13B turbo manifold material- Strong as an Ox please!
#1
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13B turbo manifold material- Strong as an Ox please!
Hi. I need to make a turbo manifold for a 13B, not in its original location so its very basic, almost needs to be a short and straight pair of pipes from the engine to the turbo, BUT it needs to be strong, very strong, its a race car so needs to take a lot of heat for a lot of time.
What materials should I use? Stainless 304/321? What thickness? Thicker the better sounds wise to me.
Its so basic Inconel could be affordable I think, is it worth it? With inconel, should the flanges also be made from it?
I also see these manifolds made from steam/boiler pipe- Very thick, but can they take the heat?
Any suggestions welcomed
What materials should I use? Stainless 304/321? What thickness? Thicker the better sounds wise to me.
Its so basic Inconel could be affordable I think, is it worth it? With inconel, should the flanges also be made from it?
I also see these manifolds made from steam/boiler pipe- Very thick, but can they take the heat?
Any suggestions welcomed
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Depending on your budget...
.110 321 ss if you wanna spend a bit of money or 2" sch40 mild steel if you want to have materials for a manifold for under $100 including flanges
.110 321 ss if you wanna spend a bit of money or 2" sch40 mild steel if you want to have materials for a manifold for under $100 including flanges
#5
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just soooo im on the same page when the pipe yall referring to as "steam pipe"
are we talking about the stuff i get at home depot? that looks like this http://i.ehow.com/images/a05/r3/4h/r...pe-800x800.jpg
if so how does one bend that with out it breaking?
are we talking about the stuff i get at home depot? that looks like this http://i.ehow.com/images/a05/r3/4h/r...pe-800x800.jpg
if so how does one bend that with out it breaking?
#6
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Rob- Do you mean 0.2in thick?
No Luck- No, google 'weld el' and you'll see what I mean. As I need to taper the pipe size I don't think I can really use that stuff anyhow, too thick?
No Luck- No, google 'weld el' and you'll see what I mean. As I need to taper the pipe size I don't think I can really use that stuff anyhow, too thick?
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#9
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this is the guy i've been buying my ss pipe from for forever. Great prices and awesome service!!!
http://myworld.ebay.com/sellingstain...84.m1497.l2754
http://myworld.ebay.com/sellingstain...84.m1497.l2754
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.110 wall stainless would be equivalant to schedule 10 elbows, which retail in my area for about 9.00 an elbow for 304 stainless, 321 .110 would be quite a bit more.
However, I can get mild steel schedule 40 elbows ( which would be .154 wall) for around $2.50 at my local plumbing supply store.
For the money I save, I would send the manifold to get ceramic coated. That way you have the advantage of corrosion resistance like a stainless manifold, and less radiant heat on the exterior of the manifold. Not to mention a purdy looking finish, lol.
Not to say that stainless doesn't work, (they work quite well) but IMO the most cost effective durable manifold would be sch 40 MS ceramic coated (again, IMO ).
I noticed there really aren't any rx7 guys experimented with m.s. manifolds. I'm going to build one soon and I'll post pics when I'm done.
#13
Turbo vert
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All a rotary needs is the "pro builder kit". 304 ss, add a few braces
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/builder-kits-33/
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/builder-kits-33/
Last edited by just startn; 02-01-12 at 09:23 AM. Reason: guess i should add the link
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#25
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It's a Borg Warner s360 they are bolted to the chra. They didn't do vband center till the bigger series bw's. The turbine housing on the manifold pic only is off my precision t67 not the Borg warner. Don't know what your getting at but it's not a cheap turbo nor do I have anything to prove to you. Lol.