sublime42o

Well I matched them up with the ones on my buddys rx7 that runs perfectly fine.... But I guess I could have screwed that up somehow too. I searched on the forum and looked in the FSM and I couldn't find any info on how they are supposed to be hooked up, could someone please enlighten me?

turbo2ltr: any idea what might be causing my connection problem?

sublime42o

Truth be told I got them wrong again, so I put them how they REALLY should be and now the car does run a little better. However, I'm still having no luck with the ECU properly displaying values on logs and on the PDA. Also, the same backfiring when giving much throttle and not being able to rev past 4k rpms is still a problem despite the fixed plug wires. Any ideas?

sublime42o

I was able to finally capture a log of the parameters you suggested, here it is.

Thanks again for all your help guys, I hope I can get this baby running better soon

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

Are you running off the battery in the car? You said something abou a long battery cable...

Any error codes displayed on the diag screen?

sublime42o

I relocated the battery to back under the hatch. The positive battery cable is pretty long I could probably cut like 3-4 ft off of it and it would still reach. There aren't any error codes displaying.

sublime42o

Ok I just cut like 3.5ft off of my battery cable. Here is a new log that I just took today, the car seemed to be revving a bit better, but after my o2 sensor warmed up it was showing that I was running very very rich, it is a narrowband, but its better than nothin! Maybe the stock FPR cant keep up with the Walbro 255 and I've just got too much fuel pressure?

thanks again,

Tom

sublime42o

I guess I can't take this problem to rtek for support since its something wrong with the car and not the rtek.... and I guess I can't take this problem to the reg 2nd gen forum because it deals with rtek 2.0 logs... any ideas where I could get a little more consistant help? I really appreciate all the help I've gotten so far but I'm running into a deadline here for getting the car running.... I realize its no one's duty to help me, but I could really use the help because I'm totally in the dark when it comes to analyzing these logs to see things that may be wrong.

thanks!

Tom

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

The logs are very perplexing. Are these logs while you are driving or just revving the thing?

There is something majorly wrong with the motor. It's not something that can easily be diagnosed by looking at logs.

Between it not building boost, the IPW all over the place and vaccum seems quite low it could be anything.

Sounds like it might be time to take it to someone. A problem if this magnetude should not be hard to find.

Have you done compression checks? Have you pulled to plugs one by one to check for misfires? Have you checked for boost/vacuum leaks?

You logged ATP analog, but it didn't change. do you have anything connected to it? Is the ATP sensor still connected to it? Do you have the ECU in "ATP Analog" mode?

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

Is the long battery cable of sufficient gauge?

Logging the fuel and timing indexes are useless right now. Leave them out as well as the air temps. But you should log airflow, o2 and battery volts next time (in addition to everything else you logged).

Don't log it, but make sure the coolant temp shown on the logger is about right. (i.e. doesnt show 100 degrees when you know the motor is warmed up)

sublime42o

The logs are while I'm just revving it.

I don't have the option of taking it to someone unfortunately, I just spent all the money I had trying to get this baby driving.

I haven't done any compression checks, but the motor was rebuilt around 7k miles ago, and it ran perfectly fine before it was out of comission for a year while I worked on the turbo project.

I haven't pulled the plugs one by one to check for misfires, any help on how to do that?

I haven't checked for boost/vacuum leaks yet either, but very possibly could be the culprit since this is the first time I've gotten the car running since adding a ton of turbocharger mods.

The ATP sensor should be still connected to it, I haven't messed with that input yet, so it should be in stock form. The ECU is set as "use atp as analog input"

Yes the battery cable is, I'm not sure exactly what gauge it is but its the cable that came with the summit racing kit, and seems very substantial, just as big if not bigger than the stock cable.

What kind of coolant temps should I be looking for when the engine is fully warmed?

thanks a ton!

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

A lot can happen in a year of sitting.

I know we all have to learn somewhere, but the term "in over your head" comes to mind. This is a very basic procedure that you should know way before getting into performance tuning.

Pull the plugs one by one. You are listening for a change in exhaust/idle. If there is no change or less of a change as compared to the others when you pull it off, that chamber isn't firing or isn't fully firing and should be investigated.

Possible problems include low/no compresion, fuel delivery or ignition issues.


This is something very simple that should have been done at the first sign of trouble, knowing the type of work that had been done just prior.

Have you set the altitude in the ECU setup to match your altitude? If the ATP sensor is still connected, there is no reason to have it in analog mode. Take the ECU out of "Use ATP as analog" mode.

200, +/- 20 degrees. Or there abouts.

sublime42o

all condescension aside....

Thank you for enlightening me on how to check for misfires. I will do that today.

I had the altitude set at 0, I live at the coast. I will take it out of "use atp as analog" mode.

I'll go make another log and make sure to keep an eye on the coolant temp, and log the other parameters you suggested.

thank you

sublime42o

Well, I'm having a connection problem again so I can't log anything. The Palm states that there is a connection, but no parameters are shown. I tried restarting the car and palm multiple times, and reconnecting several times, to no avail. Any idea what could cause this?

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

What kind of sample rate (upper left corner) do you get when this happens?
What Palm are you using?

sublime42o

sample rate around 8 S/sec

I'm using a supra brand palm with OS v. 3.5.2

It's worked fine up until the other day when it said it was connect but didnt give any data. It worked fine the next day, now its not working again.

sublime42o

Also, I am definitely getting a bit into boost while revving, I can hear the turbo spool a tiny bit, but I can definitely hear the BOV. Maybe my pressure sensor is busted? Or I need to adjust my BOV?

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

Supra brand? As in the car? Never heard of it. There are only 5 or 6 companies that make Palm OS PDAs. "Supra" isn't one of them. Unless you had Supra on the brain and meant Sony. Whats the model number?

Just reving it, I don't expect to see boost as there is no load on the engine.

I didn't mean for my post to be condesending, but it was meant to be "real" and honest. The Rtek 2.0 has the ability to blow your motor to bits if improper adjustments are made. I doubt either of us want to see that happen. But when you seem not to be familiar with some of the basics, I can't help but think about the trouble you could get yourself into with the 2.0.

Lets just say you have a mighty steep learning curve ahead of you. Hopefully we can get to the bottom of things.

sublime42o

I've attached a pic of the palm... its definitely supra brand....

I'm well aware of the damage I could do to the car using the rtek. I'm sure I know a lot more than you think, but there is definitely a lot I do not know. Lucky for me I'm a very quick learner. Thank you for helping me out

I'm going to do a compression test coming up here in a few minutes, I'll post the results.

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

Well thats a first for me. Never heard of that "brand". It's called a Supra eKey, but its a rebranded Palm V manufactured by Palm/3com.

sublime42o

Well.... I have a stuck apex seal. With 7k miles on a rebuild..... that sucks for me. I'm going to try and lube it up real good and let it sit in oil over night to see if itll loosen up any... wish me luck....

Henrik

Well that sucks. It would explain the weird readings though. Curious: how was it determined that you have a stuck seal?

-Henrik

sublime42o

I took off the exhaust manifold, and turned the motor by hand until I could feel each apex seal one by one through the exhaust port. 2 of them have a little spring to them and one of them is dead stiff. I've tried soaking it in oil and sprayin it down with carb cleaner.... but its seems pretty stuck.