500rwhp fuel set-up
05-07-07, 12:47 PM
#26
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
re Kenne Bell Boost A Pump durability.......
i have run my BAP for 3 years to date.
since it is capable of raising volts to the pump zero to 50% maybe pump failures occurred due to the user dialing the volts up too much.
i digitally log fuel pressure and i know that plus 20% is enough to run my 850/1600s to 90% duty cycle w no fall off in pressure. i retained the OEM steel lines up to the motor BTW.
sure is simple and it works.... but only when needed.
howard
i have run my BAP for 3 years to date.
since it is capable of raising volts to the pump zero to 50% maybe pump failures occurred due to the user dialing the volts up too much.
i digitally log fuel pressure and i know that plus 20% is enough to run my 850/1600s to 90% duty cycle w no fall off in pressure. i retained the OEM steel lines up to the motor BTW.
sure is simple and it works.... but only when needed.
howard
05-07-07, 06:44 PM
#28
covered in dust
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: new mexico
Posts: 451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Where can i find a surge tank? I know rotary extreme used to make one, but i don't know who to find one from now. I would like something I can mount under the car so I dont have to have a fuel cell inside the car.
05-07-07, 07:28 PM
#29
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
re Kenne Bell Boost A Pump durability.......
i have run my BAP for 3 years to date.
since it is capable of raising volts to the pump zero to 50% maybe pump failures occurred due to the user dialing the volts up too much.
i digitally log fuel pressure and i know that plus 20% is enough to run my 850/1600s to 90% duty cycle w no fall off in pressure. i retained the OEM steel lines up to the motor BTW.
sure is simple and it works.... but only when needed.
howard
i have run my BAP for 3 years to date.
since it is capable of raising volts to the pump zero to 50% maybe pump failures occurred due to the user dialing the volts up too much.
i digitally log fuel pressure and i know that plus 20% is enough to run my 850/1600s to 90% duty cycle w no fall off in pressure. i retained the OEM steel lines up to the motor BTW.
sure is simple and it works.... but only when needed.
howard
I have a few electronics engieers at my work and have asked them about this and they see no issues whatsoever especialy in a in tank situation where the pump is cooled by the fuel surrounding it, they actualy told me its a great idea and wondered why more people were not doing it this way?
Big deal, pump fails engine stops ayway better than having a twin pump system where one pump fials and then engine breaks
The body of evidence suggests there is little likely hood of failure due to the BAP. I will run mine at full capacity on test bench but am very confident of its durability for intank applications.
05-07-07, 07:48 PM
#30
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
30 amp... i bought it from Kenne Bell.
BTW, MSD makes a unit. one of the drawbacks is you have to run a vacuum/pressure line to the unit. since the logical place for my BAP module was near my fuel pump and battery (behind passenger seat) the signal hose didn't work for me. the Kenne Bell unit has a neat little pressure diaphragm that triggers an electronic signal. the diaphragm is easily mounted in the engine compartment and a wire carries the signal to my pass side compartment behind the seat. i have the adj dial also mounted in the compartment and should i wish i can just reach over and dial it up.
hc
BTW, MSD makes a unit. one of the drawbacks is you have to run a vacuum/pressure line to the unit. since the logical place for my BAP module was near my fuel pump and battery (behind passenger seat) the signal hose didn't work for me. the Kenne Bell unit has a neat little pressure diaphragm that triggers an electronic signal. the diaphragm is easily mounted in the engine compartment and a wire carries the signal to my pass side compartment behind the seat. i have the adj dial also mounted in the compartment and should i wish i can just reach over and dial it up.
hc
05-07-07, 07:49 PM
#31
Good to hear your success. Just so it's clear I'm not sure what the deal was with the failures, most of the ones I heard were being attributed to varying the voltage to something that wasn't designed for it. It honestly kept me away from playing around with it. I may need to take another look at this as a option in the future.
-S-
-S-
re Kenne Bell Boost A Pump durability.......
i have run my BAP for 3 years to date.
since it is capable of raising volts to the pump zero to 50% maybe pump failures occurred due to the user dialing the volts up too much.
i digitally log fuel pressure and i know that plus 20% is enough to run my 850/1600s to 90% duty cycle w no fall off in pressure. i retained the OEM steel lines up to the motor BTW.
sure is simple and it works.... but only when needed.
howard
i have run my BAP for 3 years to date.
since it is capable of raising volts to the pump zero to 50% maybe pump failures occurred due to the user dialing the volts up too much.
i digitally log fuel pressure and i know that plus 20% is enough to run my 850/1600s to 90% duty cycle w no fall off in pressure. i retained the OEM steel lines up to the motor BTW.
sure is simple and it works.... but only when needed.
howard
Last edited by Zero R; 05-07-07 at 07:54 PM.
05-07-07, 08:03 PM
#33
the a1000 is only good to about 500rwhp on a rotary. Can anyone confirm this? I thought it was a little strange. www.wwrturboinjection.com
I have two different rx-7's making 600rwhp with A-1000's at 45psi base pressure using 2X750/2X1600cc injectors. That's at 100% for those combos so at 550 to 580rwhp it should be ok. One of those cars ran 10.0 at 550rwhp with no fuel pressure problems.
I have also maxed the A-1000 on piston cars just over 700rwhp on turbocharged applications which is right about on spec for the pump.
Maximum power supported by the pump depends on flow at a certain boost/fuel pressure. The A-1000 is rated at 800 flywheel horsepower at 70psi.
05-07-07, 08:13 PM
#35
covered in dust
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: new mexico
Posts: 451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have two different rx-7's making 600rwhp with A-1000's at 45psi base pressure using 2X750/2X1600cc injectors. That's at 100% for those combos so at 550 to 580rwhp it should be ok. One of those cars ran 10.0 at 550rwhp with no fuel pressure problems.
I have also maxed the A-1000 on piston cars just over 700rwhp on turbocharged applications which is right about on spec for the pump.
Maximum power supported by the pump depends on flow at a certain boost/fuel pressure. The A-1000 is rated at 800 flywheel horsepower at 70psi.
I have also maxed the A-1000 on piston cars just over 700rwhp on turbocharged applications which is right about on spec for the pump.
Maximum power supported by the pump depends on flow at a certain boost/fuel pressure. The A-1000 is rated at 800 flywheel horsepower at 70psi.
05-07-07, 08:26 PM
#37
That's the only way to do it safely for a street application. Never had a failure or flow problems since using surge tank setups.
Most Aeromotive problems are from improper setup. Those pumps must have a constant fuel supply from gravity flow. They cannot suck fuel. They will suffer from cavitation if the pump does not have a constant supply of fuel.
Another thing I see a lot of people mess up with is the wiring.
Only draw back to the Aeromotive is the damm fricking noise. The voltage regulator does help with the noise and over heating problems also.
BTW. There's enough space between the tank and subframe to mount two filters, one pump and a surge tank.
05-07-07, 08:38 PM
#38
Full Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Danville, Califonia
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My engine builder said he's talked to Aeromotive on many occasions and they tell him the pump CAN suck fuel and do well.
He's run setups where he mounts the pump above the stock fuel tank, runs a hard line into the tank like a straw and just sucks the fuel up. He runs a pre-pump filter and one after. I've always been more comfortable with a surge tank setup, but he swears by the way he does it and said it's never failed on all of his cars/projects.
He's run setups where he mounts the pump above the stock fuel tank, runs a hard line into the tank like a straw and just sucks the fuel up. He runs a pre-pump filter and one after. I've always been more comfortable with a surge tank setup, but he swears by the way he does it and said it's never failed on all of his cars/projects.
05-07-07, 08:46 PM
#39
covered in dust
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: new mexico
Posts: 451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Custom made surge tank.
That's the only way to do it safely for a street application. Never had a failure or flow problems since using surge tank setups.
Most Aeromotive problems are from improper setup. Those pumps must have a constant fuel supply from gravity flow. They cannot suck fuel. They will suffer from cavitation if the pump does not have a constant supply of fuel.
Another thing I see a lot of people mess up with is the wiring.
Only draw back to the Aeromotive is the damm fricking noise. The voltage regulator does help with the noise and over heating problems also.
BTW. There's enough space between the tank and subframe to mount two filters, one pump and a surge tank.
That's the only way to do it safely for a street application. Never had a failure or flow problems since using surge tank setups.
Most Aeromotive problems are from improper setup. Those pumps must have a constant fuel supply from gravity flow. They cannot suck fuel. They will suffer from cavitation if the pump does not have a constant supply of fuel.
Another thing I see a lot of people mess up with is the wiring.
Only draw back to the Aeromotive is the damm fricking noise. The voltage regulator does help with the noise and over heating problems also.
BTW. There's enough space between the tank and subframe to mount two filters, one pump and a surge tank.
05-07-07, 09:48 PM
#40
I use to do the same. I used a 5/8 hard line with bulk head fittings and everything else needed to do the job. It worked for some but others had problems. When idling in traffic for extended periods or on very long trips and continous running when the fuel in the tank was low the pump would over heat to the point that they would shut off.
05-08-07, 06:58 AM
#42
*** Bless The USA
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Saint Louis / Illinois
Posts: 7,139
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What I found was that they did not like to suck fuel for extended periods of time especially when the fuel level was low.
I use to do the same. I used a 5/8 hard line with bulk head fittings and everything else needed to do the job. It worked for some but others had problems. When idling in traffic for extended periods or on very long trips and continous running when the fuel in the tank was low the pump would over heat to the point that they would shut off.
I use to do the same. I used a 5/8 hard line with bulk head fittings and everything else needed to do the job. It worked for some but others had problems. When idling in traffic for extended periods or on very long trips and continous running when the fuel in the tank was low the pump would over heat to the point that they would shut off.
. That's how I would describe the noise. But, it worked great for me without any type of surge tank. Mine was mounted level with the sump bung.
05-08-07, 07:18 AM
#43
I have two different rx-7's making 600rwhp with A-1000's at 45psi base pressure using 2X750/2X1600cc injectors. That's at 100% for those combos so at 550 to 580rwhp it should be ok. One of those cars ran 10.0 at 550rwhp with no fuel pressure problems.
I have also maxed the A-1000 on piston cars just over 700rwhp on turbocharged applications which is right about on spec for the pump.
Maximum power supported by the pump depends on flow at a certain boost/fuel pressure. The A-1000 is rated at 800 flywheel horsepower at 70psi.
I have also maxed the A-1000 on piston cars just over 700rwhp on turbocharged applications which is right about on spec for the pump.
Maximum power supported by the pump depends on flow at a certain boost/fuel pressure. The A-1000 is rated at 800 flywheel horsepower at 70psi.
Thanks for that! I thought that guy was a little strange for saying nothing above 500hp. This fuel setup is going to kill me. So far I've found I need to do one of three things.
1. run a boost a pump with my current rx7.com fuel pump.
2. run two in tank pumps (probably would go with two walbros
3. run external fuel pump with surge tank (I'm sure this being the most expensive of the three but may be the most robust out of them as well.
Do any of you guys not like the boost a pump or running 2 intank fuel pumps?
05-08-07, 07:38 AM
#44
Thanks for that! I thought that guy was a little strange for saying nothing above 500hp. This fuel setup is going to kill me. So far I've found I need to do one of three things.
1. run a boost a pump with my current rx7.com fuel pump.
2. run two in tank pumps (probably would go with two walbros
3. run external fuel pump with surge tank (I'm sure this being the most expensive of the three but may be the most robust out of them as well.
Do any of you guys not like the boost a pump or running 2 intank fuel pumps?
1. run a boost a pump with my current rx7.com fuel pump.
2. run two in tank pumps (probably would go with two walbros
3. run external fuel pump with surge tank (I'm sure this being the most expensive of the three but may be the most robust out of them as well.
Do any of you guys not like the boost a pump or running 2 intank fuel pumps?
05-08-07, 08:06 AM
#47
Not sure if Microtech have a dual pump program but you can use one to activate a second pump at a certain rpm/load point so in that the second pump is not working at 100% most of the times. That wil ease the load on the electrical system and pump life well be much enhanced that way not to mention the fuel temps will be a lot cooler which is really the most important advantage anyway because over heated fuel is what kills pumps and motors.
How much power do you want to support?
How much power do you want to support?
05-08-07, 08:38 AM
#48
man I completely forgot about that feature. Thanks for the reminder. As you can see I'm not very savy with standalones (I've got alot of learning to do as far as thats goes). I'm in the 500hp wannabe club that everyone now a days is trying to achieve. However I do say that I've had this goal for a while now and am not a band wagon jumper, lol. My setup is basically bdc hbp, t70, lt10, 890x1600cc injectors, two crane hi-6's, two lx-92 coils, water/alky injection, etc... etc... etc... Only problem I think I will have later on but should be fine for 500rwhp is I used all -6an fuel line instead of -8 AN. I'm thinking if these external pumps have a problem with running such small line then maybe it would be better for me to go dual pumps.
05-15-07, 10:33 PM
#49
covered in dust
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: new mexico
Posts: 451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Has any one tried mounting their a1000 intank.. aeromotive claims it is fully submersable. If so how would you go about mounting it in your tank?
http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/pdetail.php?prod=3
http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/pdetail.php?prod=3
A1000 Fuel Pump, P/N 11101
For fuel injected engines:
up to 1100 HP - naturally aspirated
up to 800 HP - forced air induction
For carbureted engines:
up to 1300 HP - naturally aspirated
up to 1100 HP - forced air induction
Number one at the track and on the street.
This is the pump that started it all. Durable, reliable, good looking, and it supports high horsepower. Perfect for the daily driver that doesn't run like a daily driver.
Flows 600 lbs. per hour @ 13.5 Volts and 45 PSI.
Flows 800 lbs. per hour @ 13.5 Volts and 8 PSI.
Features -10 AN O-ring boss Inlet and outlet ports.
For EFI engines use regulator P/N 13101 or 13109.
For carbureted engines use regulator P/N 13204.
Fully submersible for custom, in-tank placement.
Perfect for "blow-through " carbureted engines up to 1,100 flywheel horse power.
Billet pump controller (P/N 16302) recommended to keep fuel cool on long trips.
For fuel injected engines:
up to 1100 HP - naturally aspirated
up to 800 HP - forced air induction
For carbureted engines:
up to 1300 HP - naturally aspirated
up to 1100 HP - forced air induction
Number one at the track and on the street.
This is the pump that started it all. Durable, reliable, good looking, and it supports high horsepower. Perfect for the daily driver that doesn't run like a daily driver.
Flows 600 lbs. per hour @ 13.5 Volts and 45 PSI.
Flows 800 lbs. per hour @ 13.5 Volts and 8 PSI.
Features -10 AN O-ring boss Inlet and outlet ports.
For EFI engines use regulator P/N 13101 or 13109.
For carbureted engines use regulator P/N 13204.
Fully submersible for custom, in-tank placement.
Perfect for "blow-through " carbureted engines up to 1,100 flywheel horse power.
Billet pump controller (P/N 16302) recommended to keep fuel cool on long trips.
05-15-07, 10:59 PM
#50
Full Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Danville, Califonia
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thats something i've never seen done but i'm sure its possible and would help keep the pump cool and cut down on noise.
I just ended up going with a single Bosch 044 pump and I am going to run it in-tank. hoping it will support my car up to 550-600whp (subaru though) i'm running rc1000's w/ an aeromotive regulator.
I just ended up going with a single Bosch 044 pump and I am going to run it in-tank. hoping it will support my car up to 550-600whp (subaru though) i'm running rc1000's w/ an aeromotive regulator.