Haltech with J&S Safeguard?
Haltech with J&S Safeguard?
CROSSPOST FROM THE HALTECH FORUM
Gordon, I have an E6K and a J&S. I still haven't installed them since I am in the mddle of my Cosmo engine swap in my 1st Gen.
Is it possible - To wire in the J&S on the OUTPUT side of the Haltech, between the Haltech and the MSD6AL so that the knock sensor will retard timing upon knock, without it having to go through the Haltech?
From the thread above, it seems that we can't use the J&S with the Haltech on the INPUT side because of the slow response.
Please provide any info you, (or the other Haltech knowledgable guys) may have on this.
Before I get flamed, - I already have the J&S, so I want to use it. It is not just a case of engine tuning 101, so I don't need to hear that "you don't need the J&S" by everyone.
Thanks in advance.
Originally posted by gmonsen
hi, jay. i don;t think knock sensing works very well. certainly not as part of a separate system. when i first installed the haltech, i still had the j&s installed. it would retard the damned timing whenever it detected knock and meanwhile, the haltech was retarding it based, i think, on intake temps. it got screwy. i think the best thing to dpo relative to knock is just to tune it right with the wideband and perhaps install water injection.
anway, i'm looking for info on what, if anything the haltech does on its own to change timing, if anything? anybody know anything here? there's a correction map for inlet air temp correction and one for coolant temps.
the reason i'm asking this is that when i am dynoing and the amibient air temps are high (100+) and the intake air temp goes over 140, my timing seems to retard a good bit. anybody want to talk about this? thanks. gordon
hi, jay. i don;t think knock sensing works very well. certainly not as part of a separate system. when i first installed the haltech, i still had the j&s installed. it would retard the damned timing whenever it detected knock and meanwhile, the haltech was retarding it based, i think, on intake temps. it got screwy. i think the best thing to dpo relative to knock is just to tune it right with the wideband and perhaps install water injection.
anway, i'm looking for info on what, if anything the haltech does on its own to change timing, if anything? anybody know anything here? there's a correction map for inlet air temp correction and one for coolant temps.
the reason i'm asking this is that when i am dynoing and the amibient air temps are high (100+) and the intake air temp goes over 140, my timing seems to retard a good bit. anybody want to talk about this? thanks. gordon
Is it possible - To wire in the J&S on the OUTPUT side of the Haltech, between the Haltech and the MSD6AL so that the knock sensor will retard timing upon knock, without it having to go through the Haltech?
From the thread above, it seems that we can't use the J&S with the Haltech on the INPUT side because of the slow response.
Please provide any info you, (or the other Haltech knowledgable guys) may have on this.
Before I get flamed, - I already have the J&S, so I want to use it. It is not just a case of engine tuning 101, so I don't need to hear that "you don't need the J&S" by everyone.
Thanks in advance.
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Joined: Feb 2001
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From: n
I'd like to hear how you guys are changing the trailing spark at the same time the J&S starts to pull back timing on the leadings for this to work.  It certainly does NOT work effectively with the stock ignition system...
-Ted
-Ted
Originally posted by RETed
I'd like to hear how you guys are changing the trailing spark at the same time the J&S starts to pull back timing on the leadings for this to work.  It certainly does NOT work effectively with the stock ignition system...
-Ted
I'd like to hear how you guys are changing the trailing spark at the same time the J&S starts to pull back timing on the leadings for this to work.  It certainly does NOT work effectively with the stock ignition system...
-Ted
Frank
Originally posted by Flyrx7
Brings up a question I've been looking for an answer on. What system out there retards both the leading and the trailing? Does anyone know how well the knock control on the AEM ECU works?
Frank
Brings up a question I've been looking for an answer on. What system out there retards both the leading and the trailing? Does anyone know how well the knock control on the AEM ECU works?
Frank
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,279
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From: Florence, Alabama
perhaps i can be of some help Mike.
i am about a week from firing up my fd w lots of new mods, among them a J&S. i will be running pump and methanol and the buick guys tune their turbo'd systems by primarily using knock. i did some research on the J&S unit and eventually talked to the guy who created it... v knowledgable.
based on my research it is on my car and i expect to get great use out of it.
the current J&S can only retard the leading plugs. it can retard up to a maximum of 20 or 10 or 5 degrees depending on settings. since we generally run a maximum split of 14 degrees and it is essential that the lead not fire after the trail you would not run the 20 degree setting.
the newer versions have a boost port. IMO this is essential since it allows the unit to not retard until X boost. the reason this is important is we often run zero split in the vacuum portion of the map and if the unit retarded the lead it would be firing after the trail.
i run a Power FC and have no conflict issues w the J&S since the Power FC does not actively retard timing re to knock.
i suspect that the J&S will be of significant help to me this year.
howard coleman
i am about a week from firing up my fd w lots of new mods, among them a J&S. i will be running pump and methanol and the buick guys tune their turbo'd systems by primarily using knock. i did some research on the J&S unit and eventually talked to the guy who created it... v knowledgable.
based on my research it is on my car and i expect to get great use out of it.
the current J&S can only retard the leading plugs. it can retard up to a maximum of 20 or 10 or 5 degrees depending on settings. since we generally run a maximum split of 14 degrees and it is essential that the lead not fire after the trail you would not run the 20 degree setting.
the newer versions have a boost port. IMO this is essential since it allows the unit to not retard until X boost. the reason this is important is we often run zero split in the vacuum portion of the map and if the unit retarded the lead it would be firing after the trail.
i run a Power FC and have no conflict issues w the J&S since the Power FC does not actively retard timing re to knock.
i suspect that the J&S will be of significant help to me this year.
howard coleman
