Here's my build list for Phase 1, it's being built with a EFR 8374 in mind for Phase 2

Is there anything else I should consider adding now while the engine is out and tore down?

13B RE UIM/LIM
TB Adapter Plate
BNR S3 Turbos
Adaptronic ECU
Innovate Wideband MTXL
ACT HDSS
FEED Sonic SR
FEED Sonic PP
FEED Sonic FP
Greddy HC Dif Cover
Greddy Oil Cap
Greddy V-Mount
Greddy Pulley Kit
Greddy BOV FV
Greddy Magnetic Plug
Greddy Radiator Cap
SB 25 Row Dual Oil Coolers
SB Ignition Coils Kit
FFE Fuelab Mini FPR
FFE Idler Pulley
FFE Engine Mounts
FFE Pri Fuel Rail
FFE Sec Fuel Rail
FFE Oil Pedestal
FFE Oil Filler Neck
FFE Inject (ID2000/725)
Revolution Outlet Tank
CMS Oil Pan Brace
Banzai Hi Torq Starter
Radium Surge Tank
Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
Turblown Stud Kit

Any advice is greatly appreciated,

Thanks
-Donovan

 

Port your housings.

 

Are you missing nearly everything for a build? Seems like a lot of nice but unnecessary parts. Why buy stage 3 bnrs if you'll be switching to efr?

 

I'm really hoping to get the car to run by Sevenstock and I got a incredible deal on the BNR's compared to saving another 5K for a 8374. This will also allow me to adjust to more power before going straight to 450+ with the EFR. The engine already has a Mild Street Port. I'm buying nice "unnecessary" parts because I'm a artist and I want to build something beautiful and respectable, aesthetics matter to me.

 

One thing I was considering was a water/meth injection system. but the only way I'd do that is if I could source the extra large capacity rear wiper fluid container to house the water/meth. Not exactly a easy part to find.

Any other parts I should have on my radar?

 

I like the OEM rear reservoir - but that area CAN be used for something custom.




If I recall... this is Dale Clark's. I'm sure he can comment further on the project.

 

That's awesome, thanks for sharing Matt.

I just came across this and it peaked my interest as I plan on running a decent stereo system along with a few additional gauges.

IRP 140 Amp Alternator | IRPerformance

 

13B RE UIM/LIM - Elite Rotary is coming out with their Cosmo RE UIM and LIM which will be (should be) a much better setup and wont require a TB adapter, FD TB will bolt on


Greddy HC Dif Cover - This is unnecessary unless you are having temp issues in the diff, many people race their FD with their stock Diff Cover and have no issues with overheating. Its not useful for bling either as no one will be able to see it...a good upgrade is the '09+ RX-8 diff cover. I've read a few times that people had leaking problems with the Greddy Diff Cover...

Revolution Outlet Tank - I have two of these and they are very nice pieces, they polish up nice and look bling, but the stock one works just fine (so why do I have two?) I modded mine with an aluminum neck to fit a pressure cap to eliminate the AST. The stock cap is just a screw-on

Before:


After:



Turblown Stud Kit - Unless you are making insane HP numbers I see no reason why replace the stock studs. Plenty of folk making big HP with stock studs

Canadian/Euro big rear washer tank is nice - I have one and regardless of use, its nice to have a larger tank.

If you'll use the IRP 140 amp Alt, make sure the rest of your electrical installations is up to par as our cars are older than Jesus and very sensitive, especially when it comes to electricity

 

Awesome stuff Spalato!

Do you feel even after I upgrade to the 8374 and I'm pushing 450 I still wouldn't need the stud kit?

I actually already have the 13B RE UIM and TB Adaptor Plate.

 

You won't need the studs.

Beautiful setup dude. I have the same but mine isn't polished. I have it blacked out.

 

IMO the cost of studs is $400-$500(minimal in the grand scheme) if the engine is already out being built/rebuilt to me it seems like a no-brainer, I know several reputable engine builders who prefer to stud/pin if making over 450hp on a 13B. With that said there have been many others who have stock tension bolts with no issues

 

I'd go with a Haltech Platinum Sport Or Elite or AEM Infinity any day over an Adaptronic. More proven, better support, etc. However bottom line should be what your tuner is comfortable with.

I have chromoly stud kits in stock for $399. Far stronger than others and made in the USA. I recommend studding for anything approaching 500 hp.

The Elite Rotary Shop oil pan braces fit far better than others I've tried.

I see fuel rails but what about lines, etc?

Do you have the parts to rebuild the actual motor?

If you plan to go EFR I'd save your cash and wait. I have EFR kits coming out soon.

 

I should have stated earlier, all parts have been paid for with the exception of the following

-Radium Surge Tank
-Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
-Turblown Stud Kit
-Greddy HC Dif Cover
-IRP 140 Amp Alternator

I haven't purchased a rebuild kit yet nor the fuel lines. Any recommendations that would fall in line with the rest of the build would be appreciated

 

What are your goals with the car? I.e. Road racing, drag, fast as Fu#k street car etc? We can make better suggestions if we know a little more.

 

If you get the Bosch 044 make sure you use a check valve. Otherwise the fuel system will take excessively long to prime between starts. Jay Racing sells one that screws right onto the pump.

LOW PROFILE Bosch 044 High Flow Check Valve, -6AN Outlet [BFP-CV6L] - $50.00 : Jay Racing also make a -8 one.

You need this too
Bosch Fuel Pump Pre-filter Fuel Sock For 044 [BFP-PF1] - $35.00 : Jay Racing

I have stud kits and alternators in stock.

For the rebuild I recommend RX Parts apex seals with Atkins solid corner seals. Everything else Mazda oem unless you want viton orings to run E85.

 

Goal right now is a street toy that will be used 3-4 times a week. Eventually It will transition into a track toy. Hence my focus on quality track oriented parts. Reliability is a focus as well for this particular build with the BNR's.

Thanks for the suggestions regarding the fuel pump.

 

If you're going to do the 044 in-tank radium surge tank then you could very well hold off and purchase those two together. I'm going that route and opted to replace my 044 with an aeromotive stealth 340 (iirc) in the main tank. Your lifter pump only need to be able to supply the amount of fuel ACTUALLY consumed by the engine at any given time, since it's running in a much lower pressure environment it's under less stress as well. The pump in the surge tank bears the brunt of the workload.