Clutch pedal broke while driving
#54
Form follows function
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Most will not have the tools to do this--I would suggest taking it to a local machine shop along with the bearing you're going to use--I doubt it would be too expensive to have this bore "installed." The shop time is going to be in the setup; boring it only takes a minute.
It is well worth it.
#56
2SoonJr
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this literally just happened to me as i got home, can someone please confirm that P/N 0727-41-023 is indeed the right one? I'm planning to order one from MAZDA first thing monday morning thank you very much.
#58
NizzleMania Productions
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I'm going to check mine in the morning, but I haven't noticed any issues yet.
not sure if these are good enough, but I use them regularly for all my bearing needs.. only a buck.
8x22 Bearing 8x22x7 Rubber Bearing 608-2RS
not sure if these are good enough, but I use them regularly for all my bearing needs.. only a buck.
8x22 Bearing 8x22x7 Rubber Bearing 608-2RS
#59
2SoonJr
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as an update on my end i ordered the parts i needed yesterday and got them today
and if anyone ever needs to have a reference as to what the part numbers are
Master Clutch Cylinder Push Rod: 0727-41-131
Push Rod Nut: 9992-10-800
and if anyone ever needs to have a reference as to what the part numbers are
Master Clutch Cylinder Push Rod: 0727-41-131
Push Rod Nut: 9992-10-800
#61
2SoonJr
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update on my problem, well after reading the whole thread again and being warned about finding where the main cause that started this problem, once i pulled out the clutch pedal and with out surprise it was the same reasons as juans and every other person that did wheel bearing modification except there wasn't a bushing for the push pin. but thankfully my school has a CNC/Milll shop with cool professors and a local skate board shop that hooked me up with some used but really good wheel bearings for free. here are some pictures on what went down.
after everything was done. my pedal feels a million times better than before. it has a nice smooth and easy feel every time i push in the pedal. especially since i have a new Exedy Stage 1 HD clutch. i would say it feels like a brand new car. best $4 spend.
after everything was done. my pedal feels a million times better than before. it has a nice smooth and easy feel every time i push in the pedal. especially since i have a new Exedy Stage 1 HD clutch. i would say it feels like a brand new car. best $4 spend.
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#63
Full Member
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The push rod is roughly 3 1/2 inches. I had a bolt machined at my work, but it was about a 1/2" short on the threads. I got impatient and just took another bolt, cut off the head, and dremeled the threads off. The pedal feels great and finally returns all the way to the top. I had ordered Miata push rods which I received yesterday. Unfortunately it is about a 1/2" too long.
#67
2SoonJr
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if you are in southern California OCC (orange coast college) is where I had mine done at, really cool professors and they have a huge shop.
#69
Interesting thread, I don't have the problem of a broken push rod, but on one of my clutch pedals (I have more than one only because of powdercoading projects ) it does have a oval hole which I wondered why one was like that and the other wasn't. Figured i would just weld it to be a fixed size like the GOOD pedal lol. I'll try this out on that. Mill don't drill, and use bearing of certain size right? My question for this thread is since I was powdercoating stuff, in my adventures I broke the plastic bit that goes in between the spring and the housing of the clutch. Not the two on the left and right but the centre one that holds the arm of the spring. ( c-shaped) This is an incredibly fragile thing but I broke it the second time taking it apart....Please in all this collected knowledge you ladies and gents know of a part number or a alternative to that. I don't need 3 clutch pedals....
#70
Rotary Freak
There's the clutch pedal, https://mazda.epcdata.ru/rx-7/ajfa06/piping_fuel/4300/..........not available as a separate part.
I take it you're referring to the arm above the pivot point as in post 61? Vaguely remember plastic pivots for the springs at each end in the mount, I'd assume there would be something to protect the alumiinum from the steel there too - if that's what you're talking about, but no memory of it.
Bit of a fiddly job, if there's any jobbing shops nearby, you might try to see if they can replicate in nylon
I take it you're referring to the arm above the pivot point as in post 61? Vaguely remember plastic pivots for the springs at each end in the mount, I'd assume there would be something to protect the alumiinum from the steel there too - if that's what you're talking about, but no memory of it.
Bit of a fiddly job, if there's any jobbing shops nearby, you might try to see if they can replicate in nylon
#71
Yeah I checked the parts manual too, I was just hoping someone knew of a similar part or something. I have the two end plastic bits for the spring but there is one plastic bit in the centre that attached to the arm. I was so careful and it still broke. The noise that thing makes when I clutch in makes me cringe. I don't even have a sample to provide for anyone to replicate. I will try when I get to chance to take a small plastice cube or something and dremel it into shape lol. Until then I'll lurk around here. Cheers
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#72
Because sharing is caring as they say, I have found a potential solution to my portion of the clutch pedal problems. Im sure mazda has their own P/N out there somewhere, maybe not for the FD in particular but I can't imagine them breaking that plastic bit at the dealer and replacing the whole pedal as a result. The piece is called so many names: clutch spring insulator, spring bushing...and some other I forgot. But land rover, nissan, ford and then some made replaceable parts for theirs. This one I bought was a nissan p/n for a silvia I think. P/N 46534-35F10, in case the pics die out over time. This beats me fabricating my own anyday.
#73
Full Member
I am having this same problem, except I haven't broken my push rod - but it IS bent about 15 degrees around the same area people are breaking them, so I think I lucked out. I'm going to do the skateboard bearing mod today when I drop off my flywheel to get surfaced at the same time. I would like to replace the rod even though I could just hammer it back into shape and clean the treads up, but it has been NLA for a few years. I'm probably going to make my own on a lathe, but I figured it would be good to post some measurements for others.
- The thread on the pushrod is M8x1.0 aka "fine pitch".
- The rod is 95mm end to end
- The threaded part is roughly an inch long
- The shinny end that goes into the clutch master measured out to 5.67mm thick and also about an inch long.
- Belmetric sells a 100mm M8x1.0 threaded bolt for under 2 bucks: Belmetric BFT8X1.0X100FYLW - Hex Bolt 8.8 Yellow Zinc Full
inc-full-p-14816.html
Last edited by HyperRex; 04-12-21 at 01:52 PM.
#74
Form follows function
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^^^ One more thing to add to your list HyperRex is that the rod is likely hardened to spec at the factory. Keep that in mind when selecting or making a replacement. I wouldn't recommend a fully threaded bolt for longevity; however, you could start with a larger high grade bolt and turn it down, or make it from chromoly rod or other hardenable steel, e.g., 4130, etc..
#75
Full Member
Yeah this is a real problem. I can't find a fine pitch metric bolt that's at least 95mm long that's not full thread and better than class 8.8 which is equivalent only to grade 5. Can't find class 10.9 or 12.9. I've been trying to coax Garage Alpha into sourcing real replacements.
EDIT: ***USE THIS BOLT INSTEAD***
Found a class 10.9 bolt long enough to work from Bolt Depot
Only problem is I'd need to use a vice grip to stop it from rotating if I put it in. That's fine, I think
EDIT: ***USE THIS BOLT INSTEAD***
Found a class 10.9 bolt long enough to work from Bolt Depot
Only problem is I'd need to use a vice grip to stop it from rotating if I put it in. That's fine, I think
Last edited by HyperRex; 04-14-21 at 01:20 PM.