Second track day after the rebuild at Summit Point Main and first real dry track day. While it wasn't wet this time, it was sure hot. Ambient was around 95 so track temps were probably well over 100.

First session, I missed a couple apex's and got into some understeer. When I got back to the paddock, I checked my tire pressure and they were like 45 psi I lowered them to 35 (hot) and the second session went much better (need to invest in a pyrometer).

I soloed at the end of the day which was nice, but I got tired of giving point-byes to all the late model high HP cars ala AMGs, GTRs, Shelbys, ISFs, GT-4s, Z06s. Speaking of which, nice judicial use of painters tape....



Overall, I was happy with the performance of the car. Water temps did not exceed 210, oil did not break 190 and IAT (at the IC) was 45C. These data points were by periodic glancing at my mechanical gauges. I really need to learn how to log off the datalogit to see how the vitals change over time.

Only issue was the meth. The stock windshield washer tank wasn't cutting it. It would barely last a session. I went through over 2 gallons in one day and I only brought an extra gallon. Towards the end, I was filling it with Deer Park I will probably need to mount a larger tank in the trunk. Not looking forward to that

 

Nice, glad you are out there enjoying the car.

 

How did your brakes hold up at the track day? Did you experience any brake fade?

 

Hi Tom,

I may have one of the JDM rear tanks available. If interested I'll take a look.

What tires were you running and what was your starting pressure? If you are bleeding down to 35 hot in the paddock that's likely still too high.

Glad the car is doing well

 

You got me excited seeing pictures of you tracking the car. Can't wait to get out there too.

 

It is great having it completed and back out on the track after a 3-1/2 yr hiatus. Only problem is when I first got it, they were cheap and plentiful, so tracking it was an easy decision. Now, I'm a little apprehensive. I really need a dedicated track car (maybe a Miata ) Only problem is I don't have the garage space.

Not one iota. Brakes are stock, but ducted, with Hawk DTC-60 in front and 30's in the rear. I had no problem taking it all the way to the 2nd brake zone at 95 on the main straight. Think my instructor was a little nervous though. He was just behind a bad wreck on the same stretch earlier and later was in a late model WRX that lost it's brakes on another high speed turn. Not wanting to make him a nervous wreck, I pretty much took it easy the rest of the day.

I'll take you up on the w/w tank if you got one.

Tires are 255 RE-11s. After I let out some pressure, they really did well, although somewhat melted I really need to get a pyrometer before my next session.

Don't wait too long

 

Tank shipped yesterday priority. Hopefully it works out well for you

 

Nice build. Lots of cool little details and tips

 

More outings at Summit Point and VIR dialing in the car. I am actually more impressed by the trailers...







Opps



So, after a session towards the end of the day, i notice oil all over my engine bay. Crap!

Looking closely around, i notice there's a metal plug in the middle of my Super Now oil fill cap. Seems it was only glued in and the crankcase backpressure blew it out





Shitty aftermarket crap !

Problem was i was running a closed oil catch can setup, between the oil filler neck and the primary turbo. I had always run a closed system and didn't think there was any problem. Guess there was and didn't realize it because i didn't have anything to tell me the pressure was high, until the oil cap blew. Luckily, the catch can came with a vented adapter. I put that on and a stock oil cap. Problem solved, for the most part



Looks like i am still getting some blow-by.



I am running i think a 3/8" (ish) barb off the oil filler neck to the catch can and similar to the primary turbo. Probably need to increase that to 10AN

Another adjustment was the 99 wing. I had been running it one hole from the bottom. The front of the car seemed light at speed. I initially thought my suspension wasn't tight enough, then thought the wing was actually lifting the front. I have the 99 lip as well, but don't think that's enough to counteract the wing. I brought up the wing to the second hole from the top and it was better, but still felt a little loose in the front at speed (100+). I ended up setting it at the top hole and that seemed to plant the front much better (from the initial setting). I was surprised how much downforce that little thing produces. I also have removed the A/C, power steering and relocated the battery in trunk. Maybe the front is now too light (it was corner weighted when the suspension was tuned).

 

Hell just during our fall cruise through shenandoah just about filled my catch can up with oil, some light residue for some spilling through the breather filter. Things are nuts.

 

There's a colored cap that's supposed to go on that oil cap. Don't know if it would have helped.

 

Currently i am running a quart catch can with a baffled oil fill neck. I used to run a pint can and stock oil fill. That thing would fill up after every run. Now it only gets about 1/4 full in a day (2 hrs at WOT!). Seeing gunk in my intake with an empty catch can has me speculating that either my lines to the catch can are too small (and it's bypassing it somehow) or somehow the backpressure is contributing. Regardless, think venting it will help. If I'm still getting gunk, i'll upgrade to a 10AN oil neck.

You really shouldn't be filling a catch can that quick on the street, unless you are really pushing it or your oil level is a bit high. I highly recomend a baffled oil neck. That should help.

It's baslically a glued on sticker. It wouldn't have helped

 

Next track day is in 2 weeks

 

LOL my first track even of the season is Memorial Day and my car currently has the turbos torn off. I feel you for sure. I’m sure you’ll get it sorted in time.

 

What sucks is it was sorted, now i've purposely unsorted it and the biggest pain is ripping out the previous installation (posts #127-128). Had to remove the fender liner, strut bar, IC ducts, crossover tube, cruise control, AST, windshield washer tank, undertray, and probably a couple other things i can't remember.




The pump was mounted to the bottom of the IC cross-frame bar (or whatever it's called). You can't even see it from the top



...and from the bottom.

Now i'm at the point of no return.

 

This ended up turning into another "all tools on deck" project

 

Went with the SB pump mount. There is a slight design flaw in that the orientation puts the pump head extremely close to the rear sub-frame


Photo from SBG

For the AEM pump, there is not enough clearance for the pump intake. There is not enough room between the subframe and the pump inlet to push in the hose let alone a 90 deg fitting which is really needed for this location. I ended up hacking the rubber isolation mounts in order to put the pump lower on the SB mount in order to clear the subframe




This gave me enough clearance for a 90 deg fitting



It would have been a much better design if the pump was rotated so the pump head was facing the front of the car which has more room. This may also allow the ability to refit the under pan which does not fit with the SB mount installed

 

So i just ditched the pan.

Pic of the install. Routed the feed in the fuel rails. This is probably standard for the install




For the feed, i had wanted to run a 90 degree from the SB tank to the left (facing the front of the car). After drilling a hole roughly where the red arrow is, i realized there seems to be an interior compartment, so there is no way to run the hose external to the car from that location w/o dropping the fuel tank and drilling another hole from the other side of that interior compartment. So i ended up drilling a hole near the top of the wheel wheel. This makes for a simple feed to the pump, but a less than perfect install IMO. I ran the wiring through the fuel pump wiring access (yellow arrow)

 

Underneath from the wheel well i ran the tubing to a filter i mounted on the sub-frame bracing. I fabed up some sheet aluminum with a hole to fit the filter cap and zip tied the inlet and outlet feed through two holes on each side. I screwed the aluminum sheet to one of the stock bolts on the sub-frame brace and tapped another hole



It doesn't look like it from this picture, but there is plenty of clearance with the axle.

I highly recommend getting the filter (this is from AEM). This is what it looked like after about 4 track days. ICK

 

Well the SB AI tank worked awesome. I could go at least three sessions before i needed to fill it. Previous, the w/w tank was empty before the first session.

Not all was good though. Going into turn 5 at Summit Pt Main, i had no brakes

Got back and this was what was left of the passenger side brake duct



Looks like i need to fab some C5 brake ducts



Or bite the bullet and get a BBK

 

Soon as I get the car back, you can come look at mine. Only thing is, the outlet to the rotor is 3.5" so you'll need new rotor backing plates, or some sort of adapter.

 

Pete, your setup was my inspiration. Looks like the outlook is 3" (think it's actually a C6 duct if that makes any difference). The inlet though is ~ 4". I got a 3"-4" adapter for HVAC ducts at HD, so will see if that works. Not doing VIR this year, so next track day isn't until Sept so i have some time to figure it out. Will definitely hit you up if I can't figure out how to make it work.

 

Oh you must have a factory duct? I got mine from Doug Rippie Motorsports

 

Very nice Tom. I haven't been in here in a bit. Looks like we were just days apart on the SB tank install.

 

First, my car has joined it's owner and is now officially "over the hill"




Then, the original owner passed away.

Then the Coronoshitstorm

Then this



And that's the good rotor