Was trying to find a hose diagram for the single, and i found an uncolored/ unfinished one. So i decided to complete it with my bad *** photoshop skills (which are bad)

Enjoy!



Please let me know if i screwed anything up and i will fix it.

(i am not responsible for your car) <--- disclaimer

 

What is the point of the yellow hose, I am in the middle of doing my single conversion now, and I just capped it off at the lim, what is that there for?

 

the yellow hose has somethign to do with the omp (or so i am told)

 

thank you very much for doing this. i've had my single for 7 months, and the shop left all the rats nest in there. it bugs me to death and haven't had the time to drive it, let alone get rid of the extra **** it doesn't need. this will help tremendously.
thanks again mike.

 

You can eliminate the purple hoses also they aren't needed.

 

I am in the process of redoing all this also. I have eliminated all the solenoids and redid my wiring harness by eliminating all the uneeded clips. I personally have mine setup exactly like your diagram except I have eliminated the PCV valve as it is not necessary as long as you have the orange line hooked up. I would rather have the orange line instead of a pcv failure.

The yellow line puts air into the engine via the center housing. I have mine apart and I believe the air goes into the combustion chamber. I will check tomorrow and post back. I am keeping mine hooked up. I am also keeping the oil injector vacuum lines hooked up like stock by connecting them to the intake plumbing.

Mike

 

unless you cap the oil injector plugs you will have a vacuum leak with those lines open....

 

^
well if they go to any part of the intake tract before the throttle plate also ther would still be a leak. I thought however that they were one way valves.

Bob

 

you mean you capped where the pcv line comes from, right?
Cause otherwise there would be a huge boost and vacuum leak.

Bob

 

Not true.

The injectors are above the OMP and once the engine (and therefore OMP) is switched off the oil will siphon back down the OMP lines and into the pump. Then at the next engine start the OMP would have to prime the lines again before ever getting oil into the engine, thus starving it of OMP oil at startup.

That valve in the injector is like putting your finger over the tip of a straw. If you dip a straw into a glass of water the straw fills with water but runs out as soon as you lift it from the glass. If you put the straw into the water and then put your finger over the end you can then pull the straw out and hold the water in. That's exactly what the little valve on top of the OMP injector does; once vac is gone the diaphram closes across the top and holds the oil in the OMP lines so it can't drain back.

The OMP injectors would still function normally with the engine running without vac present on the valve, but the oil would siphon after shutdown. This means at startup the engine seals get no lubrication as the OMP has to prime the lines again.

 

Damon, am i not getting this? the lines on top of the oil injectors normally go open air at atmospheric pressure.....so why couldn't you just remove the lines?
Sorry, the analogie lost me, it sounded more like it would be better to cap the injectors off than have the lines there.

Or maybe you could explain it to me when you are up in philly.

 

SO any more insight on the yellow line, keep it to the turbo pipe or cap it off?

 

yes, I capped it at the UIM and at the Oil filler neck. The 94 and 95's do not even use the PCV as I understand. The factory eliminated it. I just did the same

mike

 

as my british friend would say, 6 of 1, 3+3 of the other. Damn brits.... There doesn't seem to be a best way. If you cap it you will run a little richer, and have to tune accordingly. If you keep it connected you will get more air to the combustion chambers and have to tune accordingly. I am still unsure of the exact reason Mazda put this thing here.

Mike

 

Mazda....go figure.

I thought the saying was 6, one half dozen, or the other. Sorry for straying way out in left field

Bob

 

Very true, not trying to sound like a *** but I know what they do and how they work, and I have been running this way for years, no problems, especially once you run premix they are pointless. Not saying your wrong just saying I've seen no ill effects on any of the motors I've run that way, so if you want to eliminate them you can.

 

You don't need the to run the blue line. You can vent the charcoal can and remove the solonoid and catch tank. The same goes for the pretty aqua marine green line you got there. Cap it off as well.

 

Thats the aqual marine line to the purge control valve, not the wastegate line /LOL.
The red dots you have on the LIM there also do not need caps, they can vent open air.

 

We say "6 of one, half dozen of the other. My Jordie friend, who we affectionately call limey Dave, says "6 of one, two 3's of the other" to be exact.

and now back to the local programing....

 

DONT CAP THOSE NIPPLES!!!!!
Those vacuum lines are to vent air from the oil injectors.
The oil injectors have a 1-way check valve built into them and the only purpose for the vacuum lines running back into the intake pipe is for emissions and so you dont hear them venting air. If you cap them they wont work like there supposed to.
Just run the vacuum line to the back of the motor and let it vent to the atmosphere.

 

The OMP injectors dont use a vacuum. The vacuum lines running to the intake are for venting purposes and emissions only. There is a 1-way check valve built into those injectors allowing air OUT and not in, so there is no possible way for them to use vacuum. The oil is brought up those lines via the "oil metering pump" thats why it is called a pump.

 

For those that questioned: The yellow line that comes from the lower manifold is used in the factory Injector application to pressurize the factory injector o-rings when the car comes into boost. if you have replaced the factory injectors with diff aftermarket oned then u have no use for it and u may block this off. U dont want this hose braking under boost. this can cause severe damage

 

I'm looking around my injector ports on the FC as I have everything disassembled for rebuild.

Fuel injectors? I lack venting of the fuel injector o-ring area to any air pressure lines, it's merely a clean bore of aluminum in which the seals press; one end with fuel, the other end with intake runner. My shop manual does not document any ducting specifically for o-ring pressurization.

I've not read of how this boost pumbing would leak past an o-ring and affect idle or cause leaning during boost. Anyone know of this?

 

Ok, I looked at a 3rd gen engine that is apart at Maztech. On the LIM there is a hole that exits the manifold just above the primary intake ports. This hole is fed air via the nipple with the yellow line as stated. This hole, lines up with a slot on the center housing just above the two intake ports. This slot has two small holes that pass through into the injector seat/ oring area. One hole for each injector. They do not go into the engine as I previously thought. They are as decribed in the quote above. I would like to know in more detail, how it works.

By the way, I also looked at a center housing from a different year/model, and it had these two holes also. I assume it was a 2nd gen turbo motor but I am not sure. Jeff was busy and I was not able to find out. Many people just cap this line yet have the stock primaries I believe this is from lack of understanding its exact function. If we don't know what it does, then we don't need it. Just cap it is what i always get for a response. Mazda put it on multiple years so it is not unique to the 3rd gens' over needed systems and must be important. I have kept mine functional but the majority of people I have asked are always unsure what it does and just say cap it.

Mike

 

bump