20lbs safely with water/meth injection+pump gas
08-06-05, 06:05 AM
#27
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: trinidad and tobago
Posts: 2,715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Using the Hobbs switch to monitor the pressure between the nozzle and the solenoid is a good idea and will work well in most instances , but what would happen if you have a plugged jet , blocking some or all your water flow , or a failed pressure switch or solenoid causing the solenoid to stay closed ?, the "Security switch" will still be seeing 60 psi and will be thinking all is well allowing boost to build , when in actuality , none is being injected ! . This is why an actual water flow through the jet is the best safety of all , that coupled with an in line pressure gauge is the only way to go.
08-06-05, 01:26 PM
#28
MP T-70 = Fun
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Charlotte and WCU
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Marcel Burkett
Using the Hobbs switch to monitor the pressure between the nozzle and the solenoid is a good idea and will work well in most instances , but what would happen if you have a plugged jet , blocking some or all your water flow , or a failed pressure switch or solenoid causing the solenoid to stay closed ?, the "Security switch" will still be seeing 60 psi and will be thinking all is well allowing boost to build , when in actuality , none is being injected ! . This is why an actual water flow through the jet is the best safety of all , that coupled with an in line pressure gauge is the only way to go.
when the nozzle gets clogged what are the symptoms in the system? will the pressure go high at the nozzle? could the use of a over pressure hobbs switch be used?
08-07-05, 03:01 AM
#30
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: trinidad and tobago
Posts: 2,715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If a nozzle is clogged it would be very difficult to tell, the pressure at the nozzle would be the same as the rest of the system , since all pressures would equalize across the solenoid valve when it opens. Normally when the valve opens , pressure is immediately equalized across it , and flow is started out of the system when this higher pressure begins to go to the lower pressure outside the nozzle ( your intake pipe) since by nature a higher pressure always tries to equalize itself with a lower one , if there is a blockage everything would act the same , except that there would be no flow of water from the higher system pressure to the lower one in the intake since it has now been isolated by the blockage. Taking all this into consideration , you'd realize that a pressure switch will not work for this , may be you can try those Cool Mist sensors , but they are waay to low tech for me to trust my motor and ball bearing turbos to !
08-07-05, 03:04 AM
#31
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: trinidad and tobago
Posts: 2,715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by FB II
man, this is starting to get complicated. lol
08-07-05, 03:30 AM
#32
Damnit, steel doors hurt!
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 788
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well on the coolingmist kits the clogged nozzle sensors turn on the green light when its clogged, why not just run that to the air selonoid instead of light, when it comes on it goes back to stock boost?
08-07-05, 03:57 AM
#33
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: trinidad and tobago
Posts: 2,715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's what I don't like aboout the Cool Mist sensor , they are "on / of " sensors , what about a partially plugged jet that isnt flowing enough to maintain the proper ratio of water in the system , can they detect that ??
08-07-05, 06:20 AM
#34
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by Marcel Burkett
If you want to enjoy your investment for a while to come you HAD BETTER get complicated , there isn't any other way !!!!!
No blocked jets
No pumps to burn out
No mapping required (set by me)
100% reliability record and proven power straight out of the box.
In this field extra complexity is not required unless you feel bad for using up a resource that costs nothing
08-07-05, 06:26 PM
#37
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Waiting for Indykid to catch up
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
If you run a good filter and do regular maintenance on you system you won't have a clogged nozzles. I can take my IC out and check all 3 of my nozzles in 5 min. It's not that big of a deal if you take them out and clean them once a year.
08-09-05, 08:46 AM
#38
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: trinidad and tobago
Posts: 2,715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The frequency and amount of clogging would vary greatly , this is because it's affected by a number of things , the main ones being water quality and jet design . If you use an aquamist jet/s , you can be more prone to pluggage because of the jets design (which by the way gives the BEST misting pattern out of the all , so I'm not interested in switching to another) . Not every one would have access to "ULTRA PURE " water , most guys end up putting normal "HARD" water in their tanks when they want a quick fill up , and we all know what happens when you use hard water .
Ultimately after all the different opinions ,everyone has to make their own decision , one persons luck may not be the same for the other , I for one would much prefer spending $2-300 for an unbeatable fail safe , than spending $2-3000 rebuilding turbos and engines !
Ultimately after all the different opinions ,everyone has to make their own decision , one persons luck may not be the same for the other , I for one would much prefer spending $2-300 for an unbeatable fail safe , than spending $2-3000 rebuilding turbos and engines !
08-09-05, 02:17 PM
#41
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: wishing i was back in FL
Posts: 4,192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i just feel that adding this hobbs switch and boost cut switch and all these extra variables that you are possibly creating a future problem by having more to go wrong. i like keeping things simple so they dont go wrong in the first place. but then again, i dont have a 3,000 dollar motor and 2,000 dollar turbo. 
i can get me another 12a to boost for 50 bucks hahaha WOOOOOOT!
i can get me another 12a to boost for 50 bucks hahaha WOOOOOOT!
08-10-05, 02:59 AM
#43
Senior Member
Just curious at what point do you think boost levels and intake temps become to high for pump gas with out WI.
obviously the larger the turbo the higher the safe boost level would be. anyone have experience with large turbo high boost 1.2-1.5 with no added help from WI on pump gas?
obviously the larger the turbo the higher the safe boost level would be. anyone have experience with large turbo high boost 1.2-1.5 with no added help from WI on pump gas?
08-10-05, 08:21 AM
#44
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Waiting for Indykid to catch up
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Originally Posted by sleeperfc
the way this extra stuff gets wired up is so if it does fail you wont be able to run high boost... and i think you will notice that.
08-10-05, 05:50 PM
#47
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Waiting for Indykid to catch up
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Originally Posted by darkphantom
how long have you been using this system. Im very interested on how to achieve this.
08-13-05, 11:31 PM
#48
Freedoms worth a buck o'5
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Calgary Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,544
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Originally Posted by bobybeach
Just curious at what point do you think boost levels and intake temps become to high for pump gas with out WI.
obviously the larger the turbo the higher the safe boost level would be. anyone have experience with large turbo high boost 1.2-1.5 with no added help from WI on pump gas?
obviously the larger the turbo the higher the safe boost level would be. anyone have experience with large turbo high boost 1.2-1.5 with no added help from WI on pump gas?
08-14-05, 10:24 PM
#49
MP T-70 = Fun
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Charlotte and WCU
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Maxthe7man
I am running 20 psi with no other magic aids on a T51 on 91 octane with 9:1 rotors, thats as far as I am gonna push it, if had 8.5:1 rotors I would push it to 25 psi..Max
as with just about everything people on here will say stuff like your crazy and there is no way you can run that much boost on pump. Im hoping to run 18psi on 93 with water meth. 8.5:1 rotors... pretty much just gonna watch EGTs to see what kind of boost is safe.
08-14-05, 10:34 PM
#50
Freedoms worth a buck o'5
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Calgary Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,544
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Egt's are in the 900 c range, plugs are 11.5 ngk race plugs, a/f's are in the 10.8-11:1 range.. I used to think it was impossible to, but it works very well.. Part of it is using good quality wires and cold plugs along with careful engine temperature control.. Max