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Garrett GT4288 on 13B

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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 06:37 PM
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Garrett GT4288 on 13B

Hi guys. I wil Probibly get torn apart for this thread but here goes. Iwant to go single turbo on my fd3s. I have a manifold and genuine brand new garrett GT4288 sitting in my garage. If I was to install this to my stock motor with suporting mods. Power fc etc what sort of power would I achieve and also would it ever spool? I'm Looking for cheap big bhp. Not bothered about responsiveness. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Gav.
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 06:41 PM
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T6 footprint with 1.22 hotside. 4" inlet etc
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 07:16 PM
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You could see into the 400rwhp with a good tune but depending on your driving style the motor wont last long
Might see a bit more with upgraded injectors and fuel pump and depends on the motor itself milage and how its been driven prior to modding could last you a day a week or 3 months like mine then its back to the engine stand
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 07:31 PM
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You'll be lucky to get a realiable 400whp on the stock motor. I'd say save up and do it right the first time....
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 05:19 AM
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cheers for the comments guys, the engine has done 4k kilometers since the last rebuild. i dont know if its been ported or not. i didnt want to take it all apart just yet. i was thinking 1000 primary injectors 1680 secondary, use the standard fuel pump as a (lift pump) into a mini swirl pot then to a bosch 044 inline pump to the rail. (i will be doing all this work myself. im good at mechanical work and fabrication i just lack knowlage of these engines.

if and when it blows i will be rebuilding it myself with 3mm apex seals but i will be sending it away to get ported.... or is this easy enough to do yourself? is it as simple as making sure the porting are the exact same size/shape?

do you think a 1.22 housing will be the laggiest thing on earth?

thanks for the comments guys
much appreciated
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 05:24 AM
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here are some pictures of the turbo. i made the manifold out of steam pipe just so i could figure outr a mounting position. wastgate size i was thinking 50mm tial.

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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 05:42 AM
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We have a FC with 13B pp Engine / Garrett GT4088 Turbo.
Boost *** over 5000 rpm ^^ Full Boost (0,5Bar) at 6500rpm.
And we have stoped the projekt, first we ned a streetport engine ^^.
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by turbotom
We have a FC with 13B pp Engine / Garrett GT4088 Turbo.
Boost *** over 5000 rpm ^^ Full Boost (0,5Bar) at 6500rpm.
And we have stoped the projekt, first we ned a streetport engine ^^.
thats brilliant news, are you using the 1.22 hotside?
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 09:48 AM
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Here's my contribution to this thread....

I'm running a built 13B (3mm RA superseals, large streetport, studded, RX8 e-shaft, brand new rotor housings, streetlight flywheel, etc) with a Borg Warner S366, and I made 540RWHP with 415RWTQ. The turbo has a 4" inlet and a .91 A/R divided hot side, so it is smaller than yours. I do believe you'll see significant lag with a hot side that large and stock ports. To be honest, I'd port the engine, and as long as it's apart I'd address any issues. There are many areas to address such as fueling, e-shaft flex, studding/pinning the motor (depending on how much power you're looking for), etc.

Depending on your tune, quality of fuel, and driving style, a stock motor may not last very long with that setup. It'd be a crying shame for you to break an apex seal, then it takes out your turbo. But if you just throw a turbo that size on a stock motor with stock ports, I think you'll be very unhappy with the response. I know you said that spool doesn't matter, but I believe you'll think differently once you actually FEEL the powerband.

For what it's worth, I see full boost around 4500 RPMs with my street port and BW S366.
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by TRWeiss1
Here's my contribution to this thread....

I'm running a built 13B (3mm RA superseals, large streetport, studded, RX8 e-shaft, brand new rotor housings, streetlight flywheel, etc) with a Borg Warner S366, and I made 540RWHP with 415RWTQ. The turbo has a 4" inlet and a .91 A/R divided hot side, so it is smaller than yours. I do believe you'll see significant lag with a hot side that large and stock ports. To be honest, I'd port the engine, and as long as it's apart I'd address any issues. There are many areas to address such as fueling, e-shaft flex, studding/pinning the motor (depending on how much power you're looking for), etc.

Depending on your tune, quality of fuel, and driving style, a stock motor may not last very long with that setup. It'd be a crying shame for you to break an apex seal, then it takes out your turbo. But if you just throw a turbo that size on a stock motor with stock ports, I think you'll be very unhappy with the response. I know you said that spool doesn't matter, but I believe you'll think differently once you actually FEEL the powerband.

For what it's worth, I see full boost around 4500 RPMs with my street port and BW S366.
thank you for your comment mate. i might just wait a bit and try and save. its just a shame that i have this turbo and i cant really do anything with it.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 07:33 PM
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In due time, jus have to do it right to really enjoy it more than a month
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 08:13 PM
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I have tried that very same turbo on my FC. I did make decent power with it. 365whp around 14psi. But it had zero fun factor when street driving. Very unresponsive. It was 3-4 years ago so I am not exact on the whp vs boost. I did not run the turbo very long because it was a dog to drive. Even with over 300whp. My current setup dyno 287whp at 13psi and it seams like a super car vs a echo when you compare the 2. And the fc engine was a half bridge with very little exhaust porting.

So maybe with some more exhaust porting it might get more responsive. It always depends on what you want to do with the car.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 08:46 AM
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^Exactly. You really don't want to go slapping a large turbo on a stock motor, for many reasons. However, IMHO, the only reason you need NOT to do it is how unresponsive the setup would be. It would be absolutely ZERO fun for daily/street driving...
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 13bdarren
I have tried that very same turbo on my FC. I did make decent power with it. 365whp around 14psi. But it had zero fun factor when street driving. Very unresponsive. It was 3-4 years ago so I am not exact on the whp vs boost. I did not run the turbo very long because it was a dog to drive. Even with over 300whp. My current setup dyno 287whp at 13psi and it seams like a super car vs a echo when you compare the 2. And the fc engine was a half bridge with very little exhaust porting.

So maybe with some more exhaust porting it might get more responsive. It always depends on what you want to do with the car.
Only 14psi? That's why it was so laggy, those big turbos are made & work best at high boost levels, do what you need to do to run a good 30 pounds & I bet you'll see a big difference
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 08:34 PM
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Agreed on the higher psi would increase the fun factor but on a street car that is not practical. lol I might try it again with more aggresive exhaust porting and more boost. It is still not a good choice of turbo. Much better options out there.
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 01:23 AM
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From experience a stock 13b motor would only make high 300's on a reliable tune and that's with a 11 afr.

For those people who claims 500+ on a stock block 1.3l engine must be impressive.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 12:27 PM
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enzo's brother did 700whp on a stock 13B like 3-4 years ago... in all honesty i think it's all in the tune, and fuel setup, and that's it. i'm running a T78 on a stock port 13B and I feel like it's great to drive on the street, it's laggy, but it's not as laggy as everybody makes it out to be. if anything that's what downshifting and brake boosting is for.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 12:37 PM
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REW block can handle that power easily, FC and earlier engines need to be doweled but there have been a few cases of FC turbo engines on stock ports running over 500WHP. an uncracked block will be more solid than one that has just been rebuilt and all surfaces cleaned and slippery. consider an old engine to be like having sandpaper wedged between all the mating surfaces which will grip much better and prevent twisting from breaking the seal.
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