So, for now I should use the stock flywheel instead of my 9.5 lb current flywheel? I'd rather not dump any money into a flywheel since I'm going to be switching to a automatic in a few months.

Stock flywheel or stay with my current 9.5lb?

 

Arr right I see now pluto cheers.

 

i had the steel racing beat one in... accleration was improved in the lower gears. didnt have the problem of the 9lb people where you drop out of band if your not really quick. its really nice for daily driving... also the steel one is better with heat i heard. if anyone wants one i have another racing beat flywheel brand new with all new hardware and counter balence!!! pm me for interest

 

I'm talking about for drag racing. My car drops out of boost between shift. My car looks like a leap frog jumping up and down between shifts. It's ree-damn-diculous.

 

You know if you go from a 9.5lb flywheel to a 20.5lb flywheel....your curb weight will go back above 2300lbs.

I ran a Racing Beat lightweight steel flywheel on my T78 RX7 a while back...it was a 17lb flywheel. I would not run a 9lb flywheel on a drag car, aluminum is a better disaptor for heat then steel, but the sacrafice in rotational mass at the center of inertia isn't worth the trade off compared to a heavier steel flywheel. You should just go auto now and not worry about it, why wait a few months. It's still winter and cold, make it happen.

 

I'm working on making my car legal, then I'm throwing the auto in. I don't have the long money like you

Trust me, my car will stay under 2,300 lbs

 

In that case then stay with the stock flywheel. The only thing better than the stock flywheel would be one with more inertia meaning more weight especialy if it's located towards the outer edge.. That's when your ET's are going to realy drop. For your set up something around 25lbs is a good start. I've used everything from 40lbs down!

 

Right on, I'll dump my 9lb and toss in the stock flywheel

Thanks bud!

40lbs!! Dang!!

 

But if you go with too much weight then you get into more traction issues..but the stocker is the way to go.

 

lol yeah or the racing beat that im selling

 

I have the 12lb Racing Beat Flywheel... that thing works out great. It's not too light, and it's heavy enough to allow me to go through the RPM range with lots of boost. I had that option or going 9lb, I stuck with Racing Beat (you can buy resurfacing plates for them too which I like)

BTW If you get one new.. RB's website has them for $390, compared to RX7stores $455 (RIP)

 

I'm going to use the stock flywheel until I put the automatic in.

Anyone want a 9.5 lb SR Motorsports Alluminum flywheel with 4,000 miles on it?

 

I'll ask around see if anyone is looking for one, PM me or post your asking price.

 

$215 shipped

 

i might be interested... what kinda shape is it in? hows the friction material more importantly.

 

it's got some dark spots on it but you can still have it resurfaced. It holds close to 700hp right now so I doubt you have problems with it

 

Hey lupe what size of blow off valve are you using. This is just some thing we found on our big turbo cars, we are running 2X 50mm blow off valves and the lag gets a lot better between shifts. Just an Idea to throw around. Ralph

 

I'm using the biggest tial bov.

 

yeah we went to 2 of those. Precision turbo told us that the big tubo applications they recomend 2 each. We did this on our honda with a 71gts and it really made a big difference.
The only thing is, all of us use differen weight flywheels and cluthces so I dont know what the different combonations do, just throwing up some different Ideas. Chrispeed, what is your take on this, am I full of sHxxx?

 

When you're dealing with the stock clutch style configuration then weight is pretty dependent on flywheel. Throw in a lightweight twin disc then the total package becomes important. For a setup like Luke's if you're using a twin disc then the flywheel must be heavier to compensate for the lightweight clutch and lost of inertia especialy due to the small diameter of the clutch most of the weight is concentrated to the inside. For example my buddies twin 11 inch slipper clutch/flywheel combo weighs in at 40lbs of which only 10lbs is the flywheel weight. Now remember we're speaking about a specific combination here meaning full drag type setup launching with half to full power with slicks and suspension to match. A full street,strret/strip,rally,autocross or road race combo is a whole new ball game.

 

because of gas these days and since your making your car street legal. that stock flywheel will do wonders. However sacraficing continuous momentum for faster acceleration. i would just keep the lightweight flywheel in exchange for quicker shifts. Just my .02cents.

 

My gas is $10 a gallon, mpg is out the window with me. I put down 603 to the ground and my FD weighs 2,295. I doubt acceleration will be noticeable when I put the stock flywheel back in.

 

FYI: I went with the stock flywheel

 

You went from the 9lb flywheel back to the stock 19lb flywheel right?

I have a 12lb, i've considered putting the stock one back in so I can get a better power band on the KAI.

 

Not sure how much the stock flywheel weighs but I sold my 9.5 lb flywheel + counterweight and I installed the stock flywheel.

I did this to help maintain rotating mass between shifts and hopefully it will help me yank the wheels