)

Links to where you get your supply or any information, ie telephone number ect. Highly interested.