looking for a good shop in NC
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looking for a good shop in NC
ok people i used to live in NC(FT Bragg) i am transferring back there since then i have picked up a 86 GXL that i swapped a 87 Jspec into with a MicroTech and some other goodies....
anyways im looking for a good shop that can rebuild and tune this motor but with more go fast stuff(too much to list right now) i would do it myself but would rather pay to have it done right and reliable, well as reliable as a FC can be.
any suggestions? looking to move there in july and start the build sometime in the fall.
please either PM me or post with what you know.
Thanks
-ColdSeven
anyways im looking for a good shop that can rebuild and tune this motor but with more go fast stuff(too much to list right now) i would do it myself but would rather pay to have it done right and reliable, well as reliable as a FC can be.
any suggestions? looking to move there in july and start the build sometime in the fall.
please either PM me or post with what you know.
Thanks
-ColdSeven
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thanks man do they have a web site that i could check out some of their work?
3 hours will be fine if they're worth it, as far as how good they'd do.
3 hours will be fine if they're worth it, as far as how good they'd do.
#4
It's only Rock and Roll
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Yeah they do. Did my T2 about 7 or 8 years ago and it's still kicking ***.
http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/
http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/
#5
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I just moved back to Fayetteville myself recently. I went to a place called Auto Tech on Cumberland Road to fill my nitrous. They seem like a group of decent people, but I cant really vouch for their work yet.
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Turbo II;
thanks man, could you pm me your set up im looking for a reliable 350ish WHP for a semi-daily driver and i am wondering what kind of numbers you put down and how it drives....
thanks
thanks man, could you pm me your set up im looking for a reliable 350ish WHP for a semi-daily driver and i am wondering what kind of numbers you put down and how it drives....
thanks
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#9
It's only Rock and Roll
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I had them do a what is called a stage 2 rebuild now plus some other stuff. I also had them do the following: new downpipe, removed pre-cat, high flow main cat, GReddy PE exhaust, cleaned primary and new 720 secondary injectors, SAFC and other needed gauges and then tune the thing. If I had to guess since I've never had it on a dyno maybe 225HP. I wanted a car that was bullet proof engine wise and it's been that for the last 7 or 8 years. For the HPDE stuff and other road things I do I don't need HP, I prefer handling. I have more than enough power to suit my needs and since I redid my suspension much better handling to take advantage of it..
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yeah it has a street ported S4 Jspec in it. mods are as follows;
atkins rebuild kit(this is why i want to redo it)
no emissions
FMIC
HKS SSQV
Modded TB
750cc Primes/1200cc Secondaries RC engineering
Walboro 255lph fp
stock turbo stock boost
also running a Microtech LT10s tuned by Archer racing(not the greatest either)
i will be installing a new turbo it's a mutt built for a 500hp supra but now he is going adifferent route.
that's it for now...im looking to get it rebuilt by a good shop this fall. im thinking clean up the street port, kouki S5 rotors, coolant mod, 3mm seals, that's what im looking at for now. im far from an expert on rotaries so im not sure what else to do. i want to make it as reliable as i can for street/track use and not spend more than $4k-$5k on redoing this. i will also pick up the HKS hypermax coil overs, and repaint it during this build.
please add your input...if you've done something like this what has worked?
thanks
-ColdSeven
atkins rebuild kit(this is why i want to redo it)
no emissions
FMIC
HKS SSQV
Modded TB
750cc Primes/1200cc Secondaries RC engineering
Walboro 255lph fp
stock turbo stock boost
also running a Microtech LT10s tuned by Archer racing(not the greatest either)
i will be installing a new turbo it's a mutt built for a 500hp supra but now he is going adifferent route.
that's it for now...im looking to get it rebuilt by a good shop this fall. im thinking clean up the street port, kouki S5 rotors, coolant mod, 3mm seals, that's what im looking at for now. im far from an expert on rotaries so im not sure what else to do. i want to make it as reliable as i can for street/track use and not spend more than $4k-$5k on redoing this. i will also pick up the HKS hypermax coil overs, and repaint it during this build.
please add your input...if you've done something like this what has worked?
thanks
-ColdSeven
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word on the street is there apex seals are too soft and the like to exit through the turbo...i'd just feel better about going a different route with them like 3mm seals from RotorSports they sound more reliable.
im looking for input on ways to make the motor more reliable i don't really need to go crazy with it just looking for a solid 300-350ish WHP
im looking for input on ways to make the motor more reliable i don't really need to go crazy with it just looking for a solid 300-350ish WHP
#13
Rotary Mechanic
well from personal experience in the many engines ive built ive yet to see that happen to any of them and all i use is atkins and so do my cousins and uncles in P.R . Have you looked at rotary resurrection its somewhere in TN i beleive. I ve still yet to find a decent microtech tuner in this area,i just ordered 3 of them yesterday for some FD's im working on.I might one of my buddys from florida when i get them done to get them tuned.
#14
I "lost" my emissions....
contact coolcars44, he runs a small rotary garage greenville/ little washington nca nd is unfriggin believable, he will do it right and do it cheap. plus he is always parting cars out so any that you may need he will have most likely. shoot him a pm.
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PuntoRotary
like i said im no expert on rotaries i know a enough but no expert, Im not saying that atkins apex seals are junk for sure, just that i've heard rumors so i can only go off of that....not trying to criticize the parts you use man.
#16
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The atkins seals are probably a bit softer than oem, but the 3mm versions should be able to hold 400+rwhp without issue.
Bear in mind it is not always who builds the engine but what parts are put into it. Aside from proprietary options such as porting, oil and coolant mods (aka snake oil), there's really only one way to put the engine together and have it work properly. Given the exact same parts and budget, a builder of 1 year and a builder of 20 years experience will probably get the same results. This is not a piston engine where all clearances have to be set by hand and should be varied depending on application/intended use; there is really no machine work and the spring-loaded nature of the seals means they seat themselves properly.
I build solid engines from used parts for 1500 bucks, but of course I can build an even tighter engine for $3000.
Bear in mind it is not always who builds the engine but what parts are put into it. Aside from proprietary options such as porting, oil and coolant mods (aka snake oil), there's really only one way to put the engine together and have it work properly. Given the exact same parts and budget, a builder of 1 year and a builder of 20 years experience will probably get the same results. This is not a piston engine where all clearances have to be set by hand and should be varied depending on application/intended use; there is really no machine work and the spring-loaded nature of the seals means they seat themselves properly.
I build solid engines from used parts for 1500 bucks, but of course I can build an even tighter engine for $3000.
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