I know there is a ton of info about single turbo set ups but I didn't find anything really specific to my needs.

First off the engine is a 93 13BTT and it will be going into a 68 VW beetle. The bug will not be a drag only bug. I plan to use this as a daily driver. To me 255+ hp in a mostly stock bug (aside from the safety upgrades to take the rotary) is to much. Then add in shorter exhaust and as many of the emissions as I can get off..you have a ton of HP. My question then is, what turbo do you recommend I swap in place of the twins? I would like to limit the horse power to around 200 but I am sure this isn't really possible but I would certainly like to make sure i don't go higher then 255 hp if that can be done without making the engine run like a dog, if you know what I mean. Any constructive advice would be appreciated.

 

Use the turbo 2 motor that's 200hp stock.

 

Why don't you want the twins?

 

lol thought I explained that....more horse power then I really need want in a bug and the fact that it might be hard fitting it into the bug with twins.


Force13B, ya thats what I was originally searching for but I ended up going with the 13Btt because it was such a good deal.

 

Just use it as an NA if power is an issue, even easier to fit into the car then.

 

I thought about that but since it was designed as a turbo..would running it NA make it run like a sick dog? Isn't there a decent single turbo I could use though. I really like to run a turbo..I just bought more engine then I really need.

 

A good running 89+ n/a engine can crank out 170+rwhp if properly built, and tuned. I made 167rwhp on a mustang dyno with my old 90 Rx-7 while still using the stock computer/piggy back system. A slighly ported motor built by Rob at Pineapple, Racing beat exhaust, Pineapple 6 port sleeves, and a cone filter. If you where to go to a aftermarket ecu, you could get rid of the MAF sensor, making alot more power than I ever did. Infact, I would'nt doubt you could make nearly 180+rwhp.

The nice thing about a n/a setup is its easier to control over heating, you can run low grade fuel, and the torque is nowhere near a turbo car. (I'm thinking about saving transaxles) My car had a pleasant tone, and made nice power from 4000 to 8,550rpm where the rev limiter would step in. (It made peak hp at 7,5k rpms, and peak torque at nearly 7k rpms.)

I don't know how a 93+ engine would handle n/a forum, but I don't think it would be that bad....or the option would be to sell the 93 engine, and build a n/a engine.

CJ

 

Saving transaxles and trying to get traction with a stock TII turbo or even worse the 3rd gen twins is going to be hard.

To point out how much more torque a turbo provides the Yamaguchi 2nd gen bible states the '87 TII made 20% more torque at 1,500rpm than the '87 NA made at its peak torque. Furthermore, I believe it is stated to deliver over 150FT/lbs from 2,200rpm to redline (180ft/lbs peak).

The 3rd gen sequential twins just exaggerated this low rpm torque while adding substatial high RPM gains.

Any exhaust you will be able to fit in the bug is ging to be more free flowing than the stock TII exhaust (2 catylitics and 2.5" diameter) and will create more low rpm torque from earlier turbo spool.

Obviously, I think the power production of a NA 13b (especially with a short runner intake) will suit the chassis better and provide more reliability.

If you can spend the $$ for a serious monster turbo would definitely be the way to go

 

Thanks alot guys for the awesome advice! My choices are limited to the current motor. I could maybe get more out of the motor by selling it then I did buying it (very good price ..I think so anyway) but trying to find a 13B around here is a real pain. I'm going to stick with the current 93 13BTT but I would consider running it NA. I am pretty new to rotaries so the help here has been great. My main concern still is if running this 13BTT in NA form will make it run like a sick dog. If the "pros" can confirm that it will run great still just lower hp and torque then I'm all for it.

Secondly, I want to run the EFI instead of carbed but if I go NA with this mortor, is there anything I will need to do? I plan on running aftermarket ECU...thinking the FC unless someone here recommends something better but cheaper or same price.

THanks again guys for the info and please keep it coming!

Sorry, I guess my topic is starting to get off topic.

 

For the quote with stars. +1

 

Is'nt FD rotors 9.0-1 and a 89+ motor 9.4-1? If this was the case, it realy should'nt be much of a difference in bottom end/overall power. CJ

 

So your confirming it will be fine running NA? That would be cool then if later I decide to go more power i can toss in a turbo. How about the ECU and harness? ANything differant I would need to do?

 

when i bought my car, 94 by the way, it had a coupler missing. meaning i was running with no boost! " so , im guessing i was a NA at the time" and ran fine. after i got that problem fixed is when the rest of the problems started!

--Gmo--

 

Isn't that always the case

Well sounds like it should be ok running NA on the turbo motor so I'll go that route..if I don't like it I can always go turbo. What would be a good aftermarket ECU?

 

If you have the stock wiring harness still, I recomend the power FC. It would be plug and play for the most part. If you need to do all the wiring still, alot of people run the haltech. I've never had anything to do with a haltech though. I'm shure someone else could chime in. CJ

 

The power FC was actually my first choice. I should have the whole wireing harness

 

You can run an FD without the turbo. To pass California smog easily, I've known of people who disconnect the intercooler piping, ensuring that turbocharged air does not enter the intake manifold. The car runs just fine N/A, even with the stock ECU. It passes smog beautifully, too.


If you can install a rotary in a bug, I'm sure you could have a custom non-turbo exhaust manifold built, as well as some custom intake piping. It should be plenty fast for a VW.

-s-

 

Good info thanks Emissions is one thing i am a bit worried about. Even if i did run the turbo I wouldn't have an intercooler. No place to put it hehe. I won't be running the stock ECU, mostly because I'm not going to be getting it with the engine and think an aftermarket would be better anyway. The power FC has come down alot in price since I first saw it a few years back and comes with the commander now instead of seperate...it's going to be some time before i can get this engine in anyway but I am writing all the good info down for later so thanks again for helping me out guys.

 

if you really really still want a turbo but 255 is too much power, the t2 turbo's bolt right on, and should do approximately 220ish hp at the wheels....

 

ya thought about that too but with my shorter exhaust and direct power to the wheels in a bug..it's probably going to be even higher then that. As it is my tranny isn't strong enough for a 13B in stock form so I am figuring on blowing the tranny shortly after getting any motor. Once it blows I'll get a stronger one built and might go turbo at that time. I've never driven a bug with more then stock HP so witht he 13BTT in NA form, it's going to scare the poo right out of me as it is lol.