Dear all,
I read a lot of different reviews regarding spark plug setup for high power single turbo fds. Currently with my setup mentioned earlier (stud or no stud thread) i use ngk r7420-11 for trailings and R7420-10 for leadings. Currently i am at 430 bhp and now will go for 500+. So do you believe is better to go 11s all around? Also is there anyone that can provide e real honest review for high power fd using Denso IRE01 spark plugs?
Thank you.
it really does depend on how you use your FD. as a rebuilder of 13BREWs, i recommend 11s for all single turbo setups unless all you are doing is driving around town. most motors i disassemble indicate that they were run w too hot at the plug. i am buying a new set of rotor housings today for a motor that shows cracks around the lower plug boss.
.the carbon on the surface tells the story. carbon indicates the apex seal was not in contact w the housing. note no carbon around the boss. this is because of spark plug mountain. the area around the plug became too hot and the metal had almost no where to expand so it expanded upward. the top of the mountain pushed the apex seal off the housing. you now have two rotor faces in touch w each other. one with cool charge air and the other combusted. you also are creating chatter. the apex seal spring is compressed by the mountain and then unloads after. it then repeats and repeats. look at most housings from about 9 to one o'clock and you will see lateral marks. this is not good for the housings and seals as well as compression. all housings show chatter.... it is a question of degree. cold plugs lower spark plug mountain thereby lowering chatter.
colder plugs = less lift. of course the colder the plug the more ignition you need. stock coils start to misfire around 400 so most singles are running some form of the IGN-1A coils which are way more than adequate.
both NGKs and Densos work well. i run Densos as they have a smaller electrode.
consider cold plugs for the mechanical health of your motor.
it really does depend on how you use your FD. as a rebuilder of 13BREWs, i recommend 11s for all single turbo setups unless all you are doing is driving around town. most motors i disassemble indicate that they were run w too hot at the plug. i am buying a new set of rotor housings today for a motor that shows cracks around the lower plug boss.
.the carbon on the surface tells the story. carbon indicates the apex seal was not in contact w the housing. note no carbon around the boss. this is because of spark plug mountain. the area around the plug became too hot and the metal had almost no where to expand so it expanded upward. the top of the mountain pushed the apex seal off the housing. you now have two rotor faces in touch w each other. one with cool charge air and the other combusted. you also are creating chatter. the apex seal spring is compressed by the mountain and then unloads after. it then repeats and repeats. look at most housings from about 9 to one o'clock and you will see lateral marks. this is not good for the housings and seals as well as compression. all housings show chatter.... it is a question of degree. cold plugs lower spark plug mountain thereby lowering chatter.
colder plugs = less lift. of course the colder the plug the more ignition you need. stock coils start to misfire around 400 so most singles are running some form of the IGN-1A coils which are way more than adequate.
both NGKs and Densos work well. i run Densos as they have a smaller electrode.
consider cold plugs for the mechanical health of your motor.
Hi Howard and thanks for the response.
So for 500+ you recomend 11s all around?At the old days I always use r6725 and now i am using r7420. I ask for denso ire01 since i can find them at a lower price tgan r7420. 10usd les per plug. How the denso perform againsr r 7420. My current setup is ign1 coils and I will use wmi with. Thanks
Go the coldest you can run without fouling for your normal usage.
Example, I went all 11's when running 17psi on stock twins and worked fine for a while but street driving they fouled and left me stranded. Switched to 10's and good to go.
Go the coldest you can run without fouling for your normal usage.
Example, I went all 11's when running 17psi on stock twins and worked fine for a while but street driving they fouled and left me stranded. Switched to 10's and good to go.
Dear friend,
The issue is that i drive my car every weekend for normal use so at this time when cruising the boost levels are not more than 14 psi. Until the monster wake up and some times hit the high boost button and make some accelerations at 20psi boost levels. So do you think that with 11s all around or 11s trailinings and 10s leadings at normal cruse for long period will have possibility of fouling my plugs? Anyone to use IRE01? Thanks
I've been using IRE01-31 spark plugs (equivalent to NGK 10s) and IRE01-34 plugs (equivalent to NGK 11s). Recently, I ran NGK 10s as the leading plugs and IRE01-34s as the trailing plugs without any issues. I've been cycling both for the past years and my view is get the cheapest 10s and 11s you can find in the Denso or Ngk brand.
I would suggest the R7420-105 instead which is a 10.5 heat range.
I have used the 10s the 10.5 and the 11s. they all work very well and i am pushing far more pressure with a much higher flow turbo.
The 10.5 to me is the sweet spot for a mix of street driving/cruising and racing with no potential of fouling or autoignition. If i am planning to run 2 bar of pressure i would run the 11s but the car is an animal at that pressure so it doesnt help me at the track .
Cyprus is very warm. you wont have an issue assuming that your tuner is not dumping a ton of fuel on them even if you go with the 11s.
I dont change the plugs often enough to see any financial gain.
I would suggest the R7420-105 instead which is a 10.5 heat range.
I have used the 10s the 10.5 and the 11s. they all work very well and i am pushing far more pressure with a much higher flow turbo.
The 10.5 to me is the sweet spot for a mix of street driving/cruising and racing with no potential of fouling or autoignition. If i am planning to run 2 bar of pressure i would run the 11s but the car is an animal at that pressure so it doesnt help me at the track .
Cyprus is very warm. you wont have an issue assuming that your tuner is not dumping a ton of fuel on them even if you go with the 11s.
I dont change the plugs often enough to see any financial gain.
Have you ever measured a 100-200km/h sprint on your car by any chance?
Have you ever measured a 100-200km/h sprint on your car by any chance?
I havent measured it because in reality it doesnt interest me. All i care is about the clock at the track
i do have the aim pdm with the gps telemetry i suppose its a pretty easy thing to measure. I will measure it next time i am in cyprus with the new transmission
I havent measured it because in reality it doesnt interest me. All i care is about the clock at the track
i do have the aim pdm with the gps telemetry i suppose its a pretty easy thing to measure. I will measure it next time i am in cyprus with the new transmission
Sounds like you've got a reliable setup dialed in. Which tracks are you racing at? Have you been to spa or ring by any chance?
Sounds like you've got a reliable setup dialed in. Which tracks are you racing at? Have you been to spa or ring by any chance?
my visitations to Cyprus are pretty scarce lately as i have been living in the states for the last 18 years.
been to the ring a few times but without my car and several other tracks when i lived in the uk.
car made 699whp on a mustang dyno a few years ago with the new setup but the motor has been the same since Christmas of 2012
super reliable car in every aspect but currently the transmissio, despite all the work i have done to it, is my weakest part. Cd009 will take its place next time i am there.
i trust my setup enough to do a euro trip with a few track sessions with just the basic maintenance, fluids and the consumables and not worry about breaking down.
comfortably and reliably.
not looking to thread jack Mike’s thread despite knowing each other for 20+ years, feel free to pm me or post on my build thread
my visitations to Cyprus are pretty scarce lately as i have been living in the states for the last 18 years.
been to the ring a few times but without my car and several other tracks when i lived in the uk.
car made 699whp on a mustang dyno a few years ago with the new setup but the motor has been the same since Christmas of 2012
super reliable car in every aspect but currently the transmissio, despite all the work i have done to it, is my weakest part. Cd009 will take its place next time i am there.
i trust my setup enough to do a euro trip with a few track sessions with just the basic maintenance, fluids and the consumables and not worry about breaking down.
comfortably and reliably.
not looking to thread jack Mike’s thread despite knowing each other for 20+ years, feel free to pm me or post on my build thread
Dear friend nice to see you again. Can you provide us with some details on how you reliably put down 699 whp and what are the engine internals and the work you have done to the engine to achive this reliably at those power levels? Since i know that with some porting and apex seals other than that to put down more than 500-550 whp the engine get to risky points of failure. Thanks
it really does depend on how you use your FD. as a rebuilder of 13BREWs, i recommend 11s for all single turbo setups unless all you are doing is driving around town. most motors i disassemble indicate that they were run w too hot at the plug. i am buying a new set of rotor housings today for a motor that shows cracks around the lower plug boss.
.the carbon on the surface tells the story. carbon indicates the apex seal was not in contact w the housing. note no carbon around the boss. this is because of spark plug mountain. the area around the plug became too hot and the metal had almost no where to expand so it expanded upward. the top of the mountain pushed the apex seal off the housing. you now have two rotor faces in touch w each other. one with cool charge air and the other combusted. you also are creating chatter. the apex seal spring is compressed by the mountain and then unloads after. it then repeats and repeats. look at most housings from about 9 to one o'clock and you will see lateral marks. this is not good for the housings and seals as well as compression. all housings show chatter.... it is a question of degree. cold plugs lower spark plug mountain thereby lowering chatter.
colder plugs = less lift. of course the colder the plug the more ignition you need. stock coils start to misfire around 400 so most singles are running some form of the IGN-1A coils which are way more than adequate.
both NGKs and Densos work well. i run Densos as they have a smaller electrode.
consider cold plugs for the mechanical health of your motor.
i run Denso IRE01-34 in the lead and Denso S-31A surface gaps in the trail.
Denso found out that the S-31A is the PERFECT trail plug so they immediately stopped production. i found a dozen or so and bought them but they are now hard to find.
if i didn't have the SA-31As i would absolutely run the NGK surface gap R6601 (4586) 11s they are 19 mm rather than the standard 21.5 but work fine.
i run Denso IRE01-34 in the lead and Denso S-31A surface gaps in the trail.
Denso found out that the S-31A is the PERFECT trail plug so they immediately stopped production. i found a dozen or so and bought them but they are now hard to find.
if i didn't have the SA-31As i would absolutely run the NGK surface gap R6601 (4586) 11s they are 19 mm rather than the standard 21.5 but work fine.
Are the IRE01-34(equal to 11.5) too cold and easy to foul them? I order ire01-32 (equal to 10.5) which i belive are better for street use even in an 550whp setup
"Are the IRE01-34(equal to 11.5) too cold and easy to foul them?"
i haven't had a problem and i had my motor idling for 5 minutes 30 seconds before my Texas Mile run... 1300 rpm, 13.5 afr, 6.2 dwell. IGN1A coils. your 10.5s are a good step in the right direction. i did foul a set of 6601s (11) on decel. i was going down a mountain and my afr was pegged rich. i did fix that...
