peterstarlet

im planing on building a 13b with i hope some where close to 300hp..also hoping to be in the 10-11 second range in the 1/4 mile

im currently running a t2 trans in my car..

i have not been to the track with the car and dont really know how this trans will performe for drag raceing..

i have read alot of differnt things on this tranny...some people say that the internals arnt that strong and the gear ratios arnt all that great...i was hoping to get some good info from guys who actually use one or have a better trans to use..

would the next best thing be a t5 swap??

i dont have tons of money to buy the best just looking for a good tranny that will perform well..

thanks so much for any advice..

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

pretty sure i remember someone going 8's on the t2 trans, but 300 hp will be like cake. 5-600 thats when youll start having trans issues, but youll prob have rearend/axle issues first

peterstarlet

looks like i will be using the t2 trans in that case..i hopeing to have a na 13b pp motor built and nitrousjust for the track...i would like to run in the 11 secind range for now.. my car has a shortened 8.8 and coil overs..the back half of the car is all framed out with latter bars..

i think it should hook up good with 10" inch slicks

peterstarlet

is there any mods to make that tranny shift better?? cut gears? i need all the help i can get..

if so is there some one you guys recomend to do the tranny work??

thanks so much!!

ultimatejay

iTrader: (1)

You can take the trans to Liberty gears and they can face plate it and make stronger input and output shaft. It all depends on how much you want to spend. I went three years on my stock tII trans without problems.

peterstarlet

ya i might leave it stock until it fails me.. i will just have to practice my shifting , i have seen fast cars lose because of a slow shifter.. alot of time can be made up with quick shifts..

thanks guys

ArmyOfOne

iTrader: (12)

Make sure you are using as good flywheel, get the ring gear welded on, and I recommend using the 4 puck sinterd iron clutch. It's a bit lighter than the six puck and holds torque good enough for lighter cars. If it gets too heavy then it takes longer to get into the next gear.

peterstarlet

thanks for that info!

rXc3|\|tR1c

PP and nitrous eh... I foresee shifting issues at high rpm without the aforementioned face plating , and I'm talking basically anything over 8g's. Maybe look at a Supra box (W58)? What diff gears you running?

Tone

peterstarlet

ya i know what your saying about the nitrious and pp...i might be rethinking that..

i have an 8.8 rear end but at this point i dont know what ratios are in it..i bought the car with it in there already.. so when the rebuild happens over this winter then i will take the rear apart and see whats going on in there..

just trying to gather as much info so i can get it close to right the first time..

thanks so much on all your help!

beefcake

although you could do what i have and grind back your syncro teeth in your t2 box, ive had very minimal lockout high rpm shifts 9000 ~ 9500 , its also 450~500 hp , no breakages yet .
Have your tailshaft and unis balanced to a poofteenth , vibration kills shifting .
I also use a 85/140 competition Motul gear oil and some friction modifier additive as well

peterstarlet

that sounds like what i will do.i have some experiance in cutting motorcycle trannies so thats the route i will be going for now.. thanks so much!