Where in the SE area, specifically in NC, can I get housings and irons resurfaced. I'm not absolutely sure they need to be resurfaced, but better safe than sorry right? However, I read somewhere about getting them resurfaced and having to nitride them again or something. I'm deploying within the next couple months and I'm trying to rebuild and install my engine before I go, so time is a factor as well. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

No one?

I called RotorSports racing yesterday and they said they don't normally offer that anymore if they're not building the engine themselves, but he sounded like he'd do it for me anyway. But he said they usually wait until they have a truckload and take them all at once, and I think he said that would take 2 or 3 weeks and they don't have time right now to spec the pieces afterward. I can check the specs, I would just like to get them back from resurfacing a little sooner than 2 or 3 weeks if possible.

 

I have always heard that this is not a good idea from well known rotary builders.

 

Really? which shops/builders said that??

 

Pick one and just go and ask about what they think. Wont take long. If I mention any from down here you wont have a clue. Spend the money and buy new.

 

I do know few builders down in FL and wondering where you are getting this info about resurfacing is a bad idea and which "well known" people have said this.

Buying new is also NOT the best solutions...

 

Amen!! I am from So. Fl myself and I know Pettit would never say such a thing and they do not get more well known than that in Florida.
Resurfacing is fine as long as you acurratly measure all of the applicable clearances and it is not warped.

 

Knock your selfs out then. Half *** gets half the way in my book. I'm not trying to get into the I know this person and I know that person. If your ever down here I will walk you down to any of the shops down here and look at your face while you get your answer.

 

When it comes to housings WOW why am I even answering this one. lol

 

LOL! All I asked was whom you heard about this and who are these well known builders. Its not about "Half ***" building your engine but HOW accurate and whom you should listen to.

IF some 10 year old kid told me to invest all my money in cracker jack/junk stock box because he/she tells me his/her idol (who might be Britney Spears or his/her dumbass friend) told them to invest in some junk stocks,.. because its an useless info if its true... Do you get my point why I asked whom are these so called, "well known rotary builders"??

By they way, If you know anything about rotary, you should know, new or used, it shouldn't make too much difference when things are in spec. Because something is new and because you are spending more money than someone else doesn't always mean better..

 

Might be a good "possibility" you were wearing pampers when I was driving my first rotary but if your ever in town we can go out for some beers ( I will be drinking gingerale) lol and we can take a cruise down to some of the shops down here and get our answer. It's never even been an option. Now don't get it twisted I have reused housing but if they were at the point of needing to be resurfaced that would be called junk to me. But if it works for you. Then that’s great. I not taking that away from you. It's just my opinion because of what I have been told from the best out here.

 

Well I don't really have the money for new housings, and if these can get resurfaced and still be within spec I don't see the problem. If I had the money, would I buy new? Of course, but if that was the case I'd buy a whole Mazda reman. Besides, these are already streetported so I'm trying to reuse them as much as possible. I've never heard from anyone that resurfacing was bad. If that was the case it wouldn't even be offered as an option.

BTW, the same shops that were saying this, were they the same people selling the new housings? LOL

So, with that said, does anyone in the SE (specifically NC) do good resurfacing with a quick turnaround? lol

 

just to be clear, your talking about getting the side housings lapped correct? or are you refering to resurfacing a rotor housing? or both.. hahaha

honestly from what i have seen resurfacing a rotor housing isn't that much cheaper than buying a new one, so in these situations i would just look for a good used set.

Lapping the irons on the other hand is quite alright IF you are not taking off too much material. if you need to remove more than about .004 then you shouldn't bother.

measure the specs and find out how much really needs to be taken off.

 

Well I was planning on both irons AND housings. I'm not sure how much it costs for resurfacing, I had assumed it would be around $50-$100 for each piece at the most. I'll post some pics so you guys can tell me what you think. There is a little gouge on each end housing, not sure how much would have to be taken off for that either.

Now, other thoughts...I've been checking out rebuild kits from different places. I like that RotorSports Racing has Viton seals as part of their kit, but I also like the solid corner seals from Atkins and the Classic or Superseals from Rotary Aviation for apex seals. So I've been thinking about piecing together a kit. What do you guys think? What are your thoughts on all this and the parts that I listed?

 

i always piece together my rebuild kits, you the best deal, and you get all the stuff you want.

check with Rx7 World in rock hill, i know he offers it, but i dont know how long it takes.

 

I have two 13BT blocks that need rebuilding, im piecing together the seal sets too.. definitely RA apex seals, I believe oem is best for springs and such, not sure about the coolant/oil/side seals though

you will hear a lot of crap about the RA seals scoring housings, but I think its worth the extra protection.. my current motor is an RA rebuild from a few years back, with 50k on it. runs like a champ, even after several pings and various abuse by previous owners, including from what im told, 14+ psi on stock fuel/ecu lol

i think ill send mine up to you masin to get rebuilt, i need to verify with you what all parts i will need to order though

 

So what do you usually get for your kits? What specifically do you look for in your rebuild kits? So you get a better deal that way too? I called RX-7 World and he said he doesn't have the equipment to resurface but someone who did was on his way over and he's supposed to call me.

What do YOU get besides RA seals? I have always heard they were the best apex seals, other than ceramic anyway and who has the money for that? Haha. I do like what I hear about RA seals though. And I figure the solid corner seals are a good bet too.

Furthermore, where are you guys shopping for your kits?

 

I got the Atkins master kit for the TII, Bearings and all ran $1,168 to my door.

 

thats what i mean, i dont buy a kit, i just piece it together from various places. it also depends are what all you want to replace. like getting solid corner seals, thats really not worth it unless you have money to **** of this thing is gonna make really big power. the basic stuff you need is a gasket kit, apex seals and springs, corner seal springs, side seal springs, front main seal, and rear main seal. thats all i can think of off the top of my head. if i missed something sombody chime in. and that list is counting on you dont need to replace rotors, housings, etc.

jamin, whenever you are ready for a rebuild, shoot me a pm and we will work out the details.

-masin

 

Sure, next time I'm down by central FL (since I do need to goto Tampa), I will ring ya. Maybe you could take me to those famous rotary gurus... LOL!

But to answer your question, Yes, I lap my irons even if its brand new. Just to touch them up so that they are perfectly flat! Even the sides of the rotorhousing that touches the irons will be lapped just a bit for that perfect fit. You should check into what lapping does.. If you understand, you would know why top builders such as Rick Engman has couple of lap tables in his shop.... They certainly don't always use new housings when they were tearing down and building 4 rotor engines (If you understand what the cost of some of the irons)

Again, as long as things are within spec, you could use, used parts.. Point of those who race with 3 and 4 rotor engines.. and when special irons could cost upwards 2k to 10+K (4 rotor engine quoted when i met Rick Engman to be around 100K).

 

I can agree with you to a certain extent. But we are talking about some one looking to save some money and making a daily driver. "I think" You just quantum leaped your why in to a new dimension. 3 and 4 rotor engine can be tore down after two passes just to see what the oil taste like inside. But like I said if it works then do it. Hope to see you soon. I have the hook ups in the resorts down here next to Disney so bring the family.

 

Sounds good AC! Hope you could hook me up BIG with those discounts at Disney.. Because I need a new housings.. I kid, I kid.

 

Well the engine I'm building I actually got from my friend, and he blew the corner seals, so I will need those anyway. And the engine has been torn apart for a while now so some of the other seals and springs are missing anyway, and there is a very light rust (like on brake rotors) on some of the irons. Basically, being that the engine has been apart for some time now, I'm not sure what all I have so I want to get everything I might need. I'm counting on all the seals and gaskets gone for one. Thanks for the rundown though, I'll keep that in mind.

 

oh, in that case, go ahead and get the solid ones. as far as the rust goes, the first time you spin the engine around that will go away, so don't worry about it. but i would put a light coating of oil over those to prevent further rusting.

 

Bryan from RotorSports was telling me to stick with original corner seals cause the rubber inserts were designed to give a little flexability for the seals, but I still wonder about the solid seals. They're only $65 for the set anyway. Now, as far as the small gouges in the irons, they're really hard to see with my camera, apparently it wasn't made to take close-up pics. I put pics of the housings up there too.