So first pass since new clutch set up and boost controller went 6.85 with 22psi. A tad quicker than ever before but with 2-3psi less and hot humid weather. So I was happy. No more cut in 1st gear by running 12gal fuel. No clutch slip and best 60 ever, 1.49! Turned the boost up to 28 but also turned down the limiter to 8500 (long story). Left the line lock off by mistake so rolled thru the burn out which killed my launch with bad tire spin. Also hit the limiter in each gear but went 6.9. Put the limiter back up to 9k and let it cool down. Lined up, great burn out but when I rolled out of the burn out and put the clutch in and let off throttle car stalled. Went to hit the key and car jump foward? Like I didnt have the clutch in? Tranny was stuck solid! Car was in neutral but would still jump foward when ignition was hit. Had the guy push on the car and finally got it in 1st gear. Hit the key and it would jump foward. Got it started doing this and just drove down the track in 1st gear and about half way it freed up so the clutch would work. So I can use the clutch as normal now but bad grinding between shifts. I was at first afraid the the pilot bearing was bad and it locked the tranny but now wondering if its just a toasted tranny? Give me your thoughts? Sorry if this sounds long and crazy but got home at midnight and started hitting the corona's

 

haha its raining for you at the moment , could be the pilot bearing, or the hydraulics, or a shagged box. Not a simple explanation for that one ,
I had the same thing with my car a few months ago, it was my master cyl for the clutch bypassing internally .
But yours could be anything , pilot bearing stuck will keep the input shaft spinning , hydraulics can loose gear selection and pedal hight, and the box can be a cunty box with flogged out bearings , the best thing i could suggest is to invest in more corona beers and drink more before you find out how much this will cost to fix

 

not a bad idea...

I will just pull it and hope the pilot didnt not screw my e shaft! I did loose pedal height. Wondering if it could be a combo of things, like pilot bad then screwed the tranny? Bad grinds in every gear and pedal height dropped to half?

Oh, and I love the spec II controller. It held the boost solid in each geat. Much better than my old style.

 

what clutch did you put in

 

XT PP with another unsprung 6 puck. My first thought was the P plate was stuck to the disk.

 

Bent fork?

 

clutch got stuck to flywheel and pressure plate....after doing the burn out it happened.....try using a 4 puck or 3 puck clutch.

 

Thought of that but why the loss in clutch pedal now and why the grinding?

Its all a guessing game and I will let ya know who the winner is soon,

 

caz it happened to me twice

 

****... this kit had 15 miles and 2 passes on it.

 

**** i did two burn outs infront of my shop and that was it

 

So I also didnt mention I removed my race plugs after that night and found the rear trailing plug was un fired, my coil is bad. How much did that hurt me?

 

rear trailing coil was cracked? Is this common with age or can this be from another problem? Running msd only on leading .

 

ive seen fc coils go **** corroding and cracking but i have no experience with fd coils, but going on the fact that they are just as old now you could hazard a guess its just **** itself becuase its old , id ask around in the circiut racing forum section, as those guys would i suppose be working the coils hotter for longer and if its gonna fail it will be in those situations .

As far as loosing time i dont think it would have lost you much if any time at all . We have just set up our other car in our drag team with a single magneto running on leading only , 13bpptt yeh yeh

 

Sorry to hear bro. Did you try the car since its cooled?

 

Yeah. Something tranny-clutch is wrong. Since I just did a clutch install I am guessing this is related but just not sure why the grinding. HAve another tranny local I am picking up so maybe in the next couple weeks I will pull it. I dont plan to go back out till it starts to cool down some.

 

so the clutch was stuck to both PPlate and flywheel. I am pretty sure the cause was the hydraulics. Unless the after effect hurt the hydraulics but doubt it. So new clutch kit, resurface flywheel, new hydraulics and I should be good for the next couple passes..

 

good luck

 

Thanks, I must say the current motor has been strongest part of this car, I guess I did a good job!

So ACT is going to redue my kit for free. Thats why I like them , they stand behind there stuff and this is not even there fault most likely. Unlike shitty *** SPEC, they would be looking for every way out to keep from covering it under warranty.

 

15 miles on your new clutch? It wasn't bed in and that will be part of the reason it slipped and welded itself together. You should bed it in for at least 100miles before you put full load through it. You're lucky yours wasn't bad, the last one we slipped welded itself so much we had to remove the disk with a hammer and pry bar, even then it left half the material on the flywheel. Yours has probably done the same to a lesser degree and may now be slow to disengage.

 

I break em in on the way to the track with a couple big slips. This is strait from ACT tech guy "Dean". Has always worked before for me. I am pretty sure 99.9% my issue is the clutch hydraulics.

 

Did the pedal feel spongy? I just put a ACT HDR6 in my car, I LOVE IT! Best I ever bought.

 

Mine has always been semi stiff. This is my 4th 6 puck ACT disk, 2nd P-plate in 2 years.. I am on the extreme plate so its stiffer than the HD one.

 

Maybe the clutch got the hydraulics hot and boiled the fluid out....seen that happen before.

 

get rid of the six puck, four or three is good. no more problems, remember i said it in post #7