mazda_wes

iTrader: (6)

i knew that i was going to have to deal with fuel cut eventually, but i didn't think that it would be this soon. here are the specs:

S4 turbo II
short ram intake
3 inch turbo back exhaust

everything else is stock and i don't want to change a whole lot about it. all that i really want to do is run about 10-15 psi on a different turbo and intercooler, upgrade to 3 mm apex seals, and go stand-alone with the fuel and engine management. what do you think that i should do now for fuel cut? should i go with an R Tek and injectors, or something a little stronger than that? i am not even 100% sure what all of my options are here. i am new to rotary, so bear with me.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

this is better suited for the 2nd gen forum FYI...

Fair enough.

You say you want it relatively stock but then you talk about thousands worth of mods whether you realize it or not. Adding a standalone is basically changing the entire car due to the wiring involved, and it will require time and money for tuning. Standalones don't tend to run well out of the box, they are a big investment. And generally speaking you cannot change your apex seals without rebuilding your motor completely, and besides, 3mm apex seals are not considered an upgrade by many people. They are not automatically superior to the 2mm seals, which Mazda adopted in 1986 after ditching the factory 3mm seals from the 1st generation cars.

If you want to keep it relatively stock you will need to pull your turbo and port your wastegate to prevent serious boost creep which will damage your engine. http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/s4wastegate.htm . Your other option is to purchase a smaller BNR hybrid turbo (like stage 2) which already has an upgraded wastegate.

Then install 720 secondary injectors (with rewired and upgraded fuel pump) with at least an Rtek 1.7. That should keep the engine safe for 10psi with the stock intercooler and give you a 13 second car at probably 100mph.

mazda_wes

iTrader: (6)

i am planning on rebuilding the motor, but i don't want to go into porting or doweling or swapping out rotors. what i basically meant by not going into changing a lot is that i am not planning on building a 700 hp beast like a lot of builds. while that sounds interesting, i like driving the car the way that it is, but i just want to safely add some more boost. i don't want a crazy *** racing clutch that will make the drive more rough and i don't want to go deep into stuff like differential work and machine work.

i have access to welding shops, so any tubular fabrication that i need done, i can get done for cheap. i can even judge the quality of the fabrication since i do non-destructive testing. i need to add supporting mods at that point, but i only want to go with what i need. i only want to go with 720 cc injectors if that is all that i need. i don't want overkill in this build. money isn't a huge factor in this build since i have all of the time in the world to do it. this isn't a quick build that i am trying to get back on the road.

10thaniv

iTrader: (1)

get a FCD from Rotary Performance in Garland Tx. This will prevent fuel cut due to overboosting, >8psi.