12A Blow Through Restoration
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Roller into Roadster
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From: Ft. Campbell, KY
12A Blow Through Restoration
In need of advice on tracking down some parts for my 12A blow-through project. Original owner who started hacking the FB a part was working on some sort of budget blow through setup. For not having more than an installation guides knowledge on the task he was able to come up with an okay setup. I am in desperate need of some items though, and not sure where to start in acquiring them.
1. Turbo Exhaust Manifold. Would be going to a rebuilt T3/T4 hybrid. The original owner crudely fabricated one from SCH-44 steel, and while durable & wrapped it has cracked through on the piping heading to where it bolted to the rear of the turbo housing.
2. Rear Turbo Housing to Exhaust Shaft. Another SCH-44 Steel home fab piece. Its ugly, big, heavy and needs to be gone. Problem I am having is I do not have any knowledge or understanding on what this specific part is even called if I was going to try to get something built or buy something already manufactured. So the T3/T4 hybrid has the two different housings which were refurbished and used to make one complete tiny turbo. The rear housing have bolting points where the turbo exhaust manifold bolts to it as well as a bolting point to the exhaust itself (I can provide some hideous pictures if needed). Due to exhaust temps the entire piece has warped and fused enough at mounting points that it will probably have to get cut out for removal. What even is this part called?
3. Manual boost controller & FPR. Engine is carbed so I have a turn dial boost controller in the engine bay. I know that it is merely a matter of vacuum tubing/plumbing to move this to another location inside or out of the bay. I have heard of FPRs that can incrementally increase based on boost psi so the carb doesn't constantly go into fuel starvation.
4. Wastegate. System has never had a wastegate and I would like to get one once I get the turbo exhaust manifold and exhaust housing issues corrected. What product should I be looking at or is this such a dummy system (like the manual controller), that I should just stick with a quality brand & product line instead of some specifically designed for this setup?
A lot of questions, but all I honestly have on this project is time so I'd like to prepare 100% for the undertaking before getting drowned with all the little 1's & 2's that will pop up from restoring an almost 30 year old vehicle.
1. Turbo Exhaust Manifold. Would be going to a rebuilt T3/T4 hybrid. The original owner crudely fabricated one from SCH-44 steel, and while durable & wrapped it has cracked through on the piping heading to where it bolted to the rear of the turbo housing.
2. Rear Turbo Housing to Exhaust Shaft. Another SCH-44 Steel home fab piece. Its ugly, big, heavy and needs to be gone. Problem I am having is I do not have any knowledge or understanding on what this specific part is even called if I was going to try to get something built or buy something already manufactured. So the T3/T4 hybrid has the two different housings which were refurbished and used to make one complete tiny turbo. The rear housing have bolting points where the turbo exhaust manifold bolts to it as well as a bolting point to the exhaust itself (I can provide some hideous pictures if needed). Due to exhaust temps the entire piece has warped and fused enough at mounting points that it will probably have to get cut out for removal. What even is this part called?
3. Manual boost controller & FPR. Engine is carbed so I have a turn dial boost controller in the engine bay. I know that it is merely a matter of vacuum tubing/plumbing to move this to another location inside or out of the bay. I have heard of FPRs that can incrementally increase based on boost psi so the carb doesn't constantly go into fuel starvation.
4. Wastegate. System has never had a wastegate and I would like to get one once I get the turbo exhaust manifold and exhaust housing issues corrected. What product should I be looking at or is this such a dummy system (like the manual controller), that I should just stick with a quality brand & product line instead of some specifically designed for this setup?
A lot of questions, but all I honestly have on this project is time so I'd like to prepare 100% for the undertaking before getting drowned with all the little 1's & 2's that will pop up from restoring an almost 30 year old vehicle.
Pictures will help. I will try my best...
1. The pipe you are talking about that cracked seems to be the downpipe. Basically where the exhaust gases exit the turbine housing to begin traveling through the exhaust piping. Most modern turbo's use a V-band connection here. However, you can go with a 4-bolt flange. It really depends on what you purchase. The downpipe will likely need to be fabricated as the shape and placement is usually custom. Talk to Elliott at TURBLOWN - Turbo Kits, Turbochargers, Engine Rebuilds and Car Parts. He sells quality custom pieces.
2. You can try to unbolt and separate the downpipe from the turbine housing. Again, if the original piece is wasted, you may want to consider replacing it with a custom piece.
3. MBC's can be remotely controlled with a manual ****. There are a few on the market, just do a quick search. If you want total control, you will want to move to an electronic boost controller. There are also dual stage controllers that utilize 2 MBC's that you switch between. This is more cost effective, and does give you 2 different settings to switch between. Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller- Whats in the Box? - DragTimes.com
The fuel pressure regulator you are speaking of is a rising rate regulator. It raises fuel pressure 1psi for every 1psi of boost it senses through the vacuum line. This is essential for any turbo car. There are many companies that sell them from Mallory to Aeromotive. Depending on how deep your pockets are.
4. Very few turbo systems run with no wastegate. If the turbo is small enough it is possible it didn't have one. However, this would be unwise. The type of wastegate you use depends solely on the exhaust manifold design. From the sounds of things, you are better off removing and replacing most of the previous owners handy work. Wastegate placement and size are crucial to prevent spikes and overboosting. Randomly welding an external wastegate any place on the manifold will lead to as much trouble as not having one. Tial, Synapse, Precision, and TurboSmart all make quality wastegates.
From your wording, it sounds like you may be calling the blow off valve the wastegate. But I can't be sure...
You definitely have your work cut out for you. Your best tool in building a successful turbo rotary is knowledge. The club has lots of information but you must search for it. Get familiar with using the search function and read...read...read.
1. The pipe you are talking about that cracked seems to be the downpipe. Basically where the exhaust gases exit the turbine housing to begin traveling through the exhaust piping. Most modern turbo's use a V-band connection here. However, you can go with a 4-bolt flange. It really depends on what you purchase. The downpipe will likely need to be fabricated as the shape and placement is usually custom. Talk to Elliott at TURBLOWN - Turbo Kits, Turbochargers, Engine Rebuilds and Car Parts. He sells quality custom pieces.
2. You can try to unbolt and separate the downpipe from the turbine housing. Again, if the original piece is wasted, you may want to consider replacing it with a custom piece.
3. MBC's can be remotely controlled with a manual ****. There are a few on the market, just do a quick search. If you want total control, you will want to move to an electronic boost controller. There are also dual stage controllers that utilize 2 MBC's that you switch between. This is more cost effective, and does give you 2 different settings to switch between. Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller- Whats in the Box? - DragTimes.com
The fuel pressure regulator you are speaking of is a rising rate regulator. It raises fuel pressure 1psi for every 1psi of boost it senses through the vacuum line. This is essential for any turbo car. There are many companies that sell them from Mallory to Aeromotive. Depending on how deep your pockets are.
4. Very few turbo systems run with no wastegate. If the turbo is small enough it is possible it didn't have one. However, this would be unwise. The type of wastegate you use depends solely on the exhaust manifold design. From the sounds of things, you are better off removing and replacing most of the previous owners handy work. Wastegate placement and size are crucial to prevent spikes and overboosting. Randomly welding an external wastegate any place on the manifold will lead to as much trouble as not having one. Tial, Synapse, Precision, and TurboSmart all make quality wastegates.
From your wording, it sounds like you may be calling the blow off valve the wastegate. But I can't be sure...
You definitely have your work cut out for you. Your best tool in building a successful turbo rotary is knowledge. The club has lots of information but you must search for it. Get familiar with using the search function and read...read...read.
I had a 12a blowthrough... Carbs imo are kindof a pain... I would recommond reading a few turbo books... I think I read 5 front to back before even starting turbo plans... I greatly increased my turbo knowledge.. However still have tons to learn... As previously stated knowledge is probably the best thing right now.. I am currently going with EFI.. but my build thread might help you out a little... Elliot at Turblown does awesome work... put up any other questions if you have them ... we will do our best to help you out
I'll try to remember when I get home to give you a list of what turbo books to read... I know "maximum boost" by Corky Bell is one of them... it's a bit dated but the general knowledge is there...
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