When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i'm curious how much you have to cut off the shoulder of that seat for it to fit. my sparco evo needed about 1/2" taken off.
Think the site went down shortly after my post.
I expect to cut the shoulders even though the Pro-2ks are 20 mm smaller in the shoulders. I plan to have them professionally installed to get as close to the floor as possible.
Also installed a SB foot rest. Rode as a passenger for the first time since I owned the car (18 years) and the passenger side sucks! I feel really bad for all my previous instructors. Hope this helps.
The right tab didn't line up perfectly, but it's secure enough w/o attached.
I expect to cut the shoulders even though the Pro-2ks are 20 mm smaller in the shoulders. I plan to have them professionally installed to get as close to the floor as possible.
Also installed a SB foot rest. Rode as a passenger for the first time since I owned the car (18 years) and the passenger side sucks! I feel really bad for all my previous instructors. Hope this helps.
The right tab didn't line up perfectly, but it's secure enough w/o attached.
I bought one of those after riding passenger at an autocross.
Just to note, it won't be secure enough, at all (ask me how I know). Then I had to bend the tabs slightly to make it line up.
So, maybe it's a design issue then. If it's not secure enough, may fab up a piece of aluminum that will extend from the foot rest tab to the fire wall stud
I went with a Fuelab 6 micron 818 fuel filter which is rated for E85 as a potential future option and mounted to the subframe as high as possible (and w/o obstructing the diff fill hole). I hate AN hose and prefer to use metal tube as much as possible. Unfortunately, i'm not a professional fabricator so it took some stock to get something that is merely ok. In the process I replaced all the rubber fuel hose with new and double clamped where it connects to the tube. Thankfully no leaks which would have been a major cussing event because i didn't connect the fuel until after all the rear driveline/suspension/exhaust was reinstalled.
From post #19, guess my elation on no fuel leaks was a little premature. Started the car after a month of sitting and noticed a pretty good fuel leak at the rear. I had used SAE fuel pressure hose. It's close to stock metric hose, but it's just a little bigger. I thought I tightened it down sufficiently, but guess not.
To say the least, it was a pain getting to all the hose clamps above the diff. And just looking at this pic now, there's two I missed. F%$#!
As mentioned in post #134, was having clearance issues with my Greddy strut bar, so I went in on the IR group buy.
It's a nice bar, but when I went to install it
Damn, not again
It was hitting the hard AL secondary intake pipe. I used the stock rubber intake to extend the filter past the primary filter (post 103), so I thought if I flipped the rubber piece with the AL pipe, it might be flexible enough to bolt down the bar. Sure enough
There was one other minor issue. I ordered the MC brace version which comes with a locking nut. I had to remove the nut to allow enough clearance for the longer 929 MC
Yes it is, including this forum which drives me crazy at times.
So, my SB footrest was rattling like crazy w/o the right side bolted down, so I ended up grinding the hell out of it to get it to clear the ECU wire cover thingy
Then a couple weeks later going through some boxes, I find this
F$#k!
It's an extender that attaches to the firewall stud to allow clearance for the ECU wire cover. Now why they didn't design the footrest with a tab that would clear the wire cover I don't know. Anywho, it fits. Maybe if my OCD kicks in I will replace it.
^lol...as I was reading through your thread I was going to comment that I didn't see that spacer. Mine fits pretty well, but I did buy a package of those peel-n-stick rubber pads for the bottom (carpet) and side where it contacts the plastic kick-panel. You're not the only one with OCD.
Wow looks like a bad accident. Glad you are ok Tom. And I agree, I love euro cars but they lose too much value past the warranty period to be worth keeping. Best thing is to lease them and dump them. I ditched my V10 S6 for a Roush Raptor. Got killed on the trade in but maintenance was getting too high on the Audi.
...And I agree, I love euro cars but they lose too much value past the warranty period to be worth keeping. Best thing is to lease them and dump them. I ditched my V10 S6 for a Roush Raptor. Got killed on the trade in but maintenance was getting too high on the Audi.
I wasn't concerned about resale value because I wasn't planning on selling it. Of course, I wasn't planning on totaling it either.
Did a lot of research on oil for the first change after break in which is all very interesting, but in the end oil is probably oil (if it's changed frequently)
Anywho, went with Boss 302/GT-500 oil
Specs are:
Viscosity index - 181
Viscosity @ 40c - 136
Viscosity @100c - 21
Flash point - 444
In comparison, Idemitsu 20w-50 specs are:
Viscosity index - 161
Viscosity @ 40c - 130
Viscosity @100c - 18.6
Flash point - 482
Also interesting is the following blog that rates the Motorcraft 20w-50 in the outstanding category being capable of sustaining 103.5 kpsi.
which would have been a major cussing event because i didn't connect the fuel until after all the rear driveline/suspension/exhaust was reinstalled.
)
