Rtek Rtek 2.1 Idling Issue (S4 TII)
07-03-12, 08:36 PM
#1
Rtek 2.1 Idling Issue (S4 TII)
Let me first state that I have a 1987 Mazda Rx-7 Turbo II using the Rtek 2.1 ECU with a Palm M515 PDA. The car is lightly modified containing a few engine mods. These modification that are due to engine performance are as follows:
Full Emissions Delete
BAC Delete
Banjo Bolt Mod (Pulsation Dampner Removal)
GReddy FMIC Kit
Odyssey Mini Battery
TID Mod w/ HKS filter
Rebuilt S5 Turbo and manifold
Freeflowing exhaust
HKs BOV
550cc/720cc Injector Combo
Hallman MBC
FD Fuel Pump
The car seems like it wants to idle on its own after it's warmed up, slowly dies over a period of around 3 seconds. The car runs fine otherwise when revved up. I did some fiddling with the car and nothing was really working. When I had the BAC on I adjusted the screw on it. Also didn't help with the idle.
I followed all of the directions in the RTek manual and think I have adjusted everything correctly. Injector Setup is at 550/720, ATP is unchecked, EGR is removed so unchecked, Boost Based timing unchecked, Cranking fuel is at its original setting. I could not find a solution in the idle set-up section. I think that this is likely the problem.
After a little while I started to narrow things down. I checked for vacuum leaks, grounds, and TPS. There was no other options so I narrowed it down to the ECU, so I returned everything that I had previously adjusted back to its stock setting. Plugged in the stock ecu and fired her up. The car idled fine at around 800 RPM with the BAC removed.
If anyone could help me get this Rtek to work properly I will be really grateful. Thanks
Full Emissions Delete
BAC Delete
Banjo Bolt Mod (Pulsation Dampner Removal)
GReddy FMIC Kit
Odyssey Mini Battery
TID Mod w/ HKS filter
Rebuilt S5 Turbo and manifold
Freeflowing exhaust
HKs BOV
550cc/720cc Injector Combo
Hallman MBC
FD Fuel Pump
The car seems like it wants to idle on its own after it's warmed up, slowly dies over a period of around 3 seconds. The car runs fine otherwise when revved up. I did some fiddling with the car and nothing was really working. When I had the BAC on I adjusted the screw on it. Also didn't help with the idle.
I followed all of the directions in the RTek manual and think I have adjusted everything correctly. Injector Setup is at 550/720, ATP is unchecked, EGR is removed so unchecked, Boost Based timing unchecked, Cranking fuel is at its original setting. I could not find a solution in the idle set-up section. I think that this is likely the problem.
After a little while I started to narrow things down. I checked for vacuum leaks, grounds, and TPS. There was no other options so I narrowed it down to the ECU, so I returned everything that I had previously adjusted back to its stock setting. Plugged in the stock ecu and fired her up. The car idled fine at around 800 RPM with the BAC removed.
If anyone could help me get this Rtek to work properly I will be really grateful. Thanks
07-03-12, 09:16 PM
#2
Let me first state that I have a 1987 Mazda Rx-7 Turbo II using the Rtek 2.1 ECU with a Palm M515 PDA. The car is lightly modified containing a few engine mods. These modification that are due to engine performance are as follows:
Full Emissions Delete
BAC Delete
Banjo Bolt Mod (Pulsation Dampner Removal)
GReddy FMIC Kit
Odyssey Mini Battery
TID Mod w/ HKS filter
Rebuilt S5 Turbo and manifold
Freeflowing exhaust
HKs BOV
550cc/720cc Injector Combo
Hallman MBC
FD Fuel Pump
The car seems like it wants to idle on its own after it's warmed up, slowly dies over a period of around 3 seconds. The car runs fine otherwise when revved up. I did some fiddling with the car and nothing was really working. When I had the BAC on I adjusted the screw on it. Also didn't help with the idle.
I followed all of the directions in the RTek manual and think I have adjusted everything correctly. Injector Setup is at 550/720, ATP is unchecked, EGR is removed so unchecked, Boost Based timing unchecked, Cranking fuel is at its original setting. I could not find a solution in the idle set-up section. I think that this is likely the problem.
After a little while I started to narrow things down. I checked for vacuum leaks, grounds, and TPS. There was no other options so I narrowed it down to the ECU, so I returned everything that I had previously adjusted back to its stock setting. Plugged in the stock ecu and fired her up. The car idled fine at around 800 RPM with the BAC removed.
If anyone could help me get this Rtek to work properly I will be really grateful. Thanks
Full Emissions Delete
BAC Delete
Banjo Bolt Mod (Pulsation Dampner Removal)
GReddy FMIC Kit
Odyssey Mini Battery
TID Mod w/ HKS filter
Rebuilt S5 Turbo and manifold
Freeflowing exhaust
HKs BOV
550cc/720cc Injector Combo
Hallman MBC
FD Fuel Pump
The car seems like it wants to idle on its own after it's warmed up, slowly dies over a period of around 3 seconds. The car runs fine otherwise when revved up. I did some fiddling with the car and nothing was really working. When I had the BAC on I adjusted the screw on it. Also didn't help with the idle.
I followed all of the directions in the RTek manual and think I have adjusted everything correctly. Injector Setup is at 550/720, ATP is unchecked, EGR is removed so unchecked, Boost Based timing unchecked, Cranking fuel is at its original setting. I could not find a solution in the idle set-up section. I think that this is likely the problem.
After a little while I started to narrow things down. I checked for vacuum leaks, grounds, and TPS. There was no other options so I narrowed it down to the ECU, so I returned everything that I had previously adjusted back to its stock setting. Plugged in the stock ecu and fired her up. The car idled fine at around 800 RPM with the BAC removed.
If anyone could help me get this Rtek to work properly I will be really grateful. Thanks
I was going to suggest a vacuum issue, now this has me worried about doing an emmissions removal on mine.
07-03-12, 09:36 PM
#3
Emissions isn't the issue. As I've stated above the car runs/idles fine with the stock ECU. The ECU is probably improperly set up is my best guess. I just need someone to tell me what I'm doing wrong in this case. If you want to be honest an emissions delete is the best thing you can do to this car because it simplifies the engine bay much more.
07-04-12, 02:11 PM
#4
I too would suggest a vac leak. What you describe is exactly what my car did when I tried runing the n390 cosmo afm (which bypasses more sure than stock). It would "idle" fine while the thermo wax held the throttle plates open, and I could drive it and rev it fine. However as soon as it warmed up, it would die within seconds, and if I start it up it would go up to around 1200 then slowly drop over a period of about 3 seconds and die.
Emissions removal is great, when done right, fast more simple, less chance for leaks.
The only settings that would affect idle are injector preset, variable resistor, or timing. Make sure those are correct, and that the connection to the afm is solid.
Also, why would you remove the bac?
Emissions removal is great, when done right, fast more simple, less chance for leaks.
The only settings that would affect idle are injector preset, variable resistor, or timing. Make sure those are correct, and that the connection to the afm is solid.
Also, why would you remove the bac?
07-05-12, 03:28 PM
#6
Oh wow I'm embarrassed to say this. I previously thought that I had reset the ECU so after going over everything else I reset it. After resetting it the car still wouldn't idle till it had warmed up. After I put in a few setting and redid the "initial set coupler" 5 step setup the car runs and idles like a champ. I got it idling perfect with the BAC installed and A/C initiallized. After that I got a little more interested and disconnected the plug to the BAC to see how it would run without it. I bumped up the voltage slightly on the VarRes and it idles even better. Tested with A/C initialized as well. Considering removing the BAC once again for simplicity after I test drive the car with it off. Anyway thanks guys!
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08-22-12, 11:08 PM
#8
I did remove the BAC and it still runs great. When you put too much load on the engine though it may stall out for example say you're idling at a light you decide to turn the A/C on (A big load) your idle may drop a bit, but then I decide to open up my window (another load) at the same time the engine may bog out. I just step the the throttle a little to solve this so it's no real problem. I can deal with that for a cleaner looking engine bay
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