I'm looking to get back into an RX7 and there is a built RX7 with the Greddy T78 kit on it. Just wanted to know how this kit compares to the other kits and any insight on it.

The car was also tuned by Kan but the car doesn't have a PowerFC (or at least it doesn't have the commander) Thanks!

 

Search. There is a lot of info on the T78. It is a very common turbo used on the RX7.

 

I used the T-78 on both my RX-7's. Nice setup that will make good power. Its probably not something I would choose if I was doing a kit today, but if it comes on the car then you will be happy with it.

 

Yea I did a few searches after I posted and saw that there were a lot of posts on these. Sorry. From some of the searches that I've done, this setup should be pushing around the 400rwhp range on low boost? (12psi?) And then they were all saying these turbos are able to push up to 20-25psi to break into the 500's?

 

Yep. Very proven turbo but old technology.

 

I'm at 454whp at 18lbs but thats low because an apex seal went through mine haha. So as you can see, even a damaged one isn't too bad.

 

How does the T78 compared to the T04E?

 

T-78 is a lot larger and will make more power.

 

That's like asking how does an Abrams tank compare to a Hummer

 

The Abrams faster

 

Haha thanks guys, I'm just looking at single turbo cars and I don't really know much about the single kits

T78 vs a T66?

 

go with a gt42

 

I am looking for an already singled car and these are the turbos the cars have on them. T78 or a T66

 

You'll be fine getting the T78 car.

 

hi you better go whit t78 it spool faster than t66

 

Isn't the T66 a smaller turbo than the T78? I would think a smaller turbo would spool faster and have less lag than a bigger turbo?

 

yes the t66 spool faster than t78 if they have the same hot side,is the hot side that make turbo spool, tangential spool faster than divide housing

 

This is the turbo setup on the T66

Innovative Turbo System T-66, water-cooled, dual ceramic ball bearing, Inconel shaft, P-trim 1.0 A/R divided hotside

 

^^That sounds like a much more modern turbo than a T-78. Why not just link us to the cars so we can see the entire thing?

 

No that was the T66 turbo, not the specs on the T78. I'm not interested in the T78 car anymore. Here is the spec list on the T66 car. I am pretty sure he is missing a few things (no upgraded injectors?) as I'm sure the car wouldn't be able to run right or as well as it should without these parts. How does the car sound? He said when the car was tuned, it was 100 degrees+ which is why he got the low numbers?

If I end up wanting a better turbo, am I able to just swap the turbo with a new turbo or will I have to get a new manifold and all these other parts? What kind of power potential does the T66 have on crappy California pump (91oct.)

BODY

* 99 spec bumper + lights (OEM)
* 99 spec taillights (OEM)

ENGINE

Dyno tuned by Steve Kan at cost of $600 in 2006. 406 dyno hp at high boost, race gas/364 dyno hp at low boost and pump gas.

Newly rebuilt street-port and exhaust-port by Rotorsportsracing. Motor completed in March 2006 and has less than 5k miles.

* Innovative Turbo System T-66, water-cooled, dual ceramic ball bearing, Inconel shaft, P-trim 1.0 A/R divided hotside (turbo alone cost about $1900). Compressor housing has polished exterior and Teflon coated interior to reduce temps.
Cast divided HKS manifold ceramic coated
3" HKS downpipe ceramic coated
50mm HKS Race wastegate plumbed into the downpipe with 2" flex section
Pettit resonated midpipe
* M2 dual tip polished, SS exhaust
* K&N 4" "Big Mouth" Cold Air Intake.
* Greddy 2-Row FMIC with welded Blitz BOV and Greddy elbow.
* AQUAMIST 1S water injection with LED.
* Greddy Profec-B SpecII electronic boost controller set 15psi and 21psi LO/HI respectively
* Odyssey battery with Gel Cel technology
* R1 dual oil coolers with 99spec ducts
*

FUEL

* APEXI BNR-33 fuel pump set for continuous 12v application ($450)

FUEL MANAGEMENT

* Apexi Power FC standalone fuel management system w/controller

DataLogit interface for PFC, Real time tuning and data logging at your fingertips!

SUSPENSION

* Complete Unobtanium nylon-66 bushings replacement with SS sleeves and Zerk grease fittings
* Widefoot (David Breslau's) aluminum sway bar mounts (to chassis)
* K2RD toe links and trailing arms w/dust caps

DRIVETRAIN

* SPEC 8.5 lb T6061 aluminum flywheel
* SPEC 6-puck, sprung hub, ceramic clutch

SOUND

Stereo is audiophile grade...sounds fantastically clean and well balanced.

* ECLIPSE 8061CD player (dead head--no pre-amp outs)
* ECLIPSE 8-disc changer
* ECLIPSE "Premium" 4-channel amplifier
* BOSTON ACOUSTIC PRO 60 (new) 6.5" component w/tweeter in door panels
* ECLIPSE 10" DVC aluminum subwoofer w/enclosure (not pictured)

 

There is no way in hell you'll be able to run that boost pressure on stock injectors. Find out exactly what type of fuel injectors it has.

Numbers are very low. Even on that hot of a day, it should still be higher at those boost pressures. 21psi on that turbo should be approaching the 500whp range.

 

That power was made on 13psi for low boost (364rwhp) and high boost (406rwhp) (which I'm guessing for when he was running race gas)

When I asked him, he said the previous owner had brought it to single, but he's 95% sure that it's 850cc and 1600cc injectors but he will get in contact with Steve Kan to get it confirmed. Like you said, there is no way a car would run on stock injectors. He has the fuel pump listed, but just forgot the injectors I guess.

Would I be able to make around 400+ safely on pump gas with that T66 setup?

 

It'll easily make that on pump gas.

It's even capable of 500whp on pump gas, just make sure you run A/I if you increase the boost past 15psi.

 

Sorry but what is A/I? Alcohol injection? As you can see I'm still learning.

I just want 400+rwhp on pump gas safely for me to drive on the streets and not pushing the engine/fueling to it's max. It will be used as a project/weekend car. No dragging, no AutoX, nothing, just driving and having some fun every now and then.

 

Alcohol or water injection. If all you want is 400whp, it is not needed, but I recomend it anyway.