blowing an N/A (up)
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blowing an N/A (up)
gonna be doing a motor swap before too long, but i am going to be turboing the N/A first. What kind of boost do you think it could handle? ill be running 550/750 with an SAFCII, also getting rid of emissions. I'll be building a manifold and using a T-70 turbo (gonna go on the engine i am swapping). Also be using an A/W intercooler.
i figure i will drive it at 10# but would like to take it to the track and just boost the hell out of it (as far as the injectors will go anyways) I dont have to worry about blowig it up or anything as i am swapping anyways.
i figure i will drive it at 10# but would like to take it to the track and just boost the hell out of it (as far as the injectors will go anyways) I dont have to worry about blowig it up or anything as i am swapping anyways.
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Ironic, because the guys at Rotary Performance, (Rx7.com), who run a 10 second FD, said that a SAFC would be perfectly fine for my Turbo NA build. Obviously a standalone is better, but used SAFC II for $150 is much easier on a marriage than a $1200-$2000 Haltech.
edit: To actually answer the question, instead of just weighing in with my opinion about how you need another $3000 before attempting this:
Use a wideband o2 to read your exhaust mix, and use your SAFC to tune it to around 12. You'd have to figure out how much percent of correction you're running to figure out how much further you can go. I'd creep up on it though, and err on the side of caution. You don't get as fine a tune with a SAFC, because it won't auto-retard your timing for you or anything, but there's no reason you can't make a pretty good amount of power with it, as long as you keep on top of the fuel supply.
edit: To actually answer the question, instead of just weighing in with my opinion about how you need another $3000 before attempting this:
Use a wideband o2 to read your exhaust mix, and use your SAFC to tune it to around 12. You'd have to figure out how much percent of correction you're running to figure out how much further you can go. I'd creep up on it though, and err on the side of caution. You don't get as fine a tune with a SAFC, because it won't auto-retard your timing for you or anything, but there's no reason you can't make a pretty good amount of power with it, as long as you keep on top of the fuel supply.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Richter12x2
Ironic, because the guys at Rotary Performance, (Rx7.com), who run a 10 second FD, said that a SAFC would be perfectly fine for my Turbo NA build. Obviously a standalone is better, but used SAFC II for $150 is much easier on a marriage than a $1200-$2000 Haltech.
edit: To actually answer the question, instead of just weighing in with my opinion about how you need another $3000 before attempting this:
Use a wideband o2 to read your exhaust mix, and use your SAFC to tune it to around 12. You'd have to figure out how much percent of correction you're running to figure out how much further you can go. I'd creep up on it though, and err on the side of caution. You don't get as fine a tune with a SAFC, because it won't auto-retard your timing for you or anything, but there's no reason you can't make a pretty good amount of power with it, as long as you keep on top of the fuel supply.
edit: To actually answer the question, instead of just weighing in with my opinion about how you need another $3000 before attempting this:
Use a wideband o2 to read your exhaust mix, and use your SAFC to tune it to around 12. You'd have to figure out how much percent of correction you're running to figure out how much further you can go. I'd creep up on it though, and err on the side of caution. You don't get as fine a tune with a SAFC, because it won't auto-retard your timing for you or anything, but there's no reason you can't make a pretty good amount of power with it, as long as you keep on top of the fuel supply.
~Mike..............
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Taste great, more filling
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Sweet. I'm good then. I haven't spec'd out a T70 so I didn't realize he was looking at 350 hp. When the HP numbers go up, the odds of breaking something because of a lack of good tuning becomes more critical, so if you're going to be in that ballpark, you'd be better suited for something that allows super fine control like that.
Like he said, different equipment for different goals. I'm looking at 80-100 more hp for what would ideally be 30-50k miles or better. If you're going for something that strong, it'd be better to wait until you get the supporting mods and play it safe until then. Although if you've got a handful of turbos in the garage and just want to play until it all pops, then that's your choice too. But like he said, be prepared to write off your hotside if it chucks seals.
Like he said, different equipment for different goals. I'm looking at 80-100 more hp for what would ideally be 30-50k miles or better. If you're going for something that strong, it'd be better to wait until you get the supporting mods and play it safe until then. Although if you've got a handful of turbos in the garage and just want to play until it all pops, then that's your choice too. But like he said, be prepared to write off your hotside if it chucks seals.
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i have decided to "join the dark side" sooner and just sell the engine and everythign rather than messing with it. I can use the money for more mods to the 5.0 thats going in ; )
T-70 is a good size for a 302 so guess ill be using it anyways....
T-70 is a good size for a 302 so guess ill be using it anyways....
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