RickRx

I have 82 base, S5/S4 TII, granny'd, bnr stage 2,2 1/2 fmic, 3'' front to back exhaust,safc etc. I'm trying to decide on the ecu for. I have the 1.5 already but talking to brian he recommended 720/720 injectors so I will need a ecu upgrade.

My question is would it be hurting my setup only going with a 1.8 or should I get the 2.1? Money is not an issue but at the same time I'm installing and tuning a haltech e8 into my s5 tII by myself for the first time ready to pop some motors. To the users of the 2.0 and 2.1 I have already bought a palmIIIxe in anticipation for the 2.1 How hard would it be to get this car going? Haltech hard or a couple buttons hard?

The reason I ask is I would rather upgrade to the 1.8 and retune my safc (since it ran great with the stock turbo and is the easy way out and I can put more thought into the haltech) but if I will do more harm I will definitely upgrade to the 2.1

Thanks for any help I'm a one man gang without enough hours in a day getting my R's ready for transport.

rogrx7

iTrader: (11)

My opinion is that the 1.5, 1.7, and 1.8 are for rx7 owners who have a close to stock setup with minor upgrades and are cranking up the boost a little without the use of "tricking" the ecu. They also helps with other little annoying issues like flooding and aws.

Going 1.8 with a BNR and your other mods will pop your motor with out the aid of fuel adjustments.


Get the car going with the 2.0/2.1 is not an issue since the upgrade basically comes with the stock mazda maps. As long as you have some type of device to monitor the vitals (IE:Wideband or EGT) you will be fine. from there you can make adjustments to the fuel map. The advantage over the SAFC is that the SAFC won't pull time nor will it adjust splits. The advantage over the haltech in no need for laptops or splicing wires. You can watch your parameters via PDA.



The 2.1 will give you more control over the ecu than the Safc. Using the Safc and 1.8 together is like trying to simulate the 2.1 with like 1/4 of the features.

RickRx

Oh see I did not know it would come ready to get the car started. I thought you had to set the timing and other features on the pda before you got the car running.

I am using the haltech wideband (lc-1) would you recommend getting a egt as well for the rtek since I have both with the haltech? Or should I be fine with the wideband, I hear people saying something about tuning the split with a egt. But I've only tuned via wideband and still need to learn a egt.

Any problems using the palmIIIxe I need to know about? Thanks a bunch

RickRx

with my setup should I also use the safc in combo with the 2.1? thanks

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

The safc wouldn't be needed if you have 2.1...

Minnionator

as said- no, there is no reason to use any extra device if youve got the 2.1

the 2.1 is acts almost like a standalone, has many, many programmable parameters.

you dont need to do any baseline tuning or setup to JUST get it running like you do with a haltech.

to install it and get it working correctly, remove all your haltech stuff, and re-install the modified 2.1 ECU. essentially it should look like stock, except you will have a PDA attached to it to tune with. you dont need to make a new harness, or install other weird boxes here n there. remove all the old crap, and basically go back to stock.

this is why many ppl like the 2.1 over standalone, because you dont have to re-wire everything and make custom mounts, cooling fans, etc for aftermarket stuff. just plug the modified ECU into where the stock one was and youre done.

if you have a S-AFC, sell it. it is useless with the 2.1, seeing as the 2.1 can accomplish anything and everything the S-AFC can, and do it 5 times better. comprende?