If you ever been over to teamfc3s they have a good write up on timing and what popular 'tuners' use for splits


http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=41915

 

I'm not sure what you are asking. MAP based timing mode and maxing the AFM are apples and oranges.

MAP Based timing is a solution to the fact that in stock form, the ECU was at the limit of the timing table at 9 psi so there was no way to manipulate timing between 10 and 14.

Maxing the AFM is an airflow problem.

 

turbo2ltr, I did not follow the sticky exactly. I will do it again. I am not complaining because my car is still gettting put together. I just noticed I could not make any perm changes to my idle mixture. I only gave it one minutes worth of time. THis weekend I should have everything together and will update.

Will there be new instructions on the 2.1 version?
Thanks
C-

 

The manual has been posted for a while now. Its on our site. Click the RX7 button at the top and scroll to the bottom

 

Thank you. I must have looked right over it.
C-

 

This is what I have so far for some kind of base map that I plan on using. I kinda went off some other base maps that I found from BDC, Powerfc, Wolf that I thought would be ok for me. I will be hitting up the dyno fairly shortly after I pick up some 1000's from Keith @ KGparts.


Take a look at the map and tell me what you think. If I'm totally off please let me know. I did 15 degrees advanced @ 14psi just in case of a little bit of overboost.

Yeah sorry the map is in Word. I haven't reloaded Excel back on the PC.


Edit: Disclaimer: If you use this map on your own car and you blow your **** up driving around town it not my fault. This is a base map I might be using just to work off.

 

Double post.. I forgot to add that timing values @ 4096 should be the same.

 

i found out my problem.. it wasnt my T3, just user error.. i didnt realize there was more than 10 fuel bars LOL!

anyway, transferred my old tune and holy crap no hesitation!! even the knock retard i was getting at staging is gone.. im so happy, today was the first day since buying the car ive ever driven it at 0psi and not hesitated! I cant wait to tune it tomorrow!!

 

so I shouldn't stress to much about my Tungsten T3 not working correctly ? Hey gxl90rx7 would you maybe keep me posted on how well your Palm is working so I'll know if I should keep it or get a different one ? Thanks

 

Boost it whats for dinner, I detonated a long time ago a couple months after I got the 2.0 and blew up my motor hence my push for boost based timing.

95nracer, I am using the 720/720 right now, but I might have to change to the 550/720 once i turn up my boost more.

GXL90rx7, I am using the T3 also and it is a piece of crap for tuning.

Roen, check out my other threads they go ino lots of detail on the advantages of boost based timing over load based.

 

the main problem for me is it randomly disconnects briefly every once in while. i think it is because of the flimsy cable connector. if i were you, i would hold onto it and see how it works for you when you get 2.1. you can always put it up on ebay or something

 

I just want to know what stage BNR you're running and at max power, what your AFM percentage is.

 

Let me tell you, you need a good 2-3 hours to remap the timing settings! LoL.. I didn't even have time to even finish. My batteries died on my Palm half way through the split timing map, but I was able to do the lead timing. I'll be able to finish up tonight.




It would make it easier if you could make changes away from the car.

 

We are looking into it. Thats why we put up the poll about the offline map editing.

 

That's probably what I'll do. Wait and see if mine has the same problem or not and go from there. Thanks

 

Do u really need to have inputs for settings @ 5120 around the -25 mark.
and also what about @ 1024 and 14.

Just trying to understand more

I can see u pull timing by 1 degree after 9
Also, how do u determine to pull timing instead of add fuel?

 

After doing the map last night I know I need to make another chart. I'm missing 16psi, the boost/vacuum threshold is 1inhg/1psi, I can eliminate alot of my boost psi numbers from my original chart. I will make my vac and psi numbers resemble what is shown on the RTEK. My split map I have at 15 at low vac then ramp down to 11 at the boost/vac threshold.


You can probably leave 14psi @ 1024 blank, but I wanted my timing to ramp up.


As far as deciding if you need to pull timing or add fuel, I think thats where you need a good Rotary tuner to help with that aspect. From reading around using a egt gauge along with a good wideband will help. I guess they just know when to pull or add timing, by listening, looking at egt temps. I'm still learning, but when I'm reading around alot of people are really secretive about there timing.


For the most part I see alot of people with stock to street ports using 20 degrees advanced @ 10psi and 15 @ 15psi, ramp up from there to boost/vac threshold. Vac at 40-42 advanced @ high rpm then ramp down to boost/vac threshold to around 30-32 advanced @ 0psi or I think its 1inhg.


Hopefully I can get on the dyno soon to help verify my numbers.


If someone has a suggestion please post up!! I'll work on another chart that resembles what shows on my RTEK tonight.

 

the timing map im using goes something like this:

leading:
100% load: 5 10 20
50% load: 10 15 27
0% load: 14 30 37
RPM: 0 4k 7k

split:
100% load: 17 16 15
50% load: 9 7 7
0% load: 0 0 0
RPM: 0 4k 7k

rows are load, columns rpm, blended in between. im only running wastegate boost right now, so 100% load is about 8-9 psi. i think you basically want your timing to be the most retarded and biggest split at the points where are high load (boost) and low rpm. I keep that same split all the way across to max boost, max rpm. then at low loads, 0 or negaive split, and 30+ deg timing. And the 20 deg for 10psi, minus a degree per psi rule mentioned earlier. then blend everywhere inbetween.

i got my fuel map tuned decently this morning, ive been boosting the hell out of it all day no problems. the 2.1 is freakin awesome

 

Here are my newer maps. So far I think the car feels great! I'm still working on it.



Let me know what you guys think.

 

was looking at your leading map...its odd how your timing goes.


19,17,16,16,17....

 

well i am gald to see that i was atleast close in thought about what your timing ideas were. meaning i had an idea of what would work persay but didnt know for sure but your map looks alot like what i hand drew out.

 

That is one area I need to work on. Are you talking about the low rpm boost/vac transition area

 

yeah

 

why do you have so much split in vacuum? are there any advantages? from the factory mazda usually had near 0 and even negative split in those areas. and how did you save it in that table format, or did you just manually copy the values?

 

Do you think it would be better if I started with alot less then ramp up a little towards boost? I figured just to leave it, because I don't think its going to hurt anything down there. Unless I can gain some torque giving it more split down low. I definetly wanted to stay above 10 in boost for now. I don't think I'll be messing around to much with split though.


I just manually copied the values over to a table that I quickly made up. I think I'm still missing one row, but its very easy to mesh another towards the bottom. Its definetly easier for me to look at a chart so I can see the whole thing.

Some good info on split timing.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...59#post5092459


Edit: I might try running less split in vac and see how it does. Hopefully in the next couple of days I can head out and get some logs in.