Well after taking the plunge on dropping some cash for a street port motor, I decided to drop in an A-Spec GT3574 kit. After waiting a couple of months for the kit, I finally get it about a week and half ago.

Although it took Sean longer than promised to get the kit out to me, its a nice kit. And since I had asked to him to customize a kit to include my stock air pump to get past emission, he made some customization.

First he sent me out a milled LIM...after bolting the stock bolts to mount the intake, I snapped that bolt in the rear iron...broke a tip of an extractor in it and had to drill the damn thing out. Took out 5 days to accomplish this and here I am today:

 

Remove the OEM drain fitting off the front cover under the OMP the one in the kit fits directly to the front cover.


~S~

 

Now a few questions:

First and foremost, I am keeping my emissions stuff and air pump to get my plates back on the car...been sitting since 05. Once I get the emissions out of the way, I will replace the air pump with an idler pulley.

Now, under the UIM, the double-throttle solenoid, I kept that there because I am following the step-by-step by CrispyRx7 has 3 vac lines...one to the actuator, one to the front of the UIM, and the front vac line is just hanging free. Anyone know where I could plug this into? I've read around that I should take out this solenoid anyways...any thoughts?

The other thing, the a-spec comes with a stainless steel line to feed the turbo...normally the stock turbos gets fed from the banjo nut by the oil fill neck, but a-spec has a female AN fitting, anyone know the size of the banjo nut so I can replace it and get an adapter, I believe the ss line is a -4AN

 

lovely....

 

Hey Sean,

I did that at first, but it made tightening that AN fitting a pain since it kind of rubs up on the OMP..

Got a min to talk, need to ask you some things, give me a call pls

 

Ahhh, tighten the fitting to the line then put it on the front cover. If it fits in the car as you have it no worries, I just would be concerned about the extra leak point as well as the line hitting the frame rail. Also I did reply to your email, but I'll call ya.



~S~

 

Looking good, I love that oil filler neck. What does the rest of the setup consist of?

 

-polished just about as much as I could see.
-Greddy FMIC
-Aspec GT3574 kit
-Precision 46mm wg
-koyo rad
-0 miles street port block with 3mm seals, built by CrispyRX7
-supra fuel pump
-stainless steel fuel lines
-Aeromotive FRP
-850/1300 fuel injectors [couldn't go with aftermarket fuel rail since I was keeping EGR stuff
-dual oil coolers
-Defi gauges [oil press/fuel press/boost/Air-fuel/water temp]

I think that is it for now, but going with PFC for the ECU. I'm aiming for 425hp

 

i'm ordering hoses right now and not near my motor, does anyone know the hose sizes from the LIM nipple for the fuel injector atomizer? 6mm??

Also the one from the compressor housing outlet to Greddy IC? I got to get the pipe customized but planning on using the same diameter as the Greddy IC

 

I installed an A-Spec GT3574 this winter and am really enjoying it. You may want to think of installing thermal barrier foil on the intake while you have access. It adds a little "bling" as well...

 

where did you get the foil and turbo cover?

 

I got the foil at Summit. I found it worked best when I cut it into 1.5-2 inch wide strips. DEI makes the foil in strips as well although not sold through Summit.

The turbo cover is from ATP Turbo. I had to move the mounting holes and trim the shield a bit around the water lines.

I also use the PFC and have a very nice tune. My $0.02 get a quality, stand alone boost controller. I use the Greddy Profec B spec II, no screwing around...easy...

Guy

 

Lookin' good!

Just a couple things I'll throw out there...

Fuel: Might wanna add another pump or get a one higher flowing pump... over 400rwhp the supra will definitely be strechin it...

Boost controller: I really like my Profec S, simple, consistent and coolest part is it fits perfect in the A/C vent under the steering column...

You should easily hit 425, good luck!

 

Nice.....

+1 for the Profec controller. Don't waste your time like I did with other controllers....

Your clearance between the EGR block of plate and the hot side of the turbo is less then a quarter inch. Once you get rolling again, pull the LIM and get all that EGR stuff verticly milled off. It will increase the room between the LIM and hotside and allow you to run the ATP shield and thermal barrier and have enough room to flow air inbetween. Guys picture shows the GZ LIM with no EGR crap. I had the stocker milled. Both open the gap.

 

Here is a comparison of the most used electronic boost controllers: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/electronic-boost-controller-comparison-chart-952767/

If you want simplicity the Profec S is the way to go, although its features are limited in comparison to its competitors.

 

wow that is beautiful

 

Can anyone verify that the stock banjo nut is 14mmx1.25? The one adapter that came in the kit isn't a -4AN fitting, so I would need to get the right one

 

I'm looking over my setup and now I'm deciding whether I should swap the water lines that a-spec and go with stainless steel since I have about 5' leftover from my fuel setup.

Anyone know how to connect a stainless steel line to the water housing nipples? Not sure it I can get a flare on one of them [feed side] since its tight around there. Any suggestions?

 

oil fitting banjo is 14mm x 1.5

i got my from summit racing 14mmx 1.5 to 4 an

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-9919BFHERL/

 

nice setup you got there, i got the same oil filler neck on my setup.

 

looks great! im waiting for mine

 

Thanks for verifying that fitting for me.

And the fill neck is nice, I just need to get the 1/4"NPT fitting for it, are you venting yours to the atmosphere?

 

fingerlock, did you ceramic coat your housing since you are using the turbo cover? I'm deciding if I should coat mine, there is a local shop that I heard does incredible job and probably going to send out dp and manifold to get coated, just deciding if its worth it to do the turbo housing

 

catch can.

are you doing ceramic coating to the dp, turbine,lim.

 

silvercvic,

I did ceramic coat my housing, but it has since flaked off (~4 hours run time). If I were back at the build stage with what I now know, I would not coat the housing. But remember my car is track only and I'm at full boost for a large percentage of the time...

I did not coat the DP, just wrapped it...


Guy