I am about to go check out a 13B-REW swap that supposedly "runs good, be good engine"
I need to know if a transmission and starter off a 13B 6 port N/A will bolt on to the engine.

All I need to do is crank the engine to test it, nothing else. I will be using a TII trans later on. I know the trans will bolt on, but will the starter work?

It is just for testing purposed.

 

I need to do this

 

It's the same aftermarket part number, so I don't see why not.

 

Excellent, that's what I thought. Now to take a trany with me so I can crank an engine

Hahah

Thanks, and I will let you guys know how it goes.

 

Just note if it has a rear iron setup for the Auto Transmission.
You will lose a mounting point.(no biggie to test the engine though)
here is a bracket I made up that shows the area.
I used the 2 auto starter mounting bolt holes to secure the new plate I made which in turn fully secures the trans on the driver's side.

 

Excellent so I bought the engine and thanks for all of you prompt replies. I did not even need to run a compression test as it a clear by turning it by hand that the rear housing/rotor had no compression.

Further inspection revealed a missing apex seal and one cracked on the rear iron. All that being said I paid only $500 USD for it. Being that this person paid $1800+450 for shipping was very well worth it.
But hey, it's a complete longblock and a very very clean looking one so far. In the event the seal catastrophe caused damage to the housing I have some clean N/A s5 housing I might be able to use for now until proper replacements are sourced. I did not see your post, Mysteryx69 until this very moment (After I got done w/ business? but I have a good reason to suspect it's an automatic car engine. Little research shows that the ECU a N3A8 ECU which is, as far as I know a J-sep auto ECU. Now I have heard stories of importers slapping any ECU that will fit to make up for a missing or clearly damaged ECU. We will no soon since I have not done a detailed check.

Any way here are the picture I took, sorry about the quality, I just got home an I am tired and literally sick.

Going off the ECU it appears it might be an auto, but I could not see what you're referring to on the picture, but I didn't really take a close look (It's dark and cold)






This was supposed to be a picture showing how clean the engine looks haha, again sorry about the quality. Some HD ones coming soon.

 

In my pic,If you see the bolt that is out a little bit....The manual rear iron would have a place to put a bolt there.
That rusty piece is my Bracket I made up.(not bad little contour job huh???).The 2 bolts that hold it are in the automatic starter Threaded holes,to hold it on there.
The Bracket held on to that,makes a mount so that "that loose bolt" to the trans can hold the trans and engine together better on that side.(of course I tightened that bolt up..)

 

Here's a picture of my engine on that side. What do you think?

 

Not a bad price. I picked up my spare Rew long block and trans for about $400 off of a buddy of mine. Just hope the rear housing isn't damaged .

The Rew housings a quite a bit spendy.

 

They are proud of the housings. For the cost of one housing I can buy a bare LS1 block, which I was going to do, but the voices in my head kept hissing "Search for a turbo 13b instead"

Nevertheless, the damage to my finances is done. I'm counting on the rear housing being scored but I haven't been able to see any noticeable damage through the exhaust ports (trust me I've spent 2 hours looking though them )

Now I have a spare good running S5 N/A engine I am selling and migh just keep it for the housings. They seem to be good.

As the engine sits as of now


Parts so far, keeping it neat and clean

 

Bump The engine is stamped N3A1, the lower manifold is stamped N3B7 an there's a few more different N3's? I need help if possible determining if this is a auto or manual.

From what I've gathered
N3A1 is USDM M/T
N3B7 is Euro spec M/T
N3A8 is USDM? A/T

None of this makes sense :cry:

 

you pics aren't quite good enough to make a positive ID, and i'm not in front of the parts catalog either. there are a couple of odd things too.

the throttle body elbow is black, which is 94+, if it has a hose attached at the rear, it has AWS, if there is a plug it does not have AWS. the later engines loose the hose bung completely.

the water pump housing has the separate radiator cap adaptor sometime in 1996, they made this 1 piece. this makes engine 94-95.

the AT cars have an extra sensor on the front of the thermostat housing, bringing the total to 2. the other is the water level sensor. can't quite see what you have.

you appear to have the RHD throttle cable brackets, LHD is different as the cable has to wrap around, vs going straight, bracket is different, and i think its on a different bolt as well.

cannot see the harness but an LHD car will have the harness going to the right, and the RHD goes to the left.

i can't quite see if there is an EGR on the lower intake, if yes there will also be a pipe for the EGR in the exhaust manifold. the US and Euro cars had EGR, Japan did not.

the odd part is that you have a flywheel and manual rear housing

 

Take a look at the rear iron and compare it to the examples here. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...d-help-925714/