Hello I am planning on getting a street ported s5 tii motor built by Atkins, already have greddy front mount, racing beat full 3" exhaust and an s4 turbo, manifold and ecu, I do plan on going with an aftermarket turbo and full stand alone however I want to get my car on the road sooner then I'll be able to afford that. My question is can I run rtek 2.0 on a street ported motor and stock turbo? I know the turbo will be pretty undersized for a street port but like I said I just want to get my car on the road and save up for the expensive goodies.
Also I know that I will have to adapt the s4 turbo wiring to work with the s5 motor.
Another question is can I run stock injectors with the rtek and street port or should I plan upgrading Injectors before the motor goes together? If so what size?


Thank you for any help!

 

Rtek 2.0 will be fine. You will want at least 1000cc fuel injectors, or you will run out of fuel...

http://turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=75

 

1000 cc for primary and secondary or? Can I get larger injectors then that to match whatever size turbo I end up going with later on and tune them down with the rtek?

 

I agree you should upgrade your injectors, at least the secondaries for now, assuming the rest of your fuel system is upgraded.

Then when you decide what turbo/ecu you will get, swap them secondaries to primary and get 1600s!!

 

Ok so with my current set up, run stock primaries and 1000cc secondaries? Just wanna make sure I get this right or it will be an expensive mistake lol.

 

I am really not familiar with rtek you should check with them if it can handle 1000cc.

Also any fuel system upgrade is never a mistake.

 

Yes stock primaries, and 1000cc secondaries. The stock 550 x 4 will run out of fuel @ 11psi regardless of pump size on a ported engine with stock turbo. I am pretty sure you can use 1000cc injectors with the 2.0, again best to ask them however..

 

Awesome thank you very much for the info and not flaming like most do on this site!

 

with a BNR stage 3 and a Rtek2.1 my 1000's(sec) are at 95% duty cycle.

 

Also, will a stock tii (n370) fuel pump be enough for my first setup with the 1000cc's?

 

no

 

Which fuel pump would you guys suggest? Is there one that will work for the stock turbo set up and aftermarket turbo set up down the road?

 

the popular fuel pump for TIIs is a walbro 255.

 

Sounds good, it looks like I'll be running an s4 turbo and exhaust manifold for the time being, can I rig that flap door on the Mani open or should I find all the parts necessary to make it functional?

 

For the best performance you should restore the functionality of the twin scroll system. It will work fine w/o it but you lose some low end. however, you said you have an S5 engine and n370 (s5 ecu) so twin scroll doesn't sound like an option for you. Why do you have an S4 turbo anyway?

 

Well, I picked up an s5 turbo swap. I'm planning on getting an Atkins s5 street ported block, (from what I've read it's better then s4 to my knowledge) was gonna get s4 turbo wiring harness afm and already have the s4 tii ecu. Swap came with a no good s5 turbo with cracked manifold. Found a what seems to be nice s4 turbo and mani locally for cheap so I figured run that for the time being. But I'm on here cuz I'm trying to learn this as I go from experienced people so please let me know if I'm going about this ackword bass.

 

Check out BNRsupercars.com for the differences between S4 and S5 turbos, mainly the S5 will flow more on the exhaust side, will spool just as good (but without the "quickspool" actuator) and the wastegate area is larger.

One problem I feel you will definitely encounter with a streetported block is that you will get boost creep with the S4 unit. The S5 has dual wastegate flappers, and once ported MAY be able to keep boost in check.

 

I have sort of a similar setup...

RTEK 2.0 on a kouki computer
Stock port kouki motor
kouki turbo

I have 720 ID primaries and 1000 ID secondaries with an aeromotive FPR and a warlbro pump. It's plenty of fuel for the setup.

I wasn't really happy with it until I added the aeromotive regulator. My OE FPR would heat up and give me fuel pressure problems.

 

Kouki is just jspec right?

Isn't boost creep only bad if you don't have supporting fuel mods and run out of fuel or can it still cause damage?

 

No. Kouki = late model = S5

Boost creep is always bad, it means that your system is doing something other than what you intended and that you cannot control. It may not always cost you an engine but it is never desireable ( or even tolerable depending how uncompromising you are).

550/720 is enough fuel for anything the stock turbo can muster, anything larger is just safety margin, nothing wrong with going larger, just not a requirement.

As far as the wiring, just use all your s4 accessories with the s5 short block , that makes things very easy.

 

If by accessories you mean intake manifolds and throttle body and such all I have is the s5 ones.

From what I've seen the twin scroll operates off of vacuum correct?

 

If all of your stuff is S5 why do you keep talking about S4?

The manifolds don't make a difference, but you will want an S4 TB and Front cover if you have an S4 wiring harness.

 

Because my car is an s4. I don't want issues with my interior harness. And I'm planning on premixing so don't much care about the front cover and tb.

 

Surprisingly, I'm not having any luck finding links to see what all I can delete from my wiring harness with my set-up and running rtek 2.1 and again with haltech...


Also, just wanna make sure that on a streetported block and stock turbo I can run oem primaries and 1000cc secondaries?

 

The stock wiring and an Rtek: use the injector wires,coolant,oil,tps,coils,AFM,boost sensor,etc.
I got rid of the solenoid ****.The engine was just injectors and sensors.Of course the AFM was still in the mix.
When you go Haltech you keep only the driver's side harness.The old stock ECU engine harness is taken out and replaced with the haltech harness.This harness will attach to injectors and sensors,coils.No Afm is needed with the Haltech.
Not the best Info,but I hope you get the drift.