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I have been planning my single turbo build the last few years. Unfortunately life got in the way, but I am refocused to get the build going. A LOT has changed in the past few years, let alone 20 when I did my last big build.
I wanted this thread to be focused solely on the Fuel System setup, with the goal of having other higher HP 2 rotor builders and experts chime in. I went down multiple rabbit holes and threads to try and put together what I think will be a good fuel setup for my goal. I am shooting for roughly 600-650rwp on E85(with meth/water injection) with the BW S366-SXE (13009097049-179905) T4 Divided, 1.0 AR. Assuming it will take up to 30PSI from the turbo to get to that level when I calculated fuel requirements. I have also read and spoke with multiple people that recommend running 4 Bar base fuel pressure to help the fuel atomize better as opposed to 3 Bar. Without getting into the motor or anything, else just wanted to focus on what I chose for the fuel setup to see what everyone thinks. I will have to add a fuel pressure sensor to the Radium secondary rail, but all sensors now have a remote mount with line. I also need to add in the Haltech fuel fuel sensor location. I assume its 6AN so I might add it on the return line since that will be 6AN.
I might be building overkill with 8AN lines, but the Radium and Fuelab parts are all 8AN. I am trying to overbuild where I can, so I figure go all 8AN everywhere except the return line. I am sure a lot of people might not like my idea with the single fuel pump and Holley Fuel mat over the Radium surge, but I am trying to avoid running multiple pumps. I have seen only positive things with the fuel mats. I will be running a Haltech R3 and will run a bigger gauge line from the powered out, to the pump and let the Pumps voltage booster do its thing.
Running the fuel system in Parallel. Please excuse my (not to scale) mapping, but I found it much easier to put the photos of the parts into Excel and map everything out instead of staring at a list. I have attached my Excel with parts list and links and a PDF of my fuel diagram. Please let me know if there are better options with regard to fitting/lines and parts. Would like to hear from other experience members. Sorry for my ameture-ish post, but I havent seen an updated fuel thread with more current parts list.
Logic is sound. Parts are good. I'm not a fan of the fuel lab stuff although it seems to be working for others fine. The hydramat only works if it's physically on the bottom of the tank so you either need to mount it remote or remove the stock baffle thing. I would be mindful of your injector duty though.
1750x4@4bar sounds like enough for your goal and if your calculations say it's enough then it probably is but it sounds a little light to me. I would suggest stepping the primaries down and going with a 4 injector secondary rail. You would be able to drop your base pressure and maintain something of a normal idle and very tolerable driving characteristics out of boost.
Edit: oops lol you are running 4 secondaries. I would suggest dropping the primaries down then and lowering the base pressure. See how it runs first of course
Logic is sound. Parts are good. I'm not a fan of the fuel lab stuff although it seems to be working for others fine. The hydramat only works if it's physically on the bottom of the tank so you either need to mount it remote or remove the stock baffle thing. I would be mindful of your injector duty though.
1750x4@4bar sounds like enough for your goal and if your calculations say it's enough then it probably is but it sounds a little light to me. I would suggest stepping the primaries down and going with a 4 injector secondary rail. You would be able to drop your base pressure and maintain something of a normal idle and very tolerable driving characteristics out of boost.
Edit: oops lol you are running 4 secondaries. I would suggest dropping the primaries down then and lowering the base pressure. See how it runs first of course
I was going to modify the stock gas tank baffle and cut 2 rectangles for the Hydramat to pass through. They have a mounting kit that will keep all of the arms at the bottom of the tank going in all 4 directions. I found a few threads where others have done the same with good success on multiple styles of cars.
Out of curiosity, what do you not like Fuelab? Are you talking about the fitting or the pump, filter, etc?
having only dealt with 1 fuel lab regulator and having it not work brand new turned me off. turns out it was missing the ball bearing on the top that pushes on the diaphragm. this was keeping it from making any kind of fuel pressure. on top of that, something about the design just didn't sit right. if i recall, there have been a few threads about people troubleshooting these things. we deal exclusively with aeromotive. we have only run into 1 bad regulator out the box in 6 years. to be fair, I'm sure more fuel lab regulators work than don't and I'm sure there are WAY more people that are using them with success than aren't. from a style standpoint and from a quality control standpoint, we're just not interested...... and yes, it only took 1 interaction to reach that conclusion lol