does the water injection help lower temps as well?

We use it in the Falken FD drift car. Car has a Blitz radiator and a Blitz FMIC and we run the NPG+. The hottest we have gotten with the Evans is 106C off the AIM Digital dash. Before with water, it would boil over after running alot of laps consistently (like 6 or more in a row). We have never had any overhaeting issues with the Evans, and we switched from regular water to Evans at the track :D We just drained the coolant, filled with water a couple times (warming up, then drain and repeat) and then once we were getting just clear water out on the drain, we drained the whole car (radiator and block) and started the motor for 20-30 seconds to heat up any left over water to steam, and poured in the Evans. Not the right way to do it, but it worked. We have had the same Evans in the car now for over a year with no problems. On the new RX-8 we built, we are just running water/coolant because the setup is alot better with the v-mount and the radiator is a custom setup with dual cores, and double pass so we don't have any heat problems at all. But on the FD that liked to run hot, it worked like a charm.

Not sure, might help keep the EGT's down a bit, however, I listed all the bolt on's related to cooling and felt WI should be included.

I have run NPG+ for 2 years with 1.5 yearsi in Phoenix AZ. It runs hot like 120C with outside temp at 115F.

My dash gauge has recently started to move from the 9 oclock position with the PFC reading 105C. I think my heater core is clogged due to the block weld. I'm going to take the radiator out to flush it and bypass the heater core to see if this fixes the problem.

Here is some more information for a Rotax aircraft engine: http://www.caa.govt.nz/Airworthiness...ines/rotax.pdf

no wonder i always see those damn evans jugs laying around your shop =P I think I'll got his route as well.

What's the consensus on if you have a PFC and are planning to switch to Evans NPG+ ?

Do I still need to get it re-tuned since the Evans holds more heat ?

TIA,
:-) neil

I would guess only if you are planning on running more than 110C. Otherwise 100C is 100C whether you are using Evan's or not. The PFC won't know the difference.

I haven't seen more than 88C on temps; outside temps around 85F. The Evan's and V-mount works great. I also use a .9 bar cap without any problems. Evan's recommends that you at least run a normal pressure cap for a few cycles so you get all the air out of the system.

anyone know where to get the evans for cheap now? lol

eBay <--- link

I have been running evans for about 3 months now, IT IS THE GREATest

I havent seen over 180F in the heat of texas. Also running a electric water pump.

Running 7psi cap on the AST, the AST is the fill point for my custom system.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...t13b/evans.jpg

I've been running Evans NPGR for a few months now, in a custom cooling system with electric water pump. Cap is zero rated and swirl pot is just big enough to allow for expansion. Water temp is constant 68C except at standstill with fans cutting in at 86C.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...okia/002-1.jpg

Unfortunately, they want to charge you like $13 to ship ONE gallon.

The site below is less expensive ($27.50/gal), and the freight is $10 via UPS ground to the 48-contiguous states. That's $120 for four (4) gallons shipped!!

:-) neil

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...ction=category

PM Blake, (Pineapple Racing) and see if he would like to do a GB. I have'nt talked to him about it or anything, but he might be willing. CJ

wouldn't mind putting this stuff in my new rebuild.

Shipping is going to be the killer on any group buy of fluids, esp. heavy fluids.
A flat-rate of $8 or $10 for 4-gallons and a price of $27.50 is very inexpensive, IMHO.

Didn't the last Pineapple GB have batches shipped to various distribution regions c/o forum members.

IMHO, what a PITA.

:-) neil

Bumping this old thread. I'm interested in running this coolant and thought of a few questions.

Since NPG products don't mix well with water and such measures are taken to get all of the water/vapor out of the system, then how would you address the issue of water getting into the overflow tank? Driving in the rain, being very humid and the possibility of water getting thrown into the tank, and just moisture from the atmosphere (the overflow tank is vented). Water gets into the overflow tank, and is sucked into the engine with heating/cooling cycles, thus contaminating your NPG system.

And I'm curious as to how the expansion/contraction rates are compared to conventional water/coolant setups. Maybe the Evans expands much less than regular coolant at regular driving temps?

If that were the case, then a sealed system without an overflow tank would be possible. If the NPG only expanded to cause a few psi increase at normal operating temps, then you could safely run a sealed system and the system pressure wouldn't exceed that of what the stock radiator cap allows.

These are just random thoughts I've come up with since people are using NPG with 0psi pressure caps. Someone prove me wrong :)

i don't think it would hurt to run a sealed system. maybe an over flow tank that seals well.

the biggest benefit of evans is you don't need to run it pressurized. so i will keep the stock over flow tank. the contamination will be so minimal over a few years i wouldn't stress it.

I'm thinking the overflow tank has to be vented to work as designed. Otherwise pressure and vacuum would just develop in the overflow tank as the fluid expands and contracts.

And the more I think about it, I agree that contamination will be little to worry about. I guess it doesn't help that I have no fender liners though :wallbash: