I don't have the belt hooked up to the airpump. I didn't get to work on the car last weekend due to a trip to Santa Cruz, I'll have an update tommorow probably. Got knock these things out one at a time...Thanks everyone for the help!

 

Yes. I snugged my alternator tension a skosh to ensure good contact between the water pump pulley and the alternator/main pulley belt.

 

Jason and Zavier fine-tuned my Power FC over the weekend. Here's the Mustang Dyno plot. The numbers are comparable to DynoJet numbers. They recalibrated the Mustang rollers to mimic the load the DynoJet drum has on drive wheels.

Jason tuned conservatively with 10.9-ish AFRs. I had 102 octane fuel in the tank (50% 94 unleaded/50% 110 leaded) for insurance against detonation. Jason advanced the timing a skosh more.

We had ignition trouble midway through the process. Turns out my 4500-mile copper NGK 9s weren't cutting it (already fouled from the last rough tune, and street driving). We swapped to new platinums NGK 9s, and finished the tuning.

Jason recommends I add an ignition amp for even more hp, as I get a slight stumble in the midrange. He also says, my AFR might lean out to low 11s once I go back to pump gas (creating a bit more hp and torque).

 

this is non sequential right?

 

Manny,

What boost level was this run at? Out of curiosity what do you think your AFRs will be at the track? Do you turn down the boost at the HPDEs?

Meanwhile, how come I don't see a transitional dip at switch over in the dyno plot?

Later,

Ramon

 

Nope full sequential operation

 

Boost was set to 1.05 kg/cm^2, 78% duty cycle primary/secondary, actual boost was 14.5 psi. Interestingly, the run previous to the posted plot was set @ 0.90 kg/cm^2, 60% duty cycle; actual boost was 13 lbs, and yielded the same rwhp, only with slightly less torque!

Quote:

Out of curiosity what do you think your AFRs will be at the track?

10.9-ish or 11-ish?

Quote:

Do you turn down the boost at the HPDEs?

I plan to set the boost @ 0.85 kg/cm^2 (12.1 psi), 55% duty pri/sec, for track

Quote:

Meanwhile, how come I don't see a transitional dip at switch over in the dyno plot?

Don't know? I have J-spec '99 Type RS twins. Perhaps they don't dip @ the transition??

 

Thanks for the info. This Spring I hope to get my AFRs checked. I will shoot for 11.0.

Hopefully, not going too far off topic, but what has been your intake temps at the track at 12.1 lbs of boost?

thx

PS. I think the transition is due to the control mechanism not the specific turbos. Your dyno plot looks too smooth for sequential. If it was tuned out then fantastic--just didn't know that was possible.

 

I don't recall. In cooler weather 100 C? Warmer weather 112 to 115 C? My high-flow cat was clogged most of 03, so I can't say how accurate the above data is. Will know more this season running a MP...

FWIW, the dyno plot is "smoothed", so perhaps the transition has been smoothed out by the Mustang Dyno software??

 

Also perhaps it's because the dyno run was on a Mustang Dynometer .... load-sensing readings probably don't see the peak as much. You definitely see the transition in the torque curve. Which is also about what I saw on my RZ turbos ... the transition happens a bit earlier than expected and is not as sudden as the older turbos.

Nice dyno curves there, Manny. Extrapolating to what a Dynojet run would've made, looks like you're making around 380-390RWHP. My runs showed a little more torque down low ... ahh, but I forgot that you have a streetport .... nevermind. Very impressive!

 

Thanks

Jason recalibrated the Mustang Dyno output to match the loads a DynoJet drum would have, thus my figures are comparable to DynoJet numbers (according to Jason and Zavier of Rx7 Store)

I can live with 100 lb.ft @ 2400 rpm...considering the Rx8's 150 lb.ft comes on @ more than twice that rpm (5000-ish) LOL

 

Most recent dyno plot after more Power FC fine-tuning @ Rx7 Store's Mustang Dyno. I had high-rpm miss (ignition break-up) last time with stock ignition. This run, I installed an HKS Twin Power ignition amplifier. The AFRs were 10.9 to 11.1 WOT, @ 7000 rpm. Injector duty was 84.7% @ peak rwhp. Luckily I have no more power mods coming LOL

Here's the dyno plot with my hand-written notes of extra information from the FC Datalogit.

 

Manny,
Those are some good #'s for sequential twins. Looks like 375 or so. Nice safe afr and still some room on the injector duty. Now go get a ms gt front nose with two huge coolers and duct work and get that baby back on the track
Fritz

 

Thanks, Fritz. I'm tapped out, so no more mods for awhile LOL

 

radkins shot some video during our run down southern Indiana's twistiest, tightest roads. Below is a still of my car apparently shooting flames. Ryan described the flames as "fireballs". I'm guessing the flames shoot out as I heel-toe downshift into the turns. There's also a "bap, bap, bap" sound, as the exhaust back fires. There were no special settings on my Power FC--the deceleration fuel cut settings are pretty close to stock. I have an open exhaust system, DP/MP/Racing Beat dual tip CB. Power FC is tuned to 10.9 - 11.1 AFRs. Boost setting was 1.05 kg/cm^2 (15 psi). Notice the flames as we approach the turn. Thanks to Ryan Adkins for this video still shot

 

I still have the main cat and get "poppa-poppa-pop" all the time on upshifts or letting off the gas when driving it hard. No fire though I don't know why the pops always come in threes?. If it's a really good day when I shut it down right as the engine dies it will let out "chuf, chuuuuuuuf, BOP!" and it's guaranteed to scare people walking behind the car

People still tell me the M2 dual tip at full boil sounds like a jet going by.

 

Yeah, mine does the same thing whenever you hear a backfire you can bet there's some flames coming out of your pipe if you have open exhaust! When I drive at dark I can see stuff to the right of the car glow yellow when it backfires They're just the "fireball" type flamage though...

This is the real deal:
http://www.yousendit.com/download.as...E47FFC9C9914E7

 

Mine did this backfiring until I got some new plugs. Backfiring is gone and hello newly discovered horsepower

 

Chronos, nothing showed up on your link? Cruiser, my NGK BUR9EQP spark plugs (all around) are fairly new (<1000 miles). DamonB, time for a midpipe, and a jump to ASP class--mmm--bigger/wider wheels/tires--bigger/wider contact patch--ducking and running LOL

 

I guess it expired...I'll upload it later

 

Took the FD Rx7 out of retirement last weekend.

IRP Road Course Friday, Putnam Park Road Course Sat/Sun (Apr 23/24/25, 2004).

Minimal preparation--an oil/filter change.

Brakes were stock Sumitomo Type RS pads and last year's Motul RBF600, and Type RS calipers from 2002.

Car ran like a champ at 0.85 kg/cm^2 (12 psi) boost. No turbo control problems. No oil leaks. No overheating, although motor got warm after sustained hard driving with ambient temps in mid 60s F (AITs were 42 to 44 C). It took 25 minutes to get water temps up to 110 to 115 C. FWIW, 12 psi on the road course feels oh so good!

Chris Regan's special oil filler neck cap that attaches to my catch can worked very well. After a couple of drains from the 1-pint catch can, I didn't need to drain again all weekend (I must have overfilled the oil pan during the oil change?).

Let's hope my good luck continues. Next event is Todd Serota's TracQuest Mid Ohio event Memorial Day and June 1.

Enjoy the open tracking season!

PS. the corner workers, and drivers that I pass tell me my car shoots 3-foot flames. I have no special settings on the Power FC. Rx7 Store tuned my AFRs to 10.9 to 11.1, and I'm running a DP/MP/Racing Beat dual tip CB--I guess 11-ish AFRs are rich?

 

Would you consider 18 lean?? Eventually I want to shoot for 13-14ish after I get my whole setup complete. Also, how does the seasonal thing work, what's the time frame?? I just got my datalogit and new rims with kumho victoracers so I'll be heading out to Streets of Willow on May 22nd for my first event! Anyone else coming out???

 

Chronos, I ran 12 psi boost b/c the ambient temps were pretty cool. Use your best judgement. The hotter the ambient temps, the lower the boost you want to run on track. If the ambient temps were mid 80s, I would have turned boost down to 0.70 kg/cm^2 (10 psi). BTW, 12 psi is too high in slick conditions, as I was caugh out in the rain midway through my session--had to pit-in, and lower the boost down to 0.70 kilo to regain control of the car in the wet!

 

Sorry, I should have been more descriptive, I meant I wanted to shoot for 13-14 AFR...eventually I want to run 20-22psi of BOOST that won't be for a loooong time though

I'll be running near stock boost levels (10-11psi) at the track event since I'm at %91 injector duty cycle and have a stock IC. BTW, do you datalog your runs? How does the laptop hold up while you're driving hard on the track?

 

Chronos, 10-11 psi on track will be fine depending on ambient temps. Stock IC might not get you much rwhp if the AITs get too high (100 C?), despite running 10-11 psi boost. In fact you might detonate at the boost level with high enough AITs. I think this is why the stock ECU drops the boost level down to 8 or 9 psi when the air intake temps are too high. I don't datalog. I had Rx7 Store tune the motor, and now I just show up @ the track and have fun