hey this same thing just happened to me 2 days ago

going to do the same thing
just wondering what size drill bit you used to drill out the hole for the bearing, or did you just take it to a shop and they did it all for you?

 

I dont think I ever found the answer to that question. Hopefully someone that knows the answer will post in here the differences between the pedals.

 

to answer your question, yes RHD and LHD pedals are different.
I converted my auto RHD chassis to manual using the wrong pedals...

The arms on the LHD pedals are much straighter than the RHD pedals that are bent to the right

 

I didn't use a drill. I bored the hole using an end mill to get the best result; you risk oversizing the hole and screwing it up using a drill (unless it's fixtured just right), particularly in soft material. I don't recall the size, it was about 1", but I probably sized a cutter for it--to a light press fit.

Most will not have the tools to do this--I would suggest taking it to a local machine shop along with the bearing you're going to use--I doubt it would be too expensive to have this bore "installed." The shop time is going to be in the setup; boring it only takes a minute.

It is well worth it.

 

ok great...i guess i'll just have a shop do it then because i dont have the tools for it

thanks, and great thread

 

this literally just happened to me as i got home, can someone please confirm that P/N 0727-41-023 is indeed the right one? I'm planning to order one from MAZDA first thing monday morning thank you very much.

 

Is a "sticky" clutch a common symptom? My clutch feels like its sticking the last 1/4 of travel. Feeling a bit stiffer too.

 

I'm going to check mine in the morning, but I haven't noticed any issues yet.

not sure if these are good enough, but I use them regularly for all my bearing needs.. only a buck.

8x22 Bearing 8x22x7 Rubber Bearing 608-2RS

 

as an update on my end i ordered the parts i needed yesterday and got them today
and if anyone ever needs to have a reference as to what the part numbers are

Master Clutch Cylinder Push Rod: 0727-41-131

Push Rod Nut: 9992-10-800

 

tig welding and redrilling the original hole would also be an alternative.

but i guess there is a lesson to be learned, if you have a heavy pressure plate then greasing this pivot isn't a bad idea.

 

update on my problem, well after reading the whole thread again and being warned about finding where the main cause that started this problem, once i pulled out the clutch pedal and with out surprise it was the same reasons as juans and every other person that did wheel bearing modification except there wasn't a bushing for the push pin. but thankfully my school has a CNC/Milll shop with cool professors and a local skate board shop that hooked me up with some used but really good wheel bearings for free. here are some pictures on what went down.























after everything was done. my pedal feels a million times better than before. it has a nice smooth and easy feel every time i push in the pedal. especially since i have a new Exedy Stage 1 HD clutch. i would say it feels like a brand new car. best $4 spend.

 

Does anyone know the length of the push rod? I recently took my pedal out to do the bearing mod and lost the push rod. All the vendors I've tried say its no longer available, so I'll have to fab one myself. Thanks in advance.

 

The push rod is roughly 3 1/2 inches. I had a bolt machined at my work, but it was about a 1/2" short on the threads. I got impatient and just took another bolt, cut off the head, and dremeled the threads off. The pedal feels great and finally returns all the way to the top. I had ordered Miata push rods which I received yesterday. Unfortunately it is about a 1/2" too long.

 

mine is doing the same thing =\

 

and fixed... thanks guy....

 

If I don't have access to a machine shop, can this be done with a drill bit?

 

hit up any college campus that offers CNC machine courses and get in contact with one of the professors (in person) and respectfully ask them if it is ok if one of the students can mill out a simple hole for you and have them press the bearing in for you, slip the student a $20 for his troubles and go home to install back in car and feel how amazing it feels

if you are in southern California OCC (orange coast college) is where I had mine done at, really cool professors and they have a huge shop.

 

I know this is an old thread but I had an issue with the hole in the pedal wearing out too. The local parts store had a kit with a brass bushing that fit perfectly when I ground off the lip.

 

Interesting thread, I don't have the problem of a broken push rod, but on one of my clutch pedals (I have more than one only because of powdercoading projects ) it does have a oval hole which I wondered why one was like that and the other wasn't. Figured i would just weld it to be a fixed size like the GOOD pedal lol. I'll try this out on that. Mill don't drill, and use bearing of certain size right? My question for this thread is since I was powdercoating stuff, in my adventures I broke the plastic bit that goes in between the spring and the housing of the clutch. Not the two on the left and right but the centre one that holds the arm of the spring. ( c-shaped) This is an incredibly fragile thing but I broke it the second time taking it apart....Please in all this collected knowledge you ladies and gents know of a part number or a alternative to that. I don't need 3 clutch pedals....

 

There's the clutch pedal, https://mazda.epcdata.ru/rx-7/ajfa06/piping_fuel/4300/..........not available as a separate part.

I take it you're referring to the arm above the pivot point as in post 61? Vaguely remember plastic pivots for the springs at each end in the mount, I'd assume there would be something to protect the alumiinum from the steel there too - if that's what you're talking about, but no memory of it.

Bit of a fiddly job, if there's any jobbing shops nearby, you might try to see if they can replicate in nylon

 

Yeah I checked the parts manual too, I was just hoping someone knew of a similar part or something. I have the two end plastic bits for the spring but there is one plastic bit in the centre that attached to the arm. I was so careful and it still broke. The noise that thing makes when I clutch in makes me cringe. I don't even have a sample to provide for anyone to replicate. I will try when I get to chance to take a small plastice cube or something and dremel it into shape lol. Until then I'll lurk around here. Cheers

 

Because sharing is caring as they say, I have found a potential solution to my portion of the clutch pedal problems. Im sure mazda has their own P/N out there somewhere, maybe not for the FD in particular but I can't imagine them breaking that plastic bit at the dealer and replacing the whole pedal as a result. The piece is called so many names: clutch spring insulator, spring bushing...and some other I forgot. But land rover, nissan, ford and then some made replaceable parts for theirs. This one I bought was a nissan p/n for a silvia I think. P/N 46534-35F10, in case the pics die out over time. This beats me fabricating my own anyday.

 

I am having this same problem, except I haven't broken my push rod - but it IS bent about 15 degrees around the same area people are breaking them, so I think I lucked out. I'm going to do the skateboard bearing mod today when I drop off my flywheel to get surfaced at the same time. I would like to replace the rod even though I could just hammer it back into shape and clean the treads up, but it has been NLA for a few years. I'm probably going to make my own on a lathe, but I figured it would be good to post some measurements for others.

• The thread on the pushrod is M8x1.0 aka "fine pitch".
• The rod is 95mm end to end
• The threaded part is roughly an inch long
• The shinny end that goes into the clutch master measured out to 5.67mm thick and also about an inch long.
• Belmetric sells a 100mm M8x1.0 threaded bolt for under 2 bucks: Belmetric BFT8X1.0X100FYLW - Hex Bolt 8.8 Yellow Zinc Full
  inc-full-p-14816.html

 

^^^ One more thing to add to your list HyperRex is that the rod is likely hardened to spec at the factory. Keep that in mind when selecting or making a replacement. I wouldn't recommend a fully threaded bolt for longevity; however, you could start with a larger high grade bolt and turn it down, or make it from chromoly rod or other hardenable steel, e.g., 4130, etc..

 

Yeah this is a real problem. I can't find a fine pitch metric bolt that's at least 95mm long that's not full thread and better than class 8.8 which is equivalent only to grade 5. Can't find class 10.9 or 12.9. I've been trying to coax Garage Alpha into sourcing real replacements.

EDIT: ***USE THIS BOLT INSTEAD***
Found a class 10.9 bolt long enough to work from Bolt Depot
Only problem is I'd need to use a vice grip to stop it from rotating if I put it in. That's fine, I think