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90 degree silicone couplers. Anyone use them?

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Old 12-22-04, 07:42 PM
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90 degree silicone couplers. Anyone use them?

I've decided to re-do my IC piping. Seems like I'm allways blowing off the coupler between the turbo and the first IC pipe. Anyways, the reason is because there is such little room for a proper surface for the clamp to hold on to. Anyways, I was wondering if anyone has ran one of the ATP 90* elbows? As most of you guys know, space is a major problem with routing a IC pipe. Seems like this would be the easiest way to do it. Any thoughts? CJ
Old 12-22-04, 07:52 PM
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I use one, however its with the stockers. 13psi and it holds wonderfully
Old 12-22-04, 11:07 PM
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I'm going to start running one to clean up my current setup. Freaking $40 coupling!
Old 12-22-04, 11:24 PM
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I run one and at 15psi it keeps blowing off my turbo after a couple of hard runs.... doesn't matter how much I tighten it. It may just be my setup though.... who knows. I'll be welding an elbow on this winter however
Old 12-23-04, 01:20 AM
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I have the same problem to.
Old 12-23-04, 07:15 AM
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I run one.. it was made/branded by turbonetics (for 90 freaking dollars) but works fine. It's heavy, very smooth inside and hasn't budged at 15 lbs or so.

http://dave.newbern.org/gallery/album01/finishedpiping
Old 12-23-04, 11:30 AM
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Take the time to pull the comp cover off and weld on a elbow you will never have this problem again.
Old 12-23-04, 02:16 PM
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I am running one also. Samco brand. Have run up to 20psi with no problems. But I did wear a hole in it from the strut tower bar rubbing on it.. So ordered another one. Both were around $90. The Samco is more like a mandrel bend 90 degree were as some of the others will be a complete 90 and loose some area... I agree with Sean on removing the comp cover and just shortening it or welding onto it but it is kinda hard to cut up your new turbo!!
Old 12-23-04, 04:34 PM
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Another alternative if wear through is likely is the cast aluminum 90s on ebay. The nice thing about the silicone ones is they eliminate two couplers. Vendors know this, and price accordingly. Also do a search for Nitrile 90s, and hose. Nitrile costs ~1/2, and is more durable. The down side is it cannot handle the heat silicone can. The up side is it can handle anything short of the hotside of your turbo. Another product that is excellent for intake ducting is the same hose used for brake ducting. It is available up to 4", and most suppliers offer it in Nitrile for about 40% less than the silicone version. Again, no worries, it can handle the heat, including brake ducting. RRE has some of the rigid nitrile, but they mark it up so it is somewhat of a savings, but not asmuch as if you buy from an industrial supply house. at an industrial supply place it runs ~15-19.00 for a 90, and ~5.00 a ft for straight 2.5". You can also buy lengths of nitrile hose, and make your own couplers for cheap(comparitively), All the old HKS, Turbonetics, Cartech and Greddy kits used Nitrile until silicone became the fashion. Many of you are using it already, it is the black 3, or4 ply wrapped hose included in many budget turbo kits(and some not so budget). Happy Holidays, Carl
Old 12-23-04, 04:57 PM
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I think its pretty gay to make a coupler take the place of intercooler piping
have pipes made to fit perfectly and you wont have a problem. My friend made me custom pipes from mandrel aluminum and I polished them its incredible but I realize not many people have access to a pro fabricator. Im using hose clamps on my intercooler pipes everywhere except for on the compressor housing where I have 2 tbolt clamps and never had an issue at 21psi just recently or on the dyno at 22-23 psi a couple months ago.

Proper silicone couplers and t-bolt clamps and you are set
you also have to have the right angle pipe for it to tighten properly

good luck and if you need intercooler pipes made you can pm me we could copy what you have now but just make it look nice etc...
Old 12-23-04, 08:41 PM
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I like the idea of having a mandral bent IC pipe, but there is'nt much room for it. As it is now, with the 3" IC pipe it can rub the hood if its not placed perfectly. My SR II with the XS cast has the turbo a little to high (In my opinion. )

I whent down to the local exhaust shop and orderd a 2.5" mandrel bend. I'm going to see if that will make it better....but if it does'nt I'm going to try the 90* elbow or do like Sean says, and have a 90 welded onto my turbo. CJ
Old 12-23-04, 10:50 PM
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well I guess it depends which manifold you are using and the size of the compressor housing.

Im using the hks ss manifold with a 62-1 turbo and had t-66 before and have absolutely 0 clearance problems using 3" mandrel bent piping

either way I think those couplers look fruity. Id get the housing welded if I had to...and I dont think you'de need to take the compressor housing off to do the welding




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